Wall-mounted toilet under window?

13 years ago

The toilet in my microscopic powder room is under the window, and there is no other possible configuration of the room. I would like to replace the toilet with a wall-mounted model to gain 7" or so of space, but I do not know if that is possible structurally under a load-bearing exterior 4" wall. The installation photos I've seen have included extra studs above the frame around the tank. Anyone know?

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Comments (6)

lazypup
13 years ago
the wall bracket and drain will not fit in a 4" wall
palimpsest
13 years ago
There is a Geberit Carrier for a standard 2x4 construction. The issue I think you would have is no room for insulation in the wall and then having water right against it. This would create a cold spot in the bathroom and I would imagine it could freeze in some locations. (?)

Here is a link that might be useful: Geberit Tank and carrier
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bill_g_web
13 years ago
Besides the temperature issue, (a cold outside wall that could result in pipe freezing), would be how far down the window is placed relative to the floor. Looks like the Geberit needs at least 44" of wall.

The first link is the spec sheet for the unit, the second is the main link to the info on the unit, both at Geberit's web site.

http://www.geberit.us/CompleteDrawings/RI111-728-00-1.pdf

http://www.geberit.us/catalog/catalogs.php?PartNum=111.728.00.1

Other than these things, I don't know see why the wall would'nt be strong enough to support the toilet or why you couldn't beef it up with some creative framing to make sure it's strong enough.
jillalamedat
Original Author
13 years ago
Thanks; I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area so freezing pipes aren't an issue. The window is 49" above the floor so I think we're OK there too. Our house was built in the days when a 2x4 was actually 2"x4", so the tanks built for 2x4 framing should have plenty of room (I think Toto has one too, although I'm leaning toward the Geberit tank with the Toto Aquia toilet).

Apparently the current toilet's drain pipe is at a strange angle so my DH is not sure we'd be able to tie in the new drain. I suspect that he just thinks the wall-hung toilets are weird looking and doesn't want one; I'm sure the professionals could make it work as long as it's not a code violation. And I know he would come to appreciate the fact that we'd actually have room for an elongated bowl!

Thanks for the info, Pal and Bill!
davidro1
13 years ago
jill:
1/ it sounds to me like this will work, since the window is high enough.

2/ There being a big window in the wall, don't worry a lot about what is "possible structurally under a load-bearing exterior 4" wall" because someone before you has already done the work to get whatever structural reinforcing was necessary to allow the window in the first place. The question is best when reworded: the window have already been "framed" and you want to put some thingie between studs, under the window. A plumbing forum is not the place to ask this. When you open the wall, underneath the window you will see studs but know this: they are not the studs that hold the building up; they happen to be the same size and spacing as all the other studs everywhere else, but this was done in order to remain standardized, not to hold the roof up. Of course you may wish to have all this confirmed by a couple other people including real on-site visitors. The remodeling forum might be a good place to go to.

3/ To put a wall carrier under the window might mean that you move a stud over by an inch or two. No big deal, not at all. Under the window you could also replace them with smaller ones and have more room for some continuous insulation (because you want to reduce air, wind, cold from coming in). Take this to the remodeling forum.

-

Plumbing.

The drain pipe "angle" is also no big deal.

One day you can post again with a link to a photo on the internet, to get tips where to cut and which fitting to buy to connect to the drain.

One of the numerous advantages of a wall hung toilet with an in-wall carrier is that you can have a vented drain instead of a long S trap drain. (b.t.w., all toilets are designed to work on S trap drain configurations, so it will be OK either way, i.e. with or without a real vent or an AAV vent.) The toilet wall carrier has a drain : you could connect it to a vented drain line (e.g. using a real vent or an AAV (search "AAV").) Just one thing to know. Good to know. When it comes time to connect the carrier, you could remind the plumber of this.

About the elongated bowl: people get used to the bowl size they use all the time, so I would urge you not give in to the impluse to try to find the largest bowl possible. Any reasonable size bowl will be fine, if it's larger than the toilet you currently have.

Hth
Kaila Compton
last year
Hi- don't know if you will see this 11 years later but I have the same issues in an SF victorian. What solution did you end up using? Thanks!