I would tend toward a somewhat different approach. I may be projecting, because I live under a big evergreen that I regard as a thug for the control it has over my property (it belongs to the neighbour, and they have promised to take it down this year - Yaaay!), but I sense that you are feeling somewhat oppressed by these trees. I don't think that people should feel oppressed on their own properties. I would begin by considering that they probably do have some value as a windbreak; I always suggest living in a place long enough to understand why previous owners might have done what they did. Then I would consider whether you have any that are in danger of falling on your house (doesn't look like it from the aerial photo, but with thousands of trees down from winter storms here in BC, we think about these things). Then comes the question: how big do I intend for these trees to get? The idea of taking out the little ones so the already big ones can grow bigger is nice for the trees... but is it nice for you? Where do you want shade? Will the biggest trees provide the best windbreak, or would it be better for that purpose to take out the biggest ones and replace them? I'd also mention, taking a moment to acknowledge that Nandina has a lot more experience than I do, that gardening under trees is not always easy. Azaleas may be different from the woodland plants that I try to grow in that they may actually thrive in those conditions; my plants don't. Not even ferns. They can't seem to get a drop of moisture or molecule of nourishment under the tree. On the issue of the holly, I think that from an aesthetic point of view the best thing about the tree is its skirt. I'm not a holly person so have no idea if I'm speaking sacrilege here, but I have to say that if you remove the skirt, to my eye you might as well remove the tree. But if holly sprouts from old wood perhaps you would be able to narrow the cone somewhat?

There are a number of ways to approach your land planning. If I remember correctly, this is a second home. It sounds as though you want to develop a self sustaining property. Okay...let's tackle the two major problems first. Heavy winds that blow slate roof off. I can't promise you that any windbreak is going to solve this problem. Suggest that on the very wet, windward side of property you plant just one tree variety in three staggered rows; Bald cypress(Taxodium distichum). Toward the house side, about 40' from the trees install two rows of grapes spaced 20' apart (or so you can run a mower between comfortably). (Note: Always keep ease of mowing in mind when you add anything to a large property.) Think of the grapes as a windbreak, also. They would not have to be grown with the usual precision of pruning, etc. Just the foliage controlled as needed. Should you desire, plant in front of the grapes a mixed shrub border. Raise them up on a slight berm above water table. Viburnums, blueberries, even dwarf fruit trees could be grown on this berm. If wind is a summer problem then veggie garden would probably have to be enclosed with a solid board fence, dwarf fruit trees espaliered along the outside. Garden might be best situated in the square formed by barn and shed, as wide as you want to make it. If the deer find you it may be necessary to install an electric fence outside the garden area to prevent them from fence jumping. The 'V' between the sidewalks by the house looks like a spot for a parterre garden of kitchen herbs plus an ornamental, small tree, limbed up, planted at the sidwalk 'V'. Trees along curving drive...Donald Wymann flowering crab. Beautiful used in this manner. Bright red apples hang on all winter. A more upright growing ornamental tree than many of the other crab trees. Just a few quick thoughts for you. Your best advisors are neighboring farmers who know the territory. This Forum really cannot be of much help to you.

1) Volume 2) If you're using Reptibark (or prescreened 1/8-1/4" other conifer bark), Turface/calcined DE, and grower grit (no crushed shellfish shells), all you'll need is insect screen to eliminate the fines. If you're screening your own pine bark, you'll also need 1/2" and 18" screen. Ask for hardware cloth at hardwares or big box stores. Real hardwares probably sell it by the foot. 3) You may not need the extra water retention, but if you do you can use 3 Turface or DE 2 bark 2 grit or the next step would be 3 bark 4 Turface or DE 2 grit I don't, but you can if you want. When it gets really hot, you'll want to reduce the amount of fertilizer you use, and you can't do that using CRFs. If you do use one, try to be sure it's as close to a 3:1:2 ratio as possible and that it contains all the essential nutrients, including Ca & Mg - most don't. I like Foliage-Pro with the gritty mix because it has everything in the right ratio and it doesn't utilize urea as it's N source, which is a considerable plus for houseplants. Al

Outsmarting the tree rats (squirrels) around my house is a full time job. This past spring I hit on a new idea. When I plant a container I invert an empty wire hanging basket over the container and the plant gets sun and can be watered but the squirrels can't dig in it. Another idea: I bring in a lot of plants to "over winter" under lights in my garage. I have so many that it is hard to reach my hand under the lights (4 shop lights) to the middle for watering. So I bought a pump sprayer with a long wand and it works great! In late winter I add a little liquid Dawn detergent, few drops, to each gallon of water and not only does the soil get wet easier but the worms that are waiting to hatch into distructive pets just don't hatch. Don't know what it costs me to run those four shop lights all winter but I don't care. It is a small price to pay to be able to "garden" every weekend in the garage. Many people have mentioned that they mark their outdoor plants with a "permanent Sharpie". In my experience there isn't a "permanent Sharpie", they all fade and quickly too. A grease pencil/china marker or expensive "no fade" garden center marker are the only markers I have found that won't disappoint you by fading. Eight years ago I decided to learn about gardening so I tapped into my local library. I checked out nearly every book they had on gardening and learned so much. The Gardenweb forums are also a wealth of information and entertainment. There is always something new to learn and I appreciate all of you who take the time to write in your ideas. One last idea from me...I keep a small notebook on my computer table and jot down any idea I find that's new and I will want to try. Little pieces of paper get lost but I always know where my notebook is and also use it when I order "on line" so I will remember the name of the company and the order date. Tina or Trowelgal