Thanks Thusie; Repairclinic was one of my first ventures...I pored over their 481 (to be exact) igniter styles and found no BlueStar matches.....Before I write them off, I will call them...as you say, they are known to be phone-responsive..... Thull....I tried the penetrating oil...problem is, the flange on the igniter is covering the screw's hole entirely, and the whole unit is torqued down, dis-allowing any penetrating oil to even get to the threads.....Upon examining the snapped screw, I can see the screw body has "become one" with the cast iron...don't think oil can even get in there...Another problem arises in the fact that it is a blind hole....(only access to one side of the hole) Since I now know I need at least three igniters, I'm going to heat the screw with a small torch...this seems to be the most efficient way I've found... Thanks for all the input here...I'm not giving up yet....even looked into repairing/reglazing the hairline cracks....(was told to try this from one of the many igniter dealers I talked to)

Yes, igniters can go bad. Good news is it's a few dollar part, and easily replaceable.

We were down to two burners on our 2006 30' BS range after continuous clicking occurred even after ignition when we used the other two. Checked the manual, called BS, got right through and spoke to Matt. We pretty quickly established that it was a bum igniter module and that I could replace it myself if I was at all handy (Im OK handy). Ordered the part (4 burner igniter module) for $85 plus $10 shipping and it came in 3 days. I unplugged power to the range and got started. Wasn't quite sure how to take the front/control panel off and I hadn't gotten specifics from Matt, but it is pretty easy once you remove the knobs and remove three screws above the knobs and two below. The angles are a little tough to get to the upper screws but be patient. Take the drip tray out to give yourself room to get the lower screws. Once the screws are out, gingerly pull the panel forward and it should come off and hang by the wires connected to the switches on either end of the panel. You'll see the igniter module in the center back behind a neatly bundled cluster of wires. I had read a post above from annalbin about modifying a 6-burner module for a 4-burner range and this operation was apparently much simpler since I had the 4-burner module (though BS kindly included instructions for the 6-burner operation). The wires all connect by plugs, so I one-by-one unplugged from the old and re-plugged into the new so as to get the sequencing right. My wires were actually numbered. No cutting or stripping of wires was involved. Once they were all plugged back in to the new module, I unmounted the old module and screwed in the new (with 3 screws easily accessible from under the front 2 burners). Carefully pushed everything back into the space behind the control panel and replaced the panel and screwed it back in. My wife helped hold the panel in place so we could line up the center screw. Plugged the range in and she fired right up on all burners with now continuous clicking. Probably took an hour. Hopefully this igniter module will last for the life of the range; IÂll be disappointed if it doesnÂt. I thought the response from BlueStar (Prizer-Painter) was actually pretty good. I hate to read negative experiences detailed here and I hope this will help anybody who has a similar problem. Good luck!

I have not found a tutorial, but have found bits and pieces enough that I think we could make the repairs. I searched and searched to see if anyone else experienced the problem we have. In doing so, I came across a lot of information, just not the solution. The new stoves on the market are 1/8" to 1/4" wider than our Thermador slide in range. This information comes from the specs that we have for the old range and any new range we might want to buy. Removing the range and measuring might be slightly different. When we had the kitchen remodeled, I checked to see if Thermador still made the popup downdraft. They do, but only for the cooktop. I missed that. The downdraft with our range is not a separate unit, and this style is no longer made. In order to get a downdraft, we have to buy a range and the downdraft as a separate unit. The only one we have found is the Dacor. Because they are separate pieces, they take up more depth. The blower would be mounted under the floor in the crawl space. This would apply to just about any brand of popup downdraft vent. There are a few on the market that are not that way, but they are not powerful enough. I do use the vent every time I use the range. Since the kitchen is at the end of a long room, we opened it up by removing hanging cabinets. If we have to put in an overhead vent, we will be back to something hanging from the ceiling. The range is in a peninsula. If I had realized what a problem it would be, I would have had the range installed against the wall. For family gatherings, everyone gathers at the peninsula and everyone likes to participate in the cooking. Even if only one person cooks, he/she can be part of the group rather than facing the wall.