But manure from carnivoires is going to stink really bad and could have disease germs in it. Have you been within a few miles of a feed lot recently? Grass eater's manure stinks pretty good, too...and has germs in it. Why do people keep asking if different kinds of stuff can be composted? Because every spring the magazines hit the shelves with articles about composting which tell readers to not use certain materials in their compost. Some not all reptiles are natural carriers of pathogens that would not go well with use in any garden that you would eat the food. Yes, any manure can be composted but some animals carry things that should preclude being put in compost. One of the reasons for composting and the decomposition of waste materials is to grow a population of microbes that decompose the diseases. This must work or else we'd all be sick from some dinosaur disease that has not gone away.

That's okay. =) It's just that more people will actually see your question and respond if you put it on this part of the forum.

Thought this might help a bit =) Care Sheet for the Malaysian Cat Gecko ( Aeluroscalabotes felinus ) The Malaysian Cat Gecko, Aeluroscalabotes felinus , is a medium-sized gecko from the sub-family Aeluroscalabotinae . They inhabit a range that extends through Peninsular Malaysia, Singapore , Thailand , Kalimantan , Sarawak and Sabah . There is a known sub-species endemic to Indonesia , said to inhabit Sanana of the Sula Islands . This ssp. is known as A. f. multituberculatus . They prefer cooler temperatures and predominately inhabit montane forests or lower elevation areas that have moving bodies of water, such as stream beds and smaller rivers. They are designed with an arboreal lifestyle in mind. Entirely nocturnal, they have small retractable claws that are opposing each other. Females are always larger in the nominate species, up to 7 inches, whereas males are typically up to 4 inches in length. They are a rich coffee-colored brown, ranging to a bold rust coloration, with some vertebral striping. Most specimens in captivity today are wild-caught. Some come in very thin and emaciated. Because they are a gecko that retains fat in their tails as a means of survival, this is a good indicator of health when purchasing wild-caught animals. Upon receipt, they should be housed individually in a 10-gallon tank or similar sized glass or plastic enclosure. Substrate should consist of orchid bark or similar non-toxic mulch, mixed with clean soil. Cork bark tubes or flats provide daytime hides and smaller diameter branches for climbing are always appreciated. Provide a small water dish for adults. Live (check for toxicity) or synthetic plants complete the cage furnishings. Temperatures should range between 65-82F. Relative humidity should also be close to the same range, extending on the higher side at times, up to 90% for short periods. Misting is very important to the health and well-being of these geckos , it cannot be overlooked. They will develop a myriad of health issues if their humidity requirements are not met. Handheld bottle sprayers or automated misting systems are a must. All of my tanks are furnished with a combination temperature gauge/hygrometer to measure temps and relative humidity. Set them up individually, as they are a shy and reclusive species. Housing pairs would only be for breeding purposes, and this should not be tried until the acclimation period is over( typically 4 to 6 weeks), and that will be part of another discussion. Feeding and watering are key, and feeding should be done every other day in very small amounts, 2-4 small food items per gecko. Vitamin supplementation should be used carefully, every third feeding at most . Early keepers had specimens that had renal problems, and water and supplementation were suspects. Use filtered or reverse osmosis (RO) type water as a means to hydrate your A. felinus . Your ability to properly hydrate your new charge will mean everything to your new gecko. If you mist daily (do not saturate), feed accordingly, provide correct temps, and use quality water, you will be granted the privilege of owning and properly caring for one of the most unique geckos to date. Copyright © Marcus Quesada

Hey! =) First of thanks for the welcome! =) Seperating the bottom sheet of glass took good old fashion hard work, I actually had to break the bottom sheet of glass to get it off, then it was just a matter of stripping the silicone off with a razor, just spayed the glass with water (used a mister) slid the razor accross and the silicone came right off, did the same with the top of the second tank, removed the black frame and stripped the silicone of the same way described above, as for the seam, 90% of the people that have seen the tank dont even notice it, it looks much like the corner seams, I just glued the tanks together and stipped the silicone after it cured, its just like art, usually the only person to notice the imperfection is the artist! LOL! (but we sure do worry about it! LOL!) I havnt posted any pics yet, but will soon, I think your idea on using a 150 is fantastic! I had/have one available to me but dont have the room for it, I live in what was called a "doll house" at the time they were built, so you can imagine how small it is, but if I could! oh yeah! Good luck with your idea, Im not the best, but if you have any questions, or get stuck somewhere while putting your tank together....two heads are better than one!