Thanks, David, I chickened out on the Nora cuz I couldn't find really anything anywhere about them. I'm working to make a Title 24 solution work with CR6's with GU24 bases. It's been quite a runaround finding a way to do it without special ordering, but I think I got it figured. It's surprising to me that here in CA there's no place I can find locally that has the GU24 solution in stock.

1. The "AT" means "air tight". If I recall correctly, Title 24 requires AT and IC (insulation contact) rated cans. For most rooms, you can then either have high efficacy (approved fluorescent or LED), or can use incandescent with a dimmer. For bathroom, any incandescent has to be on an vacancy sensor (automatic off, manual on). For kitchen, most of your lights will have to be high efficacy, which also means that someone cannot pull them out and put in incandescent bulb. For fluorescent cans, you will see that they have the pin connectors. GU24 cans are NOT APPROVED for CFL, but are allowed FOR THE PRESENT for approved LEDs -- this is because the LED offerings are still developing. 2. For the kitchen, it will have to be fluorescent (tubes or pin-type socket, not CFL screw-in), or approved LED with a non-screw connection. This can be some funky vendor-specific connector, but I would steer clear of those and get GU24 cans. I put 18 of these (6" not 4") in my kitchen. For the living room, I used screw-in, even though I'm using LEDs there also -- just more versatile with more offerings. Note the the adapters that convert a screw in to a GU24 are NOT RECOGNIZED by Title 24 -- gotta be a GU24 socket wired in, if it is something that has to pass that part of Title 24. 3. The others look different, and are available in other color temperatures than 2700K. A pretty good competitor would be the equivalent Sylvania LEDs, which are 3000k if you want it a bit whiter. I can't remember right now, but some 4" GU24 cans (Elko?) have the socket on an adjustable bracket, and some (Nora) have it affixed to the top of the can. If the wire pigtail on the CR4 were 1/2" shorter, or I had larger hands, I would not have been able to get the CR4 installed in the Nora can. For that reason, I recommend the Elko one. "Approved" means on the official CA list in the case of LEDs, or designed in certain common/standard ways for fluorescent.

Hi Does anybody have any experience with any of these products. The Nora Marquise would give more lumens per watt v Halo. My electrician has only experience with Halo.

I do and of course J.D. Robb her alter ego. From the library I currently have books by Ngaio Marsh (mystery), Miriam Toews, Star Jones (yes, the Star Jones and sure to be cr#p but oh well), Mary Burton (a thriller), Jill Mansell, Lindsay Faye, David Balducci and Deborah Raney. I left Dick Francis on the shelf and will hopefully get it soon. I don't tend to pre-read the beginnings of books as I see others do at the library so I will often start a book at home and wind up not finishing it because it's poorly written or the story isn't to my liking. I do read a real mix of genres and authors.