To start with, this is enough off topic that you might not get as wide a range of answers and attention as you would if you posted a new thread with this question. Please understand that I am not telling you to go away; I'm only telling you that a new thread might get your clearer and better informed answers to your specific questions. Okay, that having been said, it seems to me that maybe you need to have oven temperature control and cycling explained so that we can rule out or rule in the possibility that the microprocessors have been toasted by the self-cleaning cycle. First thing is this: oven preheat signals are lies, pure and simple. They only measure the air temperature in the oven but what you need for even and proper baking is to fully preheat the cavity (oven walls, celing, floor, etc.) That takes longer than the "preheat." In most ovens (including those in GE Profile ranges) "fast preheating" is advertising hype and bragging rights, not reality. Here's how an oven works, electric ovens in particular. (I say all of this from having owned and used a GE Profiile DF range for a decade and something. If you already know this, then just take this as putting us all on the same page for discussion.) You turn the oven on and set the temperature dial/touchpad to say, 350F. With an electric oven, and some gas ovens, both the top (broiler) and bottom (baking) elements come on. (And, with some newer convection ovens, the rear "convection" element also may come on.) The air temperature climbs and the walls etc. also start to heat up. When the air temp hits 350F, the sensor says the oven is preheated. Except that it is not. Most of baking is actually done with ehat radiating from the walls fof the oven cavity, not the air termperature. (Mhyrvold's Modernist Cusine website and book explain this in great technical detail if you want the geeky details.) What actually happens is that the bottom and top burners continue running until the actual air temp climbs a lot. In your case, it apparently climbs another 50F. Then (hopefully) it shuts off. Trouble is, if you put your baked goods into the oven when the preheat signal goes off, the top burner is still hot and likely is still operating. At this point, you might as well put your pie, your roast, your whatever under the broiler. The top will burn. OTOH, if you wait a few more minutes after the air temp hits the programmed max and the burners shut off. The air temp starts to fall, Your oven cavity's walls are picking up heat and catching up with the air temp but are not there yet. Another four or five minutes -- maybe ten with some ovens -- and the air temp falls to 325F or even 300F. One or more burners come on again. And, once again, the temp goes above your set point. It might go 50F above or it might go a bit less this time. My vintage 2000 GE Profile DF would go 50F above and then drop 50 below, then go 40 above, then cool to 40 below, then go 30F above and below. As best I could tell, the top element was used only in the initial run up but your newer stove may do this a bit differently. It would cycle maybe 25F above and below using only the bottom and convection heating elements, After about 30 minutes, it would reach a sort of equlibrium and the temperature would average around the set-point. Basically, most ovens take 20 to 30 minutes to actually stabliize at a baking temprerature. Now, if your oven is now running 50F above the set point, but not otherwise failing to work, it is possible that the observed symptom would have been the result of damage caused by the self-cleaning cycle but not probable. My experience is that when something goes wrong from overheating during or as a result of a self-cleaning cycle, the failure is typically catstrophic. Such as, the oven stops working altogether. To me, a more likely and simpler culprit is that the oven calibration has drifted. Is the oven running consistently 50F over the set point after a 20 to 30 preheat? If the oven is consistently too hot (after giving it at least half an hour to properly preheat), then I would look at the use and care guide in the section on adjusting the oven termperature settings. Hope this helps get your started o sorting out the problem. This post was edited by JWVideo on Mon, Feb 10, 14 at 13:12

Would love to hear the answer to this. I have the Bosch dual-fuel slide-in, with ceramic glass under the gas rings. Today, the hood installer dropped a power screwdriver point-down & broke the glass. They are ordering a new glass top & should have it installed in a couple of days. Here's hoping it will all work properly after all........ But -- aarrghhhhhhh! This was the last step to completing the kitchen reno. And now, we're still not done yet!

I have a similar one, the GE Profile PP962SMSS. I have to say, unfortunately, that I don't like the black as much as I liked the black w/gray speckles of our old range (also a GE Profile). It seems more difficult to clean and any spots are pretty noticeable. Cooking wise, it's OK. It heats things in a reasonable amount of time (nowhere near as fast as induction, though!) When I was shopping (2007), it was the only reasonably priced electric cooktop that I could find with both a bridge element for my griddle and a warming element. I couldn't sell induction to my DH b/c (1) our pots & pans wouldn't work on it, (2) he thought it was too new (it wasn't...it's been used here and in Europe for many, many years), and (3) it cost too much back then (prices have dropped significantly over the last few years). He's starting to come around now b/c I have a habit of overflowing pots and when food "cooks" on the cooktop, it's an extra effort to clean (it has to be scrubbed). This is an issue for all radiant electric cooktops, not a GE-specific issue. As to GE in general, my past experience has shown that GE makes good cooking appliances, so-so refrigerators & dryers, and not-so-good DWs & clothes washers.

This is going to be exciting....especially since it's earlier than originally planned! But a word of caution: Before you demolish your existing kitchen, you should have, at the very least, everything planned. Many here also say to have your cabinets already delivered in case there's a delay in manufacture or shipping or if there are problems with your order (wrong items, poor finish, etc.) You don't want to sit with an empty kitchen for two, three, four, or more months waiting for orders or reorders. However, there are pros & cons to starting with or without cabinets "in hand"--especially if you're taking walls down or expanding into other areas (it sounds like you're not). If it's basically a remove/replace, then the pros lean more heavily toward having them "in hand". You have your appliances, that's a good start. Now, do you have a design layout? (You cannot order cabinets w/o one.) Just a little juggling to smooth out a couple of inefficiencies. ...can be more than you realize--especially if you want to improve the functionality of your kitchen. I don't know your current layout, so I don't know what needs "juggling" (an example of something to look out for: an island should not be a "barrier island"...it should not be b/w the refrigerator, range, or sink) You'll also need to pick out your granite and find a good fabricator; ditto for your butcher block; pick out & order your sink(s), faucet(s), etc. Are you working w/a Kitchen Designer (KD)? Probably not if you're considering IKEA, but I thought I'd ask. If you are, s/he can usually help you through the process or at least help you w/the cabinet side of things. (Even IKEA has cabinet sales people who will try to help you.) Are you doing it yourself (DIY) or hiring a contractor? If you also have a General Contractor (GC), then s/he will also help you w/schedules & timelines, subcontractors, permits, inspections, etc. If you are DIYing it, many here have also DIY'd their kitchens and should be able to help. Good luck!