(1) When I replant the tomatoes, how deep should I plant? Since I didn't prep the underlying clay, should I dig that out and add something to it (compost, e.g.,) before replanting the tomatoes? Plant them so most all of any exposed stem is buried. Either deep holes or trench them in. More digging sure can't hurt but it would be easier to just add more compost and mix it in to the top so you are working with a good 8-10" of new. Let the worms do the work of turning it in. (2) I've got a 2' fence flush against the bed but something is getting in and eating the strawberries. There's no obvious tracks in the soil, could it just be bugs? As mention - slugs snails and many other possibilities. Move them to a container for the good of all issues. (3) Do I need to move the strawberries? There's 3 plants, I'm told the yield will be low the first year, I'm considering moving them to a trough this year and then to their own bed next year. 3 plants won't give you much yield. Not even a small handful of berries. Honestly not worth planting so few plants. Put them in a pot and plan to plant many more next year in a larger container. (4) The row of scallions and row of carrots have sprouted, I planted densely planning to thin - when should I thin and by how much at first? Growing up we didn't thin until we could at least discern which plants were doing better. I'm nowhere near that point but since I planted so densely I'd want to make sure I thin on time Since this is such a small bed and sounds like it is heavily over-planted already if you want any carrots at all you will have to thin aggressively. Begin thinning as soon as the seedlings are large enough to ID individual plants - usually 3/4-1" tall. Do a follow up thinning when they are 2-3" tall and again until they are approx. 3" apart. (5) I'm pretty sure this soil mix is only good for about 60-90 days and I'm not sure what I need to do then. Dig it out and replace it? Add something to it? Not at all, you just keep mixing in more compost and nutrient supplements. You will not be able to count on this new soil for sufficient nutrients without you adding supplements. There is no active soil micro-herd yet to convert the compost to nutrient forms. (6) Assuming our garden is successful (so far, so good, I've maintained it minimally) we plan to expand next year. What should I do with the soil this summer/fall, if anything? Raised beds again is what we'd prefer. Just build more of the same or my personal preference is 3' wide and long as you have room for. It's a more efficient use of space and provides easier access. 2x a year additions of lots of fresh quality compost. If you can get some well-aged manure for adding in the fall - great. otherwise buy several bags of composted manure now while the garden centers have them and add them in the fall. Good luck with your garden. Dave

Mix up some shellac thinner (denatured alcohol) and lacquer thinner....3 parts of the alcohol to 1 part lacquer thinner. Take the bed apart, so you can lay the head and foot board down so the surface is horizontal, then brush some of the mixture on the whole surface, lay it on heavily and let it sit. the finish will melt and sort of flow together. If it's really thick and heavily checked, you may have to brush it out....but try just laying it on with a brush and letting it dry. There was someone who used to post on this forum who would go ballistic whenever I mentioned doing this, but try it....it works! Linda C

Exactly what I was saying about old farmhouses and the back porch kitchen, LOL! I am looking at this house and thinking to myself.......1915? It could be, but it looks way older than that. It's the same style my house is, and mine has the 'ell' and my original kitchen is still where the back of the ell is. My house dates to 1820something. In my county, they used to put all old houses at an arbitrary date. They seemed to have stopped doing that and now just say old. Thanks for the link generic123. Yes, I know pretty closely where this house is located. Nice area, we have relatives who have a home nearby......my husband's old family farmhouse, but the farm is still intact! Beautiful home too, really beautiful!!!!! and it looks like the present owners have been very kind to it. I suspect there may be more fireplace stacks in this house, with the fireboxes covered over with wall. We have eight in our house. One for every major room. If it was actually built in 1915, maybe there wouldn't be, but there would have been furnace runs for a coal furnace or evidence at one time of steam heat or gas or coal grates in fireplaces in each room. I wonder how well a heat pump works in a house this size in Ohio? Or what the electric bill looks like? If you are at all serious about a residence, always look at utility bill histories. We finally got main gas through our rural area, and the first thing we did was get off electric heat and on to gas.

I grew up sleeping on a 3/4 size antique bed... I used it in a spare room for many years. It was fine for me as a teen and comfortable enough that a friend of mine once slept in it for 6 months. It was ok for two adults for an overnight.. but I wouldnt want to share it with a mate for an extended time. What I would be most concerned about is the length-- many 3/4 beds are shorter than normal.