Hi guys, I've had my NXR range since 2009 and we just ordered a replacement range after 15 years of ownership. It still works great. except for the annoying clicking burners (I developed a workaround "fix" to stop the clicking, but it can be dangerous, and I previously posted the way I did it on this thread) My video: NXR Range Clicking Fixed (youtube.com) Anyway, the new range comes in next week, and I plan on salvaging many parts from this unit before they remove it, since I understand many parts are not available to order any longer. I'm trying to get an idea of what people may want/need for their ovens. If anyone has any specific needs, please post what you need as I will be listing them on Ebay for reasonable prices. I already listed the grates and burners since they remove easily. Thanks..

I have a Jenn-Air JGC9536 gas cooktop that was installed 6 years ago by the builder. Recently one or more of the ignitors will fire when everything is turned off. I searched the web and found likely causes to be a) liquid in the cooktop (none present in this case); b) improper ground or wiring (has been working fine for over 5 years); c) one or more burner covers are ajar (all are installed properly); or d) bad spark module. I ordered a new spark module and replaced it the other day. When I plugged it back into the outlet the ignitor is still firing when the controls are off. Can anyone please help or do I need to call a pro? Thanks!

For starters ... what model range do you have? A couple of troubleshooting steps for starters: 1. check polarity of outlet that range is plugged into. 2. clean the ignitors with rubbing alcohol and q-tip - assure no gunk is on them - obviously let dry thoroughly before testing. 3. check the burner cap holes to make sure not clogged. 4. if all else checks out, consider replacing the spark module (approx. $100). 5. Flame adjustment is made by a small screw behind the range knob (assuming it's a range - not sure on the cooktop) - you can tweak the simmer a bit.

Found alternative solution. Less than half the price of the knock off ones being sold on ebay and a fraction of Bluestar OEM part price. This is the part that will work with modifications. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028S3T4Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are the parts side by side....very much different. I found this part on a post years ago and gave it a try. Follow my instructions and you can do it. A bit difficult, but worth it. The other ones will be a breeze after going through this figuring out on my own. 1) Take your bad ignitor and bust it apart with a hammer on both ceramic ends. The small mounting tab will break off. Save the tab and clip the ignitor wire off. 2) This is the mounting tab you will need. 3) Put the mounting tab in a vise and drill out the opening to fit the new ignitor threaded base. The metal is very hard, be patient. I had to angle the bit and work it some to open it up. Just widen it enought that the mounting tab can slide down the threaded base. 4) Next, take one of the 2 nuts that came with the ignitor and use a grinding wheel and take a side down as shown in the photo. Confusing, but the base of the threaded portion is wider than the OEM ignitor, so to get this to work, it needs to be shaven down, otherwise you cannot secure the ignitor with 2 nuts to hold it into place on the tab. This shaven down one goes on top. The nut has enough meat on it to adequately hold the ignitor in place just fine. 5) Here is the finished product....see the shaven down nut....this avoids it hitting the burner and making it cocked out on an angle. I will not fit correctly. If you do not do this, any option would be to fabricate a new mounting tab that is longer so it clears the burner using both nuts unmodified. 6) The wire connector is different. I clipped the OEM wire and used a butt connector to the new wire after removing its plug. The wire is very long, so you can trim down quite a bit to match the lenght of the OEM wire. 7) Here is the new ignitor attached to the burner. NOTE: On all my burners I removed the OEM screws and use all key stainless steel bolts. This is the bomb and a MUST do to all your ignitors. Take you screw or burned to a good old school hardware store and get some. Makes all the difference and you will NEVER have a stuck screw again. If you cannot get your screw out...spray some rust cutter on them and use a vise grip to grab the screw, will come right out. As you can see, the one nut does not need to be modified because it can fit in place fine. The allen screw bolt head is small giving it that extra room also. As mentioned, the other nut needs to be shaved down. 8) View form the burner after in the range again. Items not mentioned.....the wire tip on the burner is very much different and longer. You need to be careful and plan out how long and where to bend. The metal is very hard, use 2 needle know plier to bend. Be careful not to damage the ceramic. One good thing, the metal thread base allows you to move the ignitor up and down to fine tune it placement. My first try, the tip was too high so it did not make any spark (could not jump that far and get to ground). So I lowered the ignitor and it work better than the OEM ignitor, went on instantly. Very satisified. Go for it. I was looking for years to an alternative solution than the rip off Bluestar ignitor. These also are solid on the top so no junk gets in theem.