When you upgrade the windshield, use polycarbonate (Lexan) instead of Plexiglass. The Lexan costs a bit more but will not fracture as readily as Plexi. Try to devise a mounting strategy that does not require drilling mounting holes in your windshield panel. Drilling holes in the clear panel for bolts or screws almost guarantees cracks to develop at the hole and spread across the panel. A technique I have used with success is to fabricate a "frame" for the plastic panel from lengths of oak hardwood flooring. I miter cut 4 pieces of this flooring to form something that could pass for a picture frame. The groove or slot of the "tongue & groove" feature is the key here. I rip the tongue part away (and reduce the plank width to the desired dimension at the same time) on my table saw. Then I construct the "frame" (using miter cuts at the corners) so that the "groove" is facing inward (or to the inside of the perimeter of the frame). The frame needs to be sized so that the frame width and height (measured from the bottom of the grooves) is about 1/8 inch greater than the width & height of your plastic panel. Figure out which "side" of this frame is the bottom of the windshield and cut slots with a router, a drill or a circular saw to provide a way for water to drain out of the bottom groove of this plank (make the drainage provision only into the "weather side" of the plank). Assemble the plastic panel into the frame on a flat surface using metal corner braces (from the hardware store). If you did your math right, the edges of the plastic panel will not be visible (except for portions along the outside of the bottom plank where you provided drainage) and the corners of each plank will butt against each other with no gaps. If you have a gap at a corner it means that your frame members are too short. Because of the possibility of cutting your frame members too short, you may want to deliberately cut them a bit long and then shorten them (using miter cuts) in the assembly stage. Once you have a good fit all around (no gaps and no panel edges showing) scribe or otherwise mark each corner of the frame members AND the corners of the plastic panel so that you can reassemble it later EXACTLY as you built it. Now you can put the final touches to the fabrication phase by locating the mounting holes in the frame that will secure the "windshield" to the tractor. DO NOT tighten the windshield down with "brute force" It is best if you make the mounting holes in the wooden frame AND the tractor slightly larger than the bolt or screw diameter you choose. Use flat washers and self locking nuts to hold the windshield assembly to the tractor. This somewhat loose fit will allow for any "flexing or twisting" of the tractor cab to occur without breaking or loosening the plastic panel. After you are satisfied with the fit of the windshield assembly, take it apart and paint each plank (paint the grooves and backside too) with a good grade of paint in the color of your choice. I have also made some "windshields" and side windows using extruded aluminum strips (available at bigger "automotive or commercial glass shops) but for most projects of this nature, the oak tongue & groove flooring works pretty well.

Here are the Construction Specifications Institute (CSI) specification categories. Writing a spec is unique to a given project so the full set of choices is usually contained in a software program that costs big bucks and is copyrighted. Specification writing software is more likely to be owned by an architect or spec writer than by a home builder, designer or draftsman. Using a spec from another project is tempting but it can result in important omissions and errors. No two jobs are exactly alike specially if they are in different materials markets and climates or the budgets are far apart. Let me know if you want information about one of the sections. Division 1 General Requirements 01100 Summary 01200 Price and Payment Procedures 01300 Administrative Requirements 01400 Quality Requirements 01500 Temporary Facilities and Controls Division 2 Site Construction 02050 Basic Site Materials and Methods 02100 Site Remediation 02200 Site Preparation 02300 Earthwork 02400 Tunneling, Boring and Jacking 02450 Foundation and Load-Bearing Elements 02500 Utility Services 02600 Drainage and Containment 02700 Bases, Ballasts, Pavements and Appurtenances 02800 Site Improvements and Amenities 02900 Planting 02950 Site Restoration and Rehabilitation Division 3 Concrete 03050 Basic Concrete Materials and Methods 03100 Concrete Forms and Accessories 03200 Concrete Reinforcement 03300 Cast-In-Place Concrete 03400 Precast Concrete 03500 Cementitious Decks and Underlayment 03600 Grouts Division 4 Masonry 04050 Basic Masonry Materials and Methods 04200 Masonry Units 04400 Stone 04700 Simulated Masonry 04800 Masonry Assemblies Division 5 Metals 05050 Basic Metal Materials and Methods 05100 Structural Metal Framing 05200 Metal Joists 05300 Metal Deck 05400 Cold-Formed Metal Framing 05500 Metal Fabrications 05700 Ornamental Metal Division 6 Wood and Plastics 06050 Basic Wood and Plastic Materials and Methods 06100 Rough Carpentry 06200 Finish Carpentry 06400 Architectural Woodwork 06500 Structural Plastics 06600 Plastic Fabrications Division 7 Thermal and Moisture Protection 07050 Basic Thermal and Moisture Protection Materials and Methods 07100 Damproofing and Waterproofing 07200 Thermal Protection 07300 Shingles, Roof Tiles, and Roof Coverings 07400 Roofing and Siding Panels 07500 Membrane Roofing 07600 Flashing and Sheet Metal 07700 Roof Specialties and Accessories 07800 Fire and Smoke Protection 07900 Joint Sealers Division 8 Doors and Windows 08050 Basic Door and Window Materials and Methods 08100 Metal Doors and Frames 08200 Wood and Plastic Doors 08300 Specialty Doors 08400 Entrances and Storefronts 08500 Windows 08600 Skylights 08700 Hardware 08800 Glazing Division 9 Finishes 09050 Basic Finish Materials and Methods 09200 Plaster and Gypsum Board 09300 Tile 09400 Terrazzo 09500 Ceilings 09600 Flooring 09700 Wall Finishes 09800 Acoustical Treatment 09900 Paints and Coatings Division 10 Specialties 10100 Visual Display Boards 10200 Louvers and Vents 10240 Grilles and Screens 10290 Pest Control 10300 Fireplaces and Stoves 10340 Manufactured Exterior Specialties 10350 Flagpoles 10520 Fire Protection Specialties 10600 Partitions 10670 Storage Shelving 10700 Exterior Protection 10750 Telephone Specialties 10800 Toilet, Bath, and Laundry Specialties 10900 Wardrobe and Closet Specialties Division 11 Equipment 11130 Audio-Visual Equipment 11450 Residential Equipment Division 12 Furnishings 12050 Fabrics 12100 Art 12300 Manufactured Casework 12400 Furnishings and Accessories 12500 Furniture Division 13 Special Construction 13600 Solar Equipment 13700 Security Access and Surveillance 13800 Building Automation and Control 13850 Detection and Alarm 13900 Fire Suppression Division 14 Conveying Systems 14100 Dumbwaiters 14200 Elevators Division 15 Mechanical 15050 Basic Mechanical Materials and Methods 15100 Building Service Piping 15300 Fire Protection Piping 15400 Plumbing Fixtures and Equipment 15700 Heating, Ventilating, and Air Conditioning Equipment 15800 Air Distribution 15900 HVAC Instrumentation and Controls 15950 Testing, Adjusting, and Balancing Division 16 Electrical 16050 Basic Electrical Materials and Methods 16100 Wiring Methods 16200 Electrical Power 16500 Lighting 16700 Communications 16800 Sound and Video

I have whirlpool cabrio having same issue unbalance on spin cycle. 1st i replaced suspension rods.....still unbalanced. 2nd change out bearings and shaft....still unbalanced. 3rd changed out motor stator.....still unbalanced. 4th changed out sensor.....still unbalanced. Did some research,and what i found is some washers will have a counter balance ring located on top of basket. It is filled about half way with liquid and factory seal. Some have a removable counter balance ring and some models are permanently attached to stainless steel tub. Our model has the permanently attached ring. and has liquid in it. The bottom part of the basket is another plastic molded ring, and has water in it. I understood the the water in the top ring ,but didn't understand water in the bottom ring. I did some research and found that many different manufacturers of washing machines only had a counter balance ring located on the top of washer and done on bottom........was there suppose to be water in the bottom ??? Did more researching and found a video that i guy, like myself with the same issues and changed out the same parts and still had unbalance issues. He had water in the bottom plastic ,and he drilled where the two mold plugs were and drain out water and reseal holes.........no more issues! So I said what do I have to lose,and did the same thing......RESULTS NO UNBALANCE!

EXACTLY! After throwing a fit, I finally got my appliances ordered last May on October 18. They substituted a SHarpe microwave because the LG is now on back order at Lowes! (the microwave IS available thru LG website however) And they substituted another model for my LG Range. It was a slightly more expensive model, so we didn't gripe, but it came with no racks, no installation package, no warranty info, no user manual, no air fry tray, no built in thermomter. I spent hours talking to LG AND to Lowes. Finally had to order the installation package myself at $71 and Lowe's is supposed to give me a gift card for that amount. Lowe's optional solution was to order a completely new range (which is out of stock now and not expected til after the new year). They OBVIOUSLY robbed Peter to pay Paul. During this whole process, I have spent 2 hours with my Lowe's designer selecting appliances that were "in stock" and endless hours on the phone reporting delivery damages, missing appliances, and trying to rectify errors.