It really depends on what you want the misters to do. Do you want them to act as a cooling mechanism to cool down the entire greenhouse? (flash evaporation). If that is the case, then you will need to set them along the entire length of the GH for an even distribution. Depending on the humidity inside the GH, the mist could all evaporate before any of them even touch the plants. This is generally the goal, as the idea is to cool down the GH without getting the plants wet. The misters will also add humidity to the GH interior. However, with adequate ventilation the moisture would be drawn out along with the warm air and replaced by outside air. This would require frequent mister activation to keep the humidity up. Under certain conditions in the GH, the humidity could be high enough that not all of the mist can evaporate and will eventually land on the plants. Unless an orchid is in an open mount or empty slat basket, they would not appreciate being directly in the path of misting/sprinkler systems. Most orchid roots need a dry period in between watering and the frequent exposure to water from the mister/sprinkler would prevent this from happening. **This is just based on the typical frequency of mister activations which could be anywhere from every 10 minutes to every 2 hours - or maybe even continuous operation for several hours. If you mist less frequently, then it might not be a problem.**

Thanks for the responses so far. Our local Lowes had the Kitchenaid KFIS27CXMS right next to the Samsung 298 model (w/2 icemakers) so my wife and I were able to compare the layout of both models. The Samsung seemed slightly more refined and elegant in the inside. All else being equal, we’d probably choose the Samsung, but it looks like we’ll be getting the Kitchenaid because the dispenser is more child friendly. We have a 2 year old and another one on the way. Here’s a summary of the physical differences: The dispenser on the Kitchenaid is about 6 inches higher on the Samsung. See below: The Kitchenaid has two paddles in the dispenser (one of water and one for ice). You press the glass against one paddle to receive ice, then move the glass to the other dispenser for water. The Samsung has a single paddle. You press a button above the dispenser to change from ice to water. Since the Samsung is already six inches taller, a person needs to be able to reach an additional six inches to press the button. This means that an additional 12 inches is needed to operate the Samsung. The drawers on the Samsung pull out further than the Kitchenaid for both the freezer and the snack tray. I’d say that the ergonomics on the Samsung are slightly better here. In the two photos below, the Kitchenaid is in the front and left, and the Samsung is in the rear and right. The photos below are a little misleading because the Samsung base is a little further out already. Above: Kitchenaid is in the foreground. Samsung is in the background. Above: Kitchenaid is left; Samsung is right. I thought that the Kitchenaid freezer drawers looked a little more industrial and that the Samsung looked a little more elegant. The Samsung has a single auto pull-out tray with an ice tray, while the Kitchen has two separate trays. The ice scoop in the Samsung is a nice touch, though I have read a complaint that ice sometimes gets raked out of the tray and onto the floor when the drawer is opened. Ice makers: On both models, the ice maker for the dispenser is on the top left ceiling of the refrigerator. However, the KA stores the ice in a removable container in the door, while the Samsung stores the ice in a removable container as part of the ice maker (top left ceiling of the refrigerator). Above: Kitchenaid ice tray in the Open position. Above: Kitchenaid ice tray removed. Above: Samsung ice tray partially removed. Above: Samsung ice tray removed. The KA tray seems larger, but it’s hard to quantify. The container is significantly easier to access and remove on the Kitchenaid. However, the location of the container on the Kitchenaid means that it uses up most of the shelf space on the left door, though the Samsung’s dispenser still takes up roughly half of the door too. The Samsung uses up a bit more space on the top interior shelf. The size of the container seems (only) slightly larger in the Kitchenaid. I wonder if one produces ice faster than the other. Like I mentioned in my first post, I’ve seen several complaints that the Samsung’s icemaker’s capacity was too low. I wonder whether the complaints were driven by the container being too small, or whether the ice maker produced ice so slowly that it couldn’t keep up with demand regardless of the size of the container. The Kitchenaid’s container doesn’t seem much bigger, but maybe it refills it faster. Another complaint that I read somewhere about the KA is that the left door doesn’t stay open. I did confirm this, though it seems to be only a minor annoyance. The Samsung has only three large shelves in the right door, while the KA has four shelves of medium height. I’d prefer to have the fourth shelf of the kitchenaid.

>>>"1) I will have the ice maker installed. With the bottom freezer basket being wire instead of solid, if an ice cube fell out of the ice bin where would it end up?"In my freezer, it would wind up on top of something else. My freezer is usually pretty full. If you have an otherwise empty freezer, I suppose an ice cube could fall through the baskets to the floor. Does not seem likely as the wire bail/arm thingie projects down in side the ice bucket. I have not hooked up the ice maker so I'm not able to comment further. >>>"2) Does your freezer drawer extend out beyond the open french door? Whirlpool Customer Service says that depth with freezer drawer open information is "not available" for the KBFS20EVMS. I realize your refrigerator is 33" and I am looking at 36", but I suspect a wider freezer drawer would not open further than the one you have."Well, actually, mine will project out further than with a KBFS20 because mine is standard depth, not counter depth. As I pointed out in your thread, the CD model will only project out about 18 or 20 inches. The KBFS22 model that I have is several inches deeper to there is more room freezer drawerr. With a CD model, the drawer will project out about as far as the larger door. >>>"Any negatives you have noticed with wire rather than solid freezer basket?"Had not given it any thought but, now that you mention it, I think a solid basket (inner drawer?) might hold the cold a bit better, as with a chest freezer. On the other hand, I think wire baskets may give better air flow for more rapid cooldowns and more even temps throughout the compartment.

OK, if there's one thing I've spent a lot of time doing it's treating books for problems, including the dreaded mildew. One thing that I know is freezing does nothing for mildew. If it did the books I am currently bringing in from dry, but below 0F storage would be in tip top shape, and it just ain't so, alas. There is some research that shows that many of the environmental things that we do to try and treat a mold infestation can actually prod resting spores to come alive and get busy. Fungi have been with us forever, and I believe they will outlast us. But here's what you can do for books with some mildew issues. First, you have to accept that bringing books with mildew into your house will put all your other books at somewhat higher risk. It's a trade-ff, and a difficult one to make. Some people won't have it; some people quarantine the mildewed ones, permanently. My choice is to do what I can to clean them very well and then accept that I will have to monitor not only them but all the others and proactively manage my indoor environment as best I can, forever. Here's how to get them cleaned up: Mildew suppression and removal can be considered something of an emergency, so if you are going to do something about it, it must be started at once. (When I have had to deal with an outbreak, all other household work stops, and DH resigns himself to sandwiches until it's done. It can be hard, intense work if you have a big problem.) First, they must have the humidity lowered before being cleaned in order to avoid rubbing the active mildew colonies into the crevices on the surfaces. This is most easily done using a dehumidifier in a detached, closed room. (The dehu will have to thoroughly cleaned afterward.) Lowering the humidity to 40% would be a good target if you can do it in a day or so. Next best for drying the books is out of doors on a dry, breezy day away from your house and open windows to your house. Fast changes in humidity are hard on books and can create problems of their own, but mildew removal is the first, most urgent, concern. After the books are dry, or at least surface dry, take barely damp, cut-up squares of paper towels and brushing in only one direction (away from your face and away from the spine), lightly brush the mildew or efflorences off. The purpose of this step is to do a quick removal of the gross contamination and arrest any further development. Be prepared to use a lot of towels and try not to wipe "cleaner areas" with a soiled section. Another way to do this is to vacuum the books with a clean upholstery brush, BUT, this has the potential to seriously contaminate your vacuum and then spew book-mildew spores out every time you use it ever afterward. I have solved this by having a special, dedicated, true-HEPA museum vacuum that I only use on books, and can disassemble completely for cleaning. I live with nearly 7,000 books so it's an important cleaning tool for me, but probably not so important for others. Simple hand wiping, however, will do as good a job, and leave your vacuum safe. If you do use a vac, you will need to use it carefully to avoid damaging the books or sucking loose pieces of pages or the dust jackets in. (BTW, remove any dust jackets and treat them separately.) It's also a good idea to wash any brushes and dry them completely between days of work, if it extends over more than one day. But you're not done now. You still need to expose the books to sunlight for a few hours. Of course sunlight can fade bindings, so this has to be controlled carefully. But a few hours of good strong sun will do wonders to kill many of the remaining spores that you can't see. After the sunbath, and still working outside on trestle tables covered with clean sheets, I go on to the next phase of the cleaning. What I do next is to wipe the covers down with grain alcohol, which will kill even more of the remaining spores, without in my experience, doing much or any damage. Obviously, each book has to be carefully tested to make sure the alcohol won't damage the covers, but I rarely find it does. I know some people have used isopropyl (rubbing alcohol), but I've had many more bleeding and damage problems with that than with grain alcohol. I get grain alcohol (which is not for consumer sale in NY), by going across state lines and purchasing it from Vermont State Liquor Stores. (I have been told that in some states in can be bought in ordinary liquor stores or in pharmacies.) Even there it has become more difficult to get because it is so damaging to drink. I have to sign a statement that I am using it for scientific or experimental purposes; I just state I am using it to clean books. I got the idea of using the grain alcohol from studying both the solinet and palimpsest preservation boards. They suggested using cut-up squares of paper towels saturated in grain alcohol and kept in zip-lock bags. My process is to slice a roll of Select-a-size Bounty in half or thirds and then use the pieces. I have a small container with a siphoning laboratory top that allows me to just tap and draw up the alcohol. I wipe the entire cover surface (from spine to edge) discarding the little towels as soon as they look dirty. (I wind up standing in a little snow storm of squares of discarded towel if I'm doing a big project outdoors. The alcohol-saturated towels must be thoroughly air-dried before being discarded in the trash can in order to avoid spontaneous combustion, so I just drop them to the ground and then collect them in batches.) After I've done the spine and covers, I open the book and do the turn-over of the cover, and sometimes the end paper and free fly leaf in the gutter. Then I stand the book upright on a clean surface to air and finish drying while I go on to the next one. I work carefully so that I am cleaning and dusting down wind, and have a freshly sheeted table upwind for the ones that have been wiped. It's not the same as a hospital operating field, but the principle is the same: pick-up from table with "dirty" books, clean in the air holding the book , then set it down on the clean surface. After the first table has been done, I pack the books loosely in clean liquor boxes and bring them indoors to a room where I continue to dehu them down to very, very, dry. I keep the clean liquor boxes shut-up away from the cleaning operation until needed so as not to be putting cleaned books in boxes that have been exposed to air-borne spores disturbed in the wiping operations. I make sure to wash my hands and change clothes before handling the cleaned books. The purpose of this multi-step process (drying, physical removal, UV exposure, and alcohol wiping) is to use a series of suppressant techniques to increase the effectiveness of the "kill", kind of like using a broad-spectrum antibiotic when you're sick. You want to demoralize as many different resistant beasties as you can. It is a lot of work, but when the other option is to discard the books, I prefer it. After your books are clean, and have had additional drying then I would re-inspect and see if they seem OK for being shelved with the others. If in doubt keep them separate for a season and see how they do. But having had a mildew problem you are now more or less obliged to keep indoor humidity under rigid control forever more. If you don't, you risk the problem coming back, and worse, further extending itself. Pay attention to places within your house that are relatively more or less affected by increased ambient humidity and make decisions about where to store books based on those factors. I keep my most valuable books stored on the second floor because it stays dryer during the hot summer months. I have a couple of dozen of those small max-min hygrometers and I check on them every day to monitor conditions. I do not have a/c, which would make this problem much less onerous. As for the various book-eating and book-burrowing pests, freezing might destroy them and if I found an active infestation, that would be my first choice. Being in a freezer with food would hard on books, however. Perhaps you could ship them up to Gloria and she could expose them Alaska's natural freezing? Finally make sure you can tell the difference between mildew and foxing on old books. While there are many theories about the origin of foxing, and it is exacerbated by excess humidity, it is not the same as mildew, nor would it be improved by sunning and alcohol wipes. It would be a shame to go to all this trouble in a vain attempt to eliminate foxing, which is more or less permanent on books. Are you dealing with any leather-bound books (partially or fully), the process has some similarities, and they have the same, or increased, risk of mildew, but the cleaning procedure and treatment are different. I hope I have given you some useful suggestions. I have never had any "chemical" concerns using grain alcohol, which after all, is considered "potable" in some states. One would of course not want to breathe too much of it in a closed room, nor smoke while using it! Long-term control of mildew on books is affected by decreasing humidity, avoiding stagnant air (say shelves behind a sofa), avoiding darkness (though this is a two-edged sword due to the risk of fading) and eliminating mold food. Of course molds adore paper pulp and starches (AKA pages and covers), but mold can be somewhat discouraged by keeping the books well-dusted and free from the organic residues often found in a house (soot, grease, smoke, spider droppings,etc.) I regularly go over my books - well actually more or less constantly since I have so many it takes months to clean each one, once. For some reason well-dusted books seem have fewer problems, or maybe I'm just cleaning it off in an earlier, less visible, stage. Either way, I find scrupulous cleaning keeps me from having to deal with outbreaks. So when you are done putting down the mildew-attack, consider going over all the books, page by page to get them completely in good order. There is nothing more satisfying than a clean, sweet-smelling old book. And speaking of sweet-smelling, even books "cured" of mildew may have a lingering, musty odor problem. I can add some additional info if that's an issue for you, though the airing and sunning will make a big difference all by itself. I can also make some suggestions for books about cleaning and managing a library, if you'd like. As you may have gathered, I have faced this problem more than few times. I have had good success with these techniques and hope you will, too. Molly~