I am going to keep it outdoors in the small container this season, fertilize with high potassium fertilizer and give it a sunny window for winter. Just in case.... If no flower stalk appears, I will repot in a 15 inch container and treat it as foliage houseplant.

It reminds me of a banana tree. Not an expert and hard to tell with it drooping like that, but thought I'd throw that out there. I agree that it is tropical. Also with what others have said, any houseplant that is accustomed to being indoors is going to do poorly to suddenly be put outside. The changes in light and temperature can quickly damage the plant. You have to put it out at the right time, not March where I live, and then gradually get it used to the change in light by first putting it in shade and increasing the amount of sun gradually. And adding fertilizer to a plant that is already stressed, is making matters worse. When you say normally, you keep it in a large SE window. How long have you had it? Was it doing okay without drooping when it was in the window? Did it just dry out and that was when it started to droop? If you haven't done so already, I would do what Flora suggested and soak it at the kitchen sink and let it sit there and drain and then keep it in the house out of the sun until it stops drooping. If that works out, then I'd suggest you bring it to a nursery and have the plant evaluated.

any idea when the patio was installed.. or the wall.. any new construction.. which is hard for a new owner to answer.. but often neighbors can tell you .. ALL plants shed old leaves.. its annual.. and cyclical.. often increasing in bad years.. and the oldest are always the lowest ... so it doesnt surprise anyone you had lost at least a few ... also....usually happens in fall or winter.. as the declination of the sun increases.. its going into winter.. even in San diego ... dying tissue.. like on old leaves the tree is shedding.. do weird thing.s. and they basically compost in mid air.. until you prune them off.. there should be no reason to 'treat' such.. you just prune ... do yo have a lot of experience with these plants... are your observations learned??... or freaking out .. lol ... i know nothing about these as backyard plants.. but as for trees.. i would rarely think bark or trunk issues are a problem that needs to be solved.. and with leaves that huge.. i would expect at least a few of them to be marred or scarred ... in other words.. to my eye.. your plant look magnificent.. and im hoping you arent just on the edge of loving it to death by apply too much love ... i may be entirely wrong.. and i will defer if someone comes along and says otherwise.. if no one comes along.. you do have a COUNTY extension office.. and you can contact them for local advice ... like they might tell you that the current drought is making them all look like this .. we would never know about that ... ken

Important: * Does the pot have a drain hole to let excess water out of the pot? * Is there a collection saucer under the pot to catch any water that flows out of the drain hole, and does the pot sit in the collection saucer? This is an example of what a collection saucer (on the bottom) might look like: Notice the pot sits above any water that collects in the saucer. There is nothing you've said so far to make me think the problem is anything but over-watering. The moisture level at the top of the soil isn't important. What IS important is what the moisture level is deep in the pot - at the bottom. Read below about how to use a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water. It is a very simple but useful and accurate tool, and easy to make. The wooden tool below, bottom row second from the right side, is used here as a root pick, but it is exactly the same as what a "tell" looks like, except a tell is usually longer, maybe 60cm. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al