I suggest the pot for that Sans. is too big, that MAY be why you're losing a stem here & there. Even if one doesn't water all that often, the mix of a larger pot can stay wet a longer time, that CAN lead to root rot which can destroy stems (leaves) one by one. I'd unpot the Sans., check its roots, cut off anything that's try & brittle or soft & mushy. I'd use fresh mix either for Houseplant or Cactus & Succulent mix, then add 30-40% perlite. Try to use mixes that have little or no peat for this. I'd pot it smaller into maybe a pot 4" in diamter, maybe 5" not much larger. Best way to judge is use one pot size larger than the size of the rootball. Then DON'T WATER IT for a week or so. You can place rocks on the top of the mix if you need to to support the plant in place after banging the newly planted plant & pot on the tabletop to help it settle in.

I think this kind of thing could happen to anyone using any brand gas grill, so it's a good warning to check all connections carefully before grilling. I confess I only checked the tank to regulator and regulator hose for leaks prior to my first usage of the Virco. The manual did say to also check the gas control valves, but I couldn't figure out how to get to them. I guess I could see them from underneath if I lay on my back, so that's what I'll do next time. I also recall that propane is heavier than air, unlike natural gas, which is lighter than air. So the propane can settle in low places and collect and then explode. Also, as I have recently noticed, a new steel propane container may react with the odorant in the propane charge, and the result is that it can be harder to detect leaks. Lots of people are probably buying new propane tanks with OPD valves rather than retrofit their old ones, so perhaps some extra caution is needed for the first tankful or so. All this makes me wonder if perhaps I may be installing the natural gas conversion kit sooner than I expected...;-) Here is a link that might be useful: Propane safety

You can put the flame tamers in either way. When I first assembled mine over a year ago, I put the tamers in with the small opening up. My thinking was that with the larger opening up it could act like a funnal and allow more dripping to get below an possibly flare up. But since then, when ever I give the grill a good cleaning, I clean off the flame tamers and flip them over. This allows the burners to burn away any extra grease. So faw I've not had any flare ups doing it this way. As for the back mounting screws and nuts. If you are refering to the mounting holes near the top for the guard the runs the length of the grill that covers the gas line for the rear burner, mine has all 5 screws and nuts in place. The screws are on the back side with the nuts in the inside of the grill. If you are refering to the 5 screws the hold the rear burner in place, mine also has 5 screws. Not sure if these screws require a nut, as I would need to take the rear guard off to take a look. For these the screws are but in from the inside of the grill. Hope this helps. Tim

Alek, I enjoyed looking at all the info on your web site. Recently I saw a NG Y0660 that had been returned to Sam's Club because the buyer really needed the LPG version. It was a bit dented-up in the front, and missing the rotisserie parts. Sam's wanted $700 for it. I started the task of trying to figure out just what it would take to convert it to propane and to repair the cosmetic damage. When I realized that the valves would have to be replaced, as well as the orifices, both doors and one drawer, as well as all the missing rotisserie parts, I almost bagged the idea, but decided to call Grand Hall and check on parts prices anyway. Am I ever glad that I did! The prices were so reasonable that the total cost to convert to LPG and restore the grill to new condition was only $270.00 including shipping. When my offer of $500.00 was accepted by the manager at Sam's I picked up the grill and ordered the parts. I've installed them all, with the exception of one valve that was not correct, a missing bracket to mount the rotisserie motor, and slides for the tank drawer ... basically just "noise-level" problems. Haven't had a chance to use the grill yet, as the weather hasn't been too cooperative, but I'm looking forward to it. My total cost for an "almost new" Y0660 grill is now $770.00. ! ! ! ! ! ! S C O R E ! ! ! ! ! ! There are a few things that I've learned from this exercise that I'd like to pass along: 1) Grand Hall's customer service folks are great! Their policies are pretty good too ... with the incorrect part it was "Oh, we'll get a replacement out today", not "Send it back and we'll see ...". 2) If you know what you need, and how to ask for it, you *CAN* buy the parts to convert these grills from NG to LPG and from LPG to NG. 3) The parts costs are ludicrously low ... the main valves, which include the orifice are only $5.00 each, and the side burner and rotisserie valves are $8.00 each, as they include a little more hardware. It probably makes more sense to just buy the darned things than to do the drilling for the LPG to NG conversion, and it's WAYYY better to buy for the NG to LPG conversion than to try filling and redrilling with smaller holes. 4) Rather than actually replacing the valves, which can be difficult to get off the manifold of the Y0660, it's better to just swap the valve cores and the orifices. I don't know for sure if the valves are common between the Y0660 and the smaller Y0101XC, but the conversion pictures on your site look identical. For example, the main burner gas valve part number is P03222007A for LPG. Also, the valve bodies have the number "0404A" cast into the side. This is the same for the NG and the LPG valves. How does this compare to the part number & valves for the Y0101XC? I have a full set of parts for anyone wanting to convert from LPG to NG. I'd also be interested in that guage that you've got left over from your conversion,...