Alikhat, I see that you recently joined GardenWeb, welcome to the Tomato Forum. Everyone else that wants to read this post may want to grab a cuppa, it will probably be kinda long.  What part of California are you in? There's a lot of growing zones in California, all the way from 4a near Yosemite to Santa Monica's 11a. What works in one zone, may have no relevance to another zone. If you'd like answers from other GW members that are useful to you, its a good idea to include your location and/or zone in your profile so it shows on your posts. Now, on to the problems at hand. Even though kellogggarden.com lists their GARDNER & BLOOME® POTTING SOIL Natural & Organic For All Indoor & Outdoor Potting as "Ideal for indoor & outdoor potting, container planting, raised bed applications & an excellent addition to existing garden soil.” I have to wonder if that isn’t part of the issue. It is described as ”Organic, long-lasting ingredients including chicken manure, peat moss, worm castings & kelp meal. Perfectly balanced with essential plant nutrients & special water-saving formula features for excellent growth.” Mixes with manure in them tend to compact and not drain well. Your leaves could be droopy and the plants stunted from not enough air and too much water at the roots because of their water-saving feature and compaction of the growing medium. If you are in a zone like 5 or 6, and the weather has been cool, watering every other day may be fine. But, on the other hand if you are in zone 10 or 11, the plants may appear droopy because they aren’t getting enough water. GardenWebber sprouts_honor (Jennifer from Cleveland) had a wonderful suggestion on how to tell whether or not you need to water your tomatoes, and I quote here: ”Get a wooden dowel rod (or two) and sink it in the ground near a plant or two and leave it. Pull it out when you think you need to water. If the top is dry and the bottom is a little damp, it’s time to water. If it looks dark and feels saturated, wait to water. I use this technique with potted plants that don’t like being over watered and it’s helpful with in ground plants too.” If your moisture is right, it may likely be that your plants are starving. As edweather indicated, plants that are grown in any kind of container will need feeding more often than plants that are grown in the ground because each time they are watered, the water run off carries away vital nutrients. Many container growers will use a dilute solution of a liquid fertilizer every week or so depending on the condition of the plant. Additionally, they may not be able to utilize the nutrients in the “organic” mix you have them planted in because containers don’t usually have the “micro-herd” found in soil that helps plants use many types of micro-nutrients other than NPK. Looking at the stems of your plants, I am surprised the stems are not sturdier. When my tomato plants are that tall, the main stems look almost like small trees, and are 2 - 3 inches (or more) in diameter, the fine stems are possibly another indicator of the need for feeding more often. I don’t see any leaf roll, but I do see droopy leaves: When you've checked the moisture level of the growing medium 3-5" below the surface, you may have an aswer to what is going on with your plants. If it is soggy, they are drowning (and the paleness of the leaves could be an indicator) if it is dry, they need more water, if it is just right, something else is going on. Betsy

I know they aren't mis-labeled because I started them from seed. I just looked at the package and it says they are supposed to grow 2 oz tomatoes -- the ones I photographed each weighted in at 0.5 oz. I'm definitely thinking it's nutrient supply because I'm really not knowledgeable enough and I don't think I've been feeding enough. I used tomato tone when I transplanted and twice more, about every 3 weeks, although the tomatoes in the picture were picked before the 3rd application. Photos linked below. Thanks for the feedback. I'm looking forward to learning more from everyone! Here is a link that might be useful: Pictures of my Roma tomatoes

Tends to happen when the temps are cool at the time of pollination. Not a disease, and nothing you did. I remove most of my "ugly" catfaced/fused toms when young so the plant can put its energy into producing new fruit or focus its energy on the fruits that aren't jacked up looking.

when the tomatoes is done it will look like what you see in the store with the green sepal and pedicel stem part left on the top.. on the other end where you see the small dot that is the brown stuff you are seeing .. that brown stuff is the male anther cone and pedals parts.. and the tip of the stigma and style (female parts)... they dry up after the plant is polinated// We hope.. There is only a short time line for polination if that fails they will still dry up and fall off... the pollen from the anther cone has to get on the end of stigma so it can flow down the stlye into the ovary.. condition have to be right or the pollen will clump up or dry out.. if the green part called sepal is turning brown you have issues.. refer here again for names of parts... http://www.kdcomm.net/~tomato/Tomato/xingtom.html you will see the male parts dry up and shrink around the stigma and style that is why they just don't fall off... now the part you have to watch is the ovary to see if it is growing.. it is hard to tell but one day you will go out and say oh boy I'm a parent,, I had a bunch that turned brown and made a tiny tiny tiny tomato,, (very very small but the heat killed the plants along with the worms)... and it takes days to see some results cause you are growing a tomato from microscopic cells.. I wonder how fast the cells double... some days I'll get a grant an do a study... also I read somewhere it takes allot of pollen down into the overay so you will get a big tomato.. it may be bull but the more pollen the more seeds you get so the tomato has to be bigger to support the multi births of seed.. This is what I learned in my growing tomato class 101 this year... Don't worry I had the same question this year so I asked before and watch the plants grow... as far as I can tell the ovary is at the end of the pedicel but is also included a small way into it.. so when the ovary start to expand the pedicel will also expand is your pedicel staring to get erect and hard ?????????????????.. As some one else here said a watched tomato will never grow like the old staying a watched pot of water will never boil... hope this helps if anybody has anything to add jump in I'm just trying to pass on what you all helped me with even though my plants flopped