You don't say if they have developed large onion bulbs or not. If they have, and they are falling over, they are finishing up and all is well. Onions usually stay green after falling, the shouldn't turn yellow/brown like garlic until after harvesting. If this is the case, let them sit for another week to finish sizing up and then harvest. However, if they haven't bulbed but are falling, you do have a problem.

Paula, Your description using the words 'white' leads towards a fungal disease like downy mildew or powdery mildew or something similar that is fungal in nature on your squash plants. In any case, the solution is to begin a regular spray program with a fungicide labeled for use on vegetables. You could use a fungicide containing Chlorothalonil (Daconil) and there are many, including but not limited to Ortho Garden Fungicide. I don't remember the name of the one commonly sold at Wal-Mart, but it is in a red bottle with a yellow cap and label and says GardenTech Daconil Fungicide on the label. If you garden organically and do not want to use a chemical fungicide, then you could use a copper-based fungicide like Kocide. The best way to control any fungal disease is to alternate the spraying of both Daconil and Kocide. An alternating spray program lessens the likelihood that the fungal diseases will develop resistance to either copper or Daconil. As far as the tomato goes, I have doubts about your diagnosis and please don't take offense at that, because I often have doubts about my own diagnosis of tomato diseases. Many, many of the common tomato diseases have symptoms that are very close and almost even identical to one another so it can be difficult to figure out what you have on a plant, and to make it even worse, often you'll have two or more things happening at the same time which further muddies the picture. So, let's talk about the tomatoes further. If it were Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus, you would see brown stipping on the leaves and perhaps some brown streaking on terminal stems. As the disease progressed, you'd see brownish to purplish ringspots on some leaves, though not necessarily on all and sometimes there's not many of those. Tomato Spotted Wilt sometimes appears on one side of the plant only. If TSWV hits your plants early, they normally don't even form fruit. If TSWV hits your plants late after they have already set fruit, you normally will see obvious ringspots (light green on green fruit, turning yellowish on ripening fruit) on fruit and any fruit that manages to mature will have an off-flavor that's not pleasant. Look at the photo of TSWV below and see it it fits you plants? Odds are that it does not, and that's a good thing. Verticillium is a possibility, but both it and early blight share some common symptoms, so let's discuss the difference in the two. With both VW and EB, you'll have yellow blotches on the lower leaves. If you have EB, the yellowing is followed by the appearance of more or less circular to somewhat oval brown spots that develop the telltale bullseye target type rings in shades of brown. With VW, the brown spots are less definite in shape and there's no bullseye rings. Usually, with VW, you'll see a sort of chocolate brown coloration in some leaf veins (on the ones that are yellowing) and then the chocolate-colored irregular leaf spotting. Leaves will wilt and fall off with VW, but also will eventually do that with EB as well. If it is VW, plants usually stunt and stop growing normally, with the most affected foliage at the bottom of the plant and the healthy foliage at the top only. With EB, the plant continues growing and even often puts out new lower growth to replace the affected lower leaves, especially if you manually remove the lower leaves instead of waiting for them to fall off on their own. The only way I know to confirm Verticillium Wilt at home is to remove the plant (and I am not suggesting you need to do this), then make a vertical slice in the main stem at the place where the stem emerged from the soil line. Inside the stem, you'd see a brown coloration in the interior conducting tissue that lies under the exterior part of the stem. So, first let's rule out TSWV if we can. Look at a few of the photos below and tell me if they resemble your plant. I'm willing to bet they don't. And, if you have TSWV, it is spread by thrips and likely would pop up on multiple plants as they traveled from one to another. For what it is worth, without seeing your plants, I'd bet on Early Blight, and maybe some combination of Septoria Leaf Spot and/or bacterial spot or speck. None of them will kill a plant in general if you start spraying with the same fungicide mentioned above for the squash plants. The disease may not go away, but the Daconil or Kocide would keep it from spreading and worsening. My plants have some early blight this year, but a lot of septoria leaf spot (which I don't see real often here) popped up after we had over an inch of rain on 2 days about 6 days apart. For what it is worth, many gardeners confuse the early symptoms of Septoria leaf spot with spotted wilt because both have round circular spotting on the leaves. That's one reason I want for us to see if we can determine if it really is TSWV first. TSWV is very serious, while Septoria leaf spot is not nearly so serious, so getting the diagnosis right is very important. I see Septoria Leaf Spot in almost every wet year we have, so I know I saw a little of it in 2007 and a lot in 2004. I've only seen TSWV once or twice because it is, thankfully, a lot more rare. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Google Results for Tomato Spotted Wilt

I love a mystery. I vacuumed out my tower this morning. I still had a problem where some websites would open and some would just be blank....with that yellow triangle warning down in the left hand corner. Soooo I did a system restore back a couple of days. Right now, everything is working fine. The only thing I can think of is that I interrupted an uninstall of a trial version of Adobe 8 Pro and didn't finish the uninstall. That's the only odd thing that I can think of. Mystery is the bell. That would denote a hardware problem to me....but...? And I couldn't find one single reference to a bell ringing in the tower (except real bells in real towers, LOL). I can't be the only person with a bell in my puter. It's not under warranty anymore so I'll just take a wait and see attitude for now. Thanks all for your comments.

closest description is the rhizoctonia large patch shown here- http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7497.html it does seem to get a white spider web like look about it in the yellow patches. what practices in the future will best control recurrence and what fungicide could be used to control it now? thanks.