The plan and sketchup perspective are helpful. It was the deck along the side that I wanted to know about. If you limit the width of the swale to only about 4', you may not be able to achieve enough capacity to hold all the water during a torrential storm. I'd widen the swale to about half the distance between house and fence. Making it wider is fine, but the wider it is, the larger the retaining wall must be. Though I said I'd avoid creating the swale below the deck, I will now eat my words. Often, in a remodel situation--especially with limited space and where everything around is already built up--one cannot do everything in the perfectly ideal manner. But in creating it under the deck, I'd make sure it's wide enough to have sufficient capacity. In the sketch, I'm showing the deck using the wall as a support, but whether you could do that, or not, depends on how things shake out in the relationship of finish floor elevation (ffe) to existing grade. You seem like the kind of guy who would have a nice laser level, or need an excuse to buy one. You might some evening use one to mark the ffe directly on the grade (with paint) so you can get a nice visual of what you're dealing with. Depending, you may be able to create a secondary swale at the top of the wall and disperse the water before it goes into the primary swale. But because of grade and roots, that might not work out. You also might build the wall higher than I show and connect the deck to its side. Or, the deck may be independent of the the wall. Hopefully, you can understand the sketch of the drainage scheme. The arrows indicate that you must drain water away from your house at ALL sides. Near the back, it collects in the swale and is moved around the house to lower elevations on its way toward the front. I would not be much concerned about the tree roots. The prior disturbances are long ago and trees have nothing better to do than grow replacement roots, so they've long ago been re-established. The rear-most tree will maintain more than 3/4 of it's roots in spite of your building a wall in its vicinity. Near the front-most tree, if you end the wall aiming directly at the trunk, as I've shown, you will have little need to remove many large roots. It can recover from other excavation you do in the vicinity. (See the part of the sketch, in red and black, floating above the deck.)

Add this to my previous: If the glass will be pulled, then work out the scope of work and responsibility ahead of time. In writing. In a perfect world you'd have the glass company come out and remove the glass, then when the repairs are done, they come back out to reset the glass. That'll usually cost $$$. That money does not come out of your pocket. Your tiler can pay for them to do that. He may insist he can do it himself, with the caveat that he is accepting full responsibility for damage to any of the glass panels. And that's where the problems arise. Will he pony up $500 or $2500 for new glass if he shatters a panel? I'd let him have that responsibility only after he gives you a deposit of the $500 or $2500 that the replacement glass would cost. The glass breaks, you have cash on hand for new glass. If the repairs go fine with no damage, he gets the full amount back.

I have the GC coming tomorrow to review the issue with us. I don't have the install specs from Maax so I hope to get them online. Wish me luck.

I agree, they messed up. However, to fix this would require ripping out the entire thing and this small remodel project has already spanned over three months. We’re ready to be done with the whole experience, not drag it out for another three months. We’ve already negotiated discounts to the final project cost based on issues with the shower, so while I’m not 100% happy with the shower, it is something that we can live with. It’s functional and we realize that our space was challenging to work with. The pan is solid everywhere except this one corner and the water drains properly. The entire shower enclosure was a sloppy install from a cosmetic standpoint, there is no way that I would want the same plumber to redo it. We are very happy with how the rest of the bathroom turned out, the shower is the only problematic area. It’s annoying but not worth the hassle of forcing the contractor to rip it all out and start over, especially if we can level the threshold enough to install the shower door. All of the weight is supported by the walls and crossbar, I just need a level surface to rest the skinny little threshold piece on top of to guide the doors and have them open/close properly.