Thanks for the advice Alex. I think I'll give that a try in the spring. The trunk is 2 feet in diameter and overall it is quite far from dead. It was infested long before I moved in 2 years ago and I've only had to remove a couple branches from it in that time. The upper half of the tree appear to be quite healthy still. My plan was/is to anchor one end of a trellis directly onto the tree (there's a post that won't move) and plant the fruting female plant about 10 feet away to run along the trellis. The male non-fruting plant would be planted at the base of another side of the tree and left to run more or less wild up the tree. I don't have any experience with kiwi's, so I'm not sure if 1) the asthetic will be any good (aka wife factor) and 2) how well the tree and vine will interact. It's my understanding that eastern hemlocks have very shallow root systems, so not sure how well the kiwi would establish. I have rhubarb and a paw paw I planted about 8 feet away this year and both seem to be doing quite well. A foot away may be a different story though. I guess there's no harm in giving it a go and seeing if it works or not. Worst case, I just buy another male and fit it in somewhere.

Phyllis, I used to use Mattique and I liked it for the coverage and the matte look. I did find that at the end of the day, I think the color turned a bit orangey. Nowadays, my skin is older (how did that happen, lol) and I find a more moist look is better - I look pretty dead with too much matte! I use L'Oreal Visible Coverage (recommended by a forum friend here, by the way) and it provides pretty good coverage which I need for blotches. I know you're much younger than me, lucky girl!

Well an "itch" I could deal with, this BURNED like my face was on fire. I had to wash it off. I had previously tried mineral make-up at the counter of one of the BE stores and it did sort of itch a bit and 'felt funny' all the way home. Even with the cheap stuff I bought and tried back in May I was acutely aware of something being on my face, sort of 'itchy'. Even if I use the mineral make-up without scrubbing my face first I am thinking that this stuff ain't too safe for the eyes or lungs should any find their way there. I've already decided to toss it and go back to using pancake make-up as a foundation. Just a 'heads-up' to anyone who may be concerned with contact lenses.

You might also check out an unfinished furniture store; you could be surprised. I installed those metal shelf standards & brackets and put wooden shelves on them. I used plywood--had a lumberyard cut it to size, and got some iron-on veneer tape (and a little squeezer thing to shave the edge-banding down to size). It worked great. The brackets get in the way sometimes, but they're very adjustable. Cleats, while strong, are not; they're permanent (which is sometimes what you want). As for dimensions, well, anything will work in the right situation. Look at the shelving you have in other places, and see what it holds well. Bookcases are often 8" deep, and thatholds more than you'd think, and is good for smallish things (cleaning supplies, craft supplies, etc.); utility shelves are often 12" deep, which is too deep in some situations, too short in others. If you want to store big storage bins, you might need more like 24". Ihave a closet that's long and skinny like that. Where is your door? Is the closet open all the way across the 30 feet, or will you have to scooch down in front of the shelves? I would say, do those standards and brackets. Less work, and greater flexibility. You can buy longer or shorter brackets for different sections, if you want, without having to do anything more than install a shallower shelf. So you could have 24"-deep shelves using . And you can swap out the 24" brackets (or 18.5") and use 5" brackets in some other section where you want the shelves to be shallower. You could even install heavy-duty ones ($) in one section and light-duty ones () in another. I would also say, w/ a length of 30 feet to cover, that you should think of it in terms of 36" to 52" sections or something--so you can adjust the shelving to be different from one section to another, and so you don't have to wrestle some huge long boards around. For example: Measure 2 It's 23.9 inches end to end, so let's pretend you have room to store it end-in on a 24"-deep shelf. That means two of them side-by-side (at 15.9"wide) are 36" wide; you need a 36" space between the brackets. (You want this, because you want to be able to slip the Rubbermaid bin all the way back to the wall, and not get hung up on the bottom of the bracket as it angles down. The standards themselves are 1" wide; the brackets a tad less. Go w/ the 1", and figure drilling the holes 1/2" on the outside of each end that 36" space (holes are then 37" apart). The shelves need to be the 36" plus 1" on each end to get to the outside of the standard & bracket combo (38"). I don't know for sure whether you need to have an extra inch or two to the ends to go BEYOND the standard; if you attach that shelf to the bracket itself, you may not. In most of those systems, there are hole in the underside of the bracket', and you can put a pair of long screw up into the shelf from the bottom. Change the dimensions to match whatever storage things you're using. And of course, worry about sag--the can help you figure out how much weight the plywood will hold between the brackets. (and maybe, just maybe the extra wood that sticks out beyond the bracket will held work against sag, but maybe not) If you want a longer shelf, you may find you want a middle bracket to avoid sag, so plan its placement as best you can, based on what you'll store there. You might consider having one section that's just for big storage bins like that, and measure a few different brands to see if there's any commonality you can count on (or, commit to a brand, and buy a bunch). And other sections could be made to hold slightly smaller bins, or to have open areas for just stuff. I installed shelving like this and wanted SIDES, so stuff couldn't fall off the edges. I attached a vertical piece of wood to both ends the top shelf using L brackets, and then used L brackets to mount it to the wall midway down so it wouldn't wobble. I can still adjust the shelves between them. (I did it this way instead of a bookcase because the left side couldn't go all the way to the ground, or I wouldn't be able to reach the radiator valve) In the living room especially, I didn't want the shelves to bump up against the brackets and leave a gap behind them, so I cut a notch where the standards were. (next time, I'm going to use a hole saw to cut a semicircle there, isntead of trying to use a jigsaw to cut a 1.25" x 1.25" notch--those corners were a pain) And the shelf slides up against the wall. (if you do that notch thin, you'll need 25" deep shelves to go on 24" brackets. I even painted my standards to match the wall, and used white brackets to match the white shelves. If you wanted a section w/ a hanging bar, you could either install a hanging bar to the underside of the shelf, or try to find a standard-and-bracket system that has a hanging-bar type component. Or, maybe get two 18" brackets, and wire (or weld) a bar to the end of the bracket)