I suspect that if you purchased a pro style range that there might not be any performance issues because I assume that they have old fashioned burner design with both air shutters and gas orifice adjustment. However, if you got a sealed burner style without air adjustment, you might be somewhat displeased. I am in the latter situation. My gas cook-top was made for natural gas and was converted with new orifices and a reset regulator. This is the common approach. I suppose that some higher end units might have specially designed propane units, but maybe not. I had two issues. First; it is not necessarily easy to get the precise orifice for a burner to exactly balance the air to gas ratio for a good flame, and the only adjustment is to change the orifice again (and again if one even exists). The second issue is that the valves (the knob travel) were designed for natural gas and now my highest settings are mostly reached at one half the valve/knob travel which is a marked setting of medium more or less. The other issue is that propane must be locally transported and is usually much more costly than natural gas, particularly in certain parts of the country. I wanted gas for control, perhaps power outages, and low cost (I had lived with natural gas for 50 years). When we moved in, propane cost much less than now. Electricity is a better deal now here. Perhaps price will drop with so much gas production, but it hasn't made much difference yet. Except for outage issues, and knowing what I do now, I would probably consider induction.

I don't have any experience with these expensive stoves. However, my impression is that they are designed like old classic simple stoves and therefore would probably only need a specific gas regulator designed for propane. I looked on the Bluestar site and their install manual is listed. Here is what appears to be the answer I expected for you. This appliance can be configured to work with either natural gas or LP gas. Verify that the appliance and the incoming gas supply are compatible. Check the rating plate. 3. The gas supply line must be the same size or larger than the gas inlet of the appli- ance. Your appliance has either a ýâ NPT or þâ NPT gas inlet connection. We recommend the supply line be üâ NPT larger than the gas inlet of the appliance. 4. Sealant used on pipe joints must be resis- tant to LP gas. 5. An installer provided manual shut-off valve must be installed in the gas supply line ahead of the appliance. This shut-off must be easily accessible in case of emer- gency. 6. All gas cooking equipment must have a pressure regulator on the incoming service line for safe and effi cient operation. This appliance is equipped with such a gas pressure regulator. Incoming gas pressure should be checked with a manometer. The correct manifold pressure for natural gas is 5.0â wc. For LP gas the correct manifold pressure is 10â wc.

dcarch, depending on what you mean by 'old', I am going to disagree. I suppose I may not have found a competent plumber, but I spent hours with appliance guys and Kitchenaid and Google etc. If by 'old', you meant a 1950s stove, then you probably wouldn't even need a plumber. I suspect the same applies if we are talking some nice expensive open burner modern stove. However, if you are talking sealed burner stoves and needing conversion to propane, it is a different story. Unfortunately, other than a modified pressure regulator, the only gas control one has is the orifice for each burner. You will get a propane replacement kit with supposedly appropriate orifices for your burners. If they are not exactly right to give appropriate flame, you need to find other orifices and most specific sizes are not available. There are special micro drill bits that can be used on undersized orifices and it might be possible to find a plumber with such a kit, but perhaps not. In any case, an appropriate flame will not likely be one that would respond to the movement of your burner knob and you may find that max flame could be reached at a half on position. If you can find a stove built for propae it would be a good idea to get it.

Have you actually tried getting this taken care of? Did you buy the range from a retailer or pick it up at a yard sell? Something is wrong about what you have told us. A. All reputable retailers include a user's manual with gas appliances(their lawyers insist on it). B. A user manual is not as difficult to get hold of as you are letting on. C. Converting from propane to ng is simply the reverse of ng to propane. D. Anyone who doesn't know how to switch between fuels should not be trusted to install gas appliances. E. There gas been no kit required for more than 3 decades,simply turn a coule of screws. F. The average home handyman can easily figure it out by simply lifting the top cover and reading what it say's on the rating plate and pressure regulator.