If you aren't moving, I'd ignore trends and get what looks good and works for you (since it'll be untrendy before it matters). In other words, I don't now what is trendy right now, so keep that in mind. This is just what I think would work and look good. :) I like what you have, with the mirror going almost all the way across. Leave enough space on the sides for hanging towels (retractable makeup mirror maybe?) so that they don't block the mirror. Possibly a wider light fixture than what you have pictured but at a similar height. I'd do a mirror with a small frame or beveled edge. (I think unframed mirrors are absolutely unpopular now, but your mirror is already sort of framed by the space and less might be better. A bulky googah frame could be overkill.) A medicine cabinet isn't necessary and won't be missed unless you like using the angles to see the back of your hair, but there are better ways of doing that. And a medicine cabinet over the sink would require multiple doors and a seamless look would be better.

This is one below would match very well the style of the vanity, but U$ 380 is a lot: Medicine Cabinets:Cherry Medicine Cabinet - Handmade Woodworks Would it look weird if I just put a frameless recessed mirror cabinet there? I mean because the 2 main mirrors have a white shaker frame, the recessed cabinet would be frameless. If you think it's fine, I could get a Robern one, like this: Robern What size should it be considering the vanity mirrors are 24x36"including the frame? I could maybe go with a semi recessed shaker style with mirror like these: Shutter Medicine Cabinet : Medicine Cabinets : Restoration Hardware Cartwright Medicine Cabinet : Cartwright : Restoration Hardware But might need to refinish to match whites of cabinets. What do you guys think? Ideas? Thanks

It's highly unlikely anyone here is building to metric sizes(I do a lot but its not common.) It's also not as simple as just a tape and a screw driver. There are dozens of interior fittings on the market. A lot will work on US sized cabinets. It's the interior width that matters. Too many options for me to be specific. For example an interior roll out drawer can be a fixed size already assembled or one that has sides and slides and you supply our own back and bottom which you size to the particular opening. One thing to remember with pull outs is you also have to change the hinge to 0-protrusion or use spacer blocks to clear the door. Hafele has a lot of stuff but they don't carry Blum. I buy from them and several others. Just installed a "LeMans" corner unit yesterday from Kessebohmer that Hafele sells. Directions are really confusing first time around but I've done a lot of them and could explain it in four simple steps. All that German stuff is not user friendly. Once you finally figure it all out you say " why didn't you just tell me that".

Any med cab that is more than 14" wide requires that a carpenter make the studs in the wall "special" like your original house. They simply design the wall supports (studs and headers) to fit around the medicine cabinet. If you look at the triple cabs, you can see that there is no 2" stud between the cabinets. Any wooden cabinet will have a thicker back wall than any metal cabinet, reducing the interior space or forcing the cabinet to protrude further out of the wall to get the same depth. You can chose a cabinet that protrudes out a bit in order to get a deeper, more versatile cabinet, if you do not mind the edge sticking out beyond the wall. I would much rather have that extra depth be usable, not the thickness of a wooden back.