Greenman28 - that is more lime than I'll use in a lifetime. I have to be honest - I do organic grows, and I really don't pay much attention to PH most of the time. I've had containers that had a little lime vs. another similar planting that didn't, and neither of them held any distinct advantage over the other, when it was all said and done. I'd rather mix a nice rich mix, and barring any super out of whack PH shift, just take my chances. If I had synthetic ferts and a 5-1-1 mix, maybe I'd need to be a bit more studious. But while I DO check PH, I usually don't sweat it. Just not liking the idea of wasting a batch of fine ingredients.

...but I do not have any in the rows since I do not want to rot the herbs and carrots. If mulched properly, you won't. I did dig down a few inches tonight and my soil is very moist, so thankfully that is the case. Then don't over water which is what I suspect you may be doing more than you think. And your statement is proof positive that just because it appears dry on tip doesn't mean it's dry underneath. Watering too frequently and too heavily is actually harder on plants than too little water. Roots require oxygen just as much as they require water and nutrients. You will have to adjust throughout the season and be attentive to the amount of rainfall you receive each week. There are two schools of thought on watering. Frequent shallow waterings or less frequent long, deep waterings. The general rule of thumb is that mature plants need 1-2 inches of rain per week in summer. You should provide whatever portion of this moisture is lacking. One inch of rain equals 65 gallons per 100 square feet of garden space. But this is just a guide. Time of the season, stage of the plants, soil composition, and many other factors affect the amount of water required. Be consistent during fruit production. If the plants are young or new transplants, they need time (2-3 weeks) to develop an established root system depending on the plant. Mulched beds require far less water than plants that are not mulched. Raised beds require more than non-raised beds. If a good amount of compost is incorporated into the soil, less water is needed. Compost holds 6-30 times it's weight in water. Dry winds dehydrate plants. Cooler temps require less water. Those using drip irrigation whether from a soaker hose or milk jug are likely getting the best use of their water which is going right where it needs to go and the ground has time to absorb it. There are hundreds of methods of watering. Whatever you do, just be consistent. Roots require oxygen equally as much as they require nutrients and water. I personally believe in a couple of deep waterings per week with the use of 2 inches of mulch to reduce evaporation and maintain a more stable soil temperature.

Not mentioned specifically above, but hidden in the comment from MichaelG about Cindi's friend George: I do know George and he gardens in southeastern most Texas. Mid day works for him. What y'all may not know about that part of the Gulf Coast is that in the morning, summer (all eight months of it), the humidity when you wake up is often 100%. It stays 100% until 9 or 10 in the morning. Were he to spray then, the spray on the leaves wouldn't dry and when the sun hit it, it would be more likely to burn where there were droplets. But by waiting till noon, the humidity drops, the temperature rises, and the spray dries fast on the leaves. And that's what you want. Leaving the leaves wet in some some temperature ranges is a way to encourage Black Spot.

To control your nute temperature, you also need to apply relective insulation to your troughs. They heat up and the water absorbs that heat as it flows past. I wrapped my troughs in aluminum foil and it helped control temperatures very well. Another benefit is it helps block light tremendously too which may help alleviate your algae problem. Also, I believe algae feed heavy on nitrogen which may, partially, explain your pH spikes. nitrogen brings the pH down. lose it and pH spikes. Also you might want to make sure you take pH measurements of nutrient that has cooled to somewhere along the lines of 70 - 75 degrees unless you compensating for the temperature. ANyway, just my thoughts.