The ducts WILL cool to the attic temperature, and as ionized clearly explained the heated house air will rise into them, cool off, and ten sink back into the house. Ducts in an unconditioned attic need to be closed off during the winter. Close the vents using any control they have, and if they are still leaking remove the grill and place cardboard over the opening, than put the grill back up (paint the cardboard if you want). Unico systems (high velocity systems) are most often used for cooling, and they come with plastic plugs to close the vents during heating season. The plugs also prevent condensation in the flex ducts. If you have sheet metal ducts the condensation is more of an annoyance that anything usually. In Ductboard or flex ducts it can damage things if it freezes.

Sounds like you have the check valve backwards. Make sure the SHORT tubing is connected to the soap dispenser. Other than that, it must be the soap dispenser. There's really nothing to go wrong on the Never MT. It's just a hose with a check valve and some different size caps to fit different bottles. Mine works great. Good luck.

I would move the oven cabinet stack where the fridge is now, move the end cabinet where the oven is now, and move the fridge of your desire on the end run of cabinets. I don't care what kind of math you do, you will hate that fridge there next to that wall. Any fillers you need to make up the difference where the fridge is now should be eaten by your KD. He erred big time. Don't gloss over this because it will be something you hate. My side by side fridge opens both ways like a French door unit. It is at the end run of cabinets with a built-in "cabinet box" with a 4" spacerbuilt to the right and 3" to the left with cabinets above. The "cabinet box is about 36" deep, which protrudes much further out that the adjacent run of cabinets. Even with the spacers, I have to pull the fridge out into the middle of my walk-way to remove the shelves or drawers. It's a PITA. My parents were in a similar situation as your soon to be kitchen. The only solution that was feasible and cost effective was what I suggested to you. It's been that way in their home for 30 years. AND they are very happy with their kitchen layout. Here is a link that might be useful:

Jayne-there are two reasons that the cooktop can't go on the back wall. First, there is a little bump out wall that can't be removed. If the cooktop were placed there, you would lose 10" from the side wall in a L run because that's how much the bump out sticks out on that side. Also, it's a 20" stone wall...even if you decided to put a hole in it for a vent, it would vent right into the patio seating area. Can't run the vent across the ceiling to the side, because the joists go the wrong way. You could put the cooktop where the hutch and refrigerator are but you still have the venting problem and it wouldn't be a very nice view from the dining room. That was the motivation behind the refrigerator (integrated) and hutch there...the view. I'm not exaggerating when I say this kitchen is problematic. Right now it has 4 doorways, 3 windows, a soil stack chase and two little bump out walls. We seriously thought it would be easier to just move than tackle this remodel! live wire: the window to the right of the cooktop could be made smaller to accomodate the wall ovens there. It's north facing and doesn't have a great view, so that could be an option. I wish I had my design software on this computer. I really don't want to put a cabinet on the wall next to the sink because that will make it even more difficult to feel like you're part of the kitchen action when seated at the inside corner of the breakfast bar. It's already pretty bad.