Milk contains lactic acid - a weak acid. Greencure is a weak base. This mixing would be similar to those who mix baking soda with vinegar. ----------------------------------- "Antibacterial activity of lactoferrin is best studied; it originates from the iron-binding properties of lactoferrin, which deprive the bacterial flora of an element necessary for its growth.[22] Antibacterial action of lactoferrin is also explained by the presence of specific receptors on the cell surface of microorganisms. Lactoferrin binds to lipopolysaccharide of bacterial walls, and the oxidized iron part of the lactoferrin oxidizes bacteria via formation of peroxides. This affects the membrane permeability and results in the cell breakdown (lysis).[22] Although lactoferrin also has other antibacterial mechanisms not related to iron, such as stimulation of phagocytosis,[23] the interaction with the outer bacterial membrane described above is the most dominant and most studied.[24] Lactoferrin not only disrupts the membrane, but even penetrates into the cell. Its binding to the bacteria wall is associated with the specific peptide lactoferricin, which is located at the N-lobe of lactoferrin and is produced by in vitro cleavage of lactoferrin with another protein, trypsin.[25][26] A mechanism of the antimicrobial action of lactoferrin has been reported as lactoferrin targets H(+)-ATPase and interferes with proton translocation in the cell membrane, resulting in a lethal effect in vitro.[27]" I would be hesitant to add anything that would change the hydrogen ion (H+) concentration/equilibrium as often biological mechanisms are very pH sensitive. Here is a link that might be useful: Link for quote

I agree Hman both should be used at proper times. I was just listening to a garden podcast with Pam Bone a horticulture specialist. She mentioned studies of fruit trees taking up nitrogen in the late summer/fall to store in buds. The nitrogen remains there till springs. Also the Tree Tone product suggests fall fertilization of fruit trees too. So it makes it confusing as I've often heard to stop fertilizing by early summer. Something that hasn't been mentioned much is trace minerals, and so some form of organic can supply that, even mulch. In my area we are missing a few trace minerals. And I have seen deficiencies in trees. Also even farm animals showing deficiencies when no supplements are included in their diet. You need to know your area. You can mulch all you want but if your area is lacking in certain trace minerals unless you introduce them from an outside source like a complete organic fertilizer, or say azomite, you're not fixing the problem by using local organic material. Here we have very little Manganese and Selenium (almost none in local soils). Selenium requirements in plants differ by species, with some plants requiring relatively large amounts, and others apparently requiring none. So I add azomite, and other mineral products from time to time just as insurance. I'm trying to get away from urea and other soluble products, but so far I have not been able to, and not sure I want to. I like them a lot with seedlings as when the first true leaves appear, a quick fertilization with urea type products works well. Most soluble fertilizer are urea or ammonia. Either one does the job with seedlings. Also other applications when plants seem to need a pick up. Micro-managing growth of vegetables or other crops.soluble us useful. As far as efficiencies I would have to disagree with many in this thread and others. Everybody with a brain tries to make urea application efficient yet the run off into the rivers and the streams continues. So IMHO it's not working. You are wasting product even if applied in ideal conditions. This post was edited by Drew51 on Tue, Jan 27, 15 at 9:42

To those who make vegetable broth, have you considered that fact that outer peels of those vegetables may not be as wholesome as you might expect? I am quite happy to remove and compost those outer skins .I see them as the natural packaging and I dont eat outer packages. That has been exposed to all kinds of people and places and chemicals that were used to keep the bugs and vermin away in the process of getting them from the grower to the grocery store where most of us shop. If you grow your own vegetables, that is a different situation. It is not just field chemicals, they also have been subjected to packaging faciliites and transport modes that were probably treated with various sprays of stuff. You can cook enough to rid them of most bacteria from the hands, snot and spittle of those who picked and packed , but not the other pollutants. When a preservative is used in packaging it is not required to disclose as it is not part of the actual vegetable or food. Many of the bags of vegetables at Costco have been subjected to some manner of processing that even prevents them from rotting in the fridge in a normal manner. I have quit buying many of them. Not that what is in the grocery store has any guarantees, either . I buy all summer at a local venue. It may not be organic, but I see it growing right there in the fields and the people who are busy in the storefront are the very ones who are doing the harvesting. It is a small family run business. When it is not summer, the choices get more limited and I find myself at the local Asian supermarket that I feel has better selections than most white bread grocery stores.

@ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5, thank you so much for your comment and especially for suggesting that I get in touch with my local county extension! I did just that and heard back from a Master Gardener in my county. He was extremely informative and confirmed that my tree is, in fact, pretty much dead from citrus greening, AKA HLB (which is a terminal disease). I was relieved to finally have confirmation as to whether I should keep my tree or remove it before it infects my other healthy citrus plants, but am of course sad that it has to go. You were right, too, that the tree IS too far gone. @tom1328732, this is good info even if you do say it might not work against HLB, which my tree is in fact suffering from (or...was, as it seems quite dead now). Thank you! So it seems that there is absolutely no saving my tree. I'm planning on cutting it down and removing it this week. Yes, it hurts, because it's been there for forever, it feels like--but I guess I should have known that Murcott tangerine grown from seed can be trouble, and this is why they sell grafted trees--less disease susceptibility! Of course, if anyone else has any comments or ideas, I still welcome them! For example--can I plant a new citrus tree in the same spot this one is? Will it get sick, too? And how can I prevent my other citrus babies from getting HLB? ;_;