David, at least you are staying out of that other exotic Asian dove location, "This site is for consenting adults only and should only be accessed by adults over the age of 21." Or did you? I'm not sure if there is any "native" plant invasive in my yard or garden. Amongst the dozens of weeds, they're all from the "old world" (& then there's your Russian olive). I don't have a good excuse for the pleasure I had at learning that the black locust trees are considered invasive in western Europe. The islands are terribly impacted but we're told that the development of so many useful domestic species is a result of the size and diversity of the Eurasian landmass. The Suez canal or not, Africa is a part of that same landmass. Over in the tomato forum, Carolyn linked to an article on genetic diversity. The authors' idea was that one of the reasons for problems of low resistance to pests in the older varieties was that the tomato gene pool was isolated in Europe by limited importation of tomato seed centuries ago. Utilizing new strains from South America in plant breeding wasn't undertaken until the 1950's. Genes from resistant varieties were very successfully made use of after that. Also, hybrid vigor is significant in those older crosses. Seems like it sometimes takes the people of the old world to take what is here and then give it back to us in a more appreciated form. The Russell lupin is an example but I'm not sure what the people or fauna of New Zealand think of the lupin invading acres of land there. Or, what they think about the American wild turkey or California Valley quail, for that matter. I believe you make some use of the German brown trout and where'd these Chinese ring-neck pheasants come from? The wild turkey is around here in what must be record numbers. I doubt if it was ever here prehistorically. With global warming, maybe we'll get that lesser goldfinch up here. But, will the Bohemian waxwing still come south from Canada every Winter? Oh, gosh. I'd fly away myself out of sheer nervousness but where would I go? Steve's digits

lpinkmountain I wonder if you might have rosacea. (By the way, please forgive me...I'm not a dermatologist at all but just am someone who all of a sudden developed a kind of blotchy bumpy skin.) When I went to the dermatologist for my yearly check up (I've become really good about this), she told me that I have rosacea. If that's the case with you, there are very specific things that should be used on the skin and equally specific things to avoid. Actually, I've saved money on skin stuff because the dr. told me that the best cleaner for my skin is Cetaphil (cheap) and that the Oil of Olay products are good as well. Her comment was that they have good chemists working for them. I'm to avoid Retin-A (boo hoo) and to wear a really good sun block. Vanicream (another cheapie) sunblock was also recommended. I don't wear much makeup but did have a couple of Bobbie Brown products left over from my daughter's wedding a few years ago. The doctor told me that those were OK to use because there wasn't anything in them that shouldn't go on the face. Good luck. Regarding skin, I figure that my eyes are getting worse just at the right time because I can't see all of the imperfections without my glasses. So...I just don't wear them!

Even though chinch bugs go after stressed lawns during drought, many times too much nitrogen will compromise the immune system of the turf and invite them to a feast. This time of year is not the time to apply nitrogen fertilizer, even organics such as Milorganite; too much N will aggravate the situation as to bugs and fungus, especially Brown Patch. Also, Flea beetles are mistaken for chinch bugs but are solid black and shinny and are appear to jump around (they are harmless to the grass). Chinch bugs adults are dull black with white markings that cross on their backs. With all the water that's going on, the roots are probably rotting off due to disease and lack of oxygen from the soil being so compacted. Once the soil is allowed to dry for several days, go with 2 days per week as someone suggested but be alert to shut off the sprinklers when an adequate rain of at least 1/2 inch occurs. There is a ban on nitrogen and phosphate-containing fertilizers in the summer months anyway. If you dyi, try applying a chelated trace element spray. My best advice is to hire a well-recommended licensed lawn professional to inspect the lawn and make the proper treatment.

What kind of grass do you have? I'm wondering if these are really the conditions that lead to what would appear to be a widespread fungal attack. If I read right, you had lots of rain in April/May, then mostly dry and hotter into the second or third week of June with some rain here and there. If you have ever measured how much water actually falls during a typical rain you'd be surprised that it can be practically nothing, which doesn't help drought stressed grass. Maybe I shouldn't be commenting because I'm not a fungus expert, but I have been following the various fungus discussions and am learning. Frankly, to me, I don't see much of a fungal outbreak. I think your lawn is drought stressed, and looks like most of the lawns here in sunny and dry NJ. One of the clues to me is that your dead grass closeups show nice new blemish free grass coming up in the middle. Presumably you've gotten more water recently. According to morpheus, grass typically has some small amount of fungal attack all the time. It is just kept in check normally. In contrast, here is a thread where somebody has plucked grass out and taken some good quality photos. These definitely look like fungal problems, assuming these aren't 1 in 1000 blades. I just don't see anything that bad in your photos. Maybe you should treat it anyway because if it really is fungus then maybe better safe than sorry. http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1509505/please-help-lawn-burn-brown-patch-other Also, it is odd that you had dead spots from people walking on the lawn. That shouldn't happen. If you want to get the lawn in good health, it is best to start at the beginning with a soil test from Logan Labs. Post the results in this forum and morpheus will eventually make recommendations for you.