I had been wanting to move them (and 4 others for about 4 years or so, so that is why I dug the whole thing. I didn't really see any way of just digging off a clump, knowing how bad the top looked. Would 4 eyed (multiple eyes per piece) up woody pieces and 4 nice healty roots make for a nice start? do you think? Should I send more? Maybe the fairest trade would be a flate rate box with a 'bunch' of each. I know when you buy a potted red one at a big box store, that it doesn't have much foliage, thus not many eyes, and they aren't cheap.

North/west exposure...one likes green, the other like blue. Put that together and you've got Rocky River, deep blue/green undertones. Canvas Tan has a yellow undertone, so good for the north light, but not as good for the afternoon west light which can very mean things to yellow. Folkstone has a kind of odd undertone, purple/red. The purple tone is fine with north light, but again the strong west light isn't going to show it at its best. I would not use it as the trim color. If you could do the trim in a bright white, that would be another story.

Prairiemoon, You're welcome! Perovskia sulks under growing conditions that roses relish. Think the same growing conditions that English Lavender likes: full sun, dry & lean, fast draining soil, moderate to low watering. Give Heliopsis a try. You won't be sorry. An older variety, Heliopsis Summer Sun, may be what your nursery has...get it if necessary. Its smaller bloomed, but a great workhorse of a plant. Malvas will self sow if some blooms are let to go to seed. Malvas are generally not long lived perennials. 2-3 years max, but they actually can self sow prolifically. They're not biennial. They can be started from seed in spring and bloom by August or sooner. A couple named varieties of Malva have been developed, some with great colors, but they are not very permanent in the garden, not as permanent as the species: fastigiata and moschata alba. Some Salvias flop, like S. Blue Hill. It's a blooming machine, and the true blue color is refreshing. It flops in all directions away from the crown, which because light is now hiitting the crown, that stimulates new growth from it. These result in inferior center of plant flower spikes. The whole thing is a messy, sloppy look. Salvia May Night dead heads nicely, making fresh lateral growth, and sends up fresh growth from the crown during the growing season as well. Few perennials do this. Most, even excellent perennials, pattern like this, good blooming first flush, then acceptable new lateral growth blooming for the rest of the growing season if faithfully deadheaded. Very few perennials send up fresh basal growth from their crowns during the growing season, very few indeed! Heucheras' main fault is that their over wintering parts are above ground level, making them subject to severe winter damage which causes them either to grow backwards, or out and out die. The farther north they are grown, the worse their dying out is. It's the same for Dianthus grown in zone 6 or less....poor spring return. Campanula carpatica need good drainage, quicker draining than roses require. Remember, dead heading is the switch that turns on repeat blooming for most perennials. Exceptions are Phlox paniculata varieties, and some others who start their blooming season late like P. paniculata, which start blooming in about early July. It goes without saying that adequate watering must be maintained to get the required repetition. Moses.

Porkchop, 'Tuscan Sun' can rather vary in height, guess much depends on soil fertility, moisture and root competition ... in my conditions, most perennials tend to grow on the larger side. From Walters Gardens ... 'Tuscan Sun'