Pitcom, I could only find one online resource that mentioned this, and it really gives no explanation. I will include the link anyway. The only other sources I have are word of mouth from farmers, in my area and the area my parents live in as well as up in Maine. Explanations have included thinning of the cell walls, loss of the antifreezing properties of their tissues due to heat exposure, or just general tenderness of the rapidly formed new growth. Again, this seems to be something that doesn't normally happen, so I guess it hasn't really been studied. At the risk of being obvious,something is happening this year that seems to be so far outside the norm that the various weather predictors are off, sometimes by by a considerable amount (my personal record here was 18 degrees off from predicted to recorded). It's like Mother Nature is saying "put this in your simulations and model it!" Normally, and I mean for many years, I have found my local weather to be consistently accurate within 5 degrees... Anyway, we seem to be heading into a stretch of weather that looks normal, so maybe it is all settling down? Sorry for your losses, it is really frustrating. Here's the link, the mention is right in the first paragraph. Here is a link that might be useful: Freeze after heat

Hi everyone! Regardeng BLACKBERRIES, we, on the opposie side of the pool, have the same problems of OVERWINTERING the canes and the flower buds. Admittedly I yet have no own experience as I got interested in blackberries only this fall when discovered the existance of the new thornles and prolific varieties. So I read all that was worth reading in the Russian and US internet, especially the rather high-profile specialised forums of our blackberry enthusiasts.. I discovered that throughout Russia and Kazakhstan which both have areas with very serious frosts blackberry growing in those is nevertheless quite successful. Maybe someone here would benefit from their experience same as e.g. you grow plums of Russian origin such as ptitsin and fofanoff. Apparently Blackberries can bring huge yealds in climates with very low winter temps, even downing to -40C for rather ptolonged periods. The TECHNIQUE below allows overwintering without much problem. Plus some easy principles to follow. 1. All blackberries need to be laid down and covered for the winter, preferably after the first frost when the land is frozen. To ensure that this task is easy and hassle free: 2. Choose thornless varieties only. Those with thorns are said to be hell to lay and cover. 3. In early summer watch for the new canes (primocanes) to emerge. As soon as a shoot reaches 15-20cm carefully bend it 90 degrees and secure with a metal peg. When the cane grows another 40-60cm, secure it parallel to the ground with yet another peg. After it reaches 1 m let it grow as it will but better tie to the lowest string of the trellis Which gets them out of the way. Do not tip the ends as this would increase the leaf mass. Do the bending for all the emerging primocanes. 4. In autumn at the time of first frosts when all the fruiting canes have long been cut down lay the primocanes in lines stretched along one side of the trellis. Peg them to the ground, cover with two layers of 60g/m2 thick white non-woven fabric and secure all sides to the ground with no holes. This is said to help greatly even if serious frosts come before the snow. In milder and wetter climates they also put a plastic film layer on top of the fabric, leaving however the end bits open so there is always air circulation. The advice here is to experiment as all natural circumstaces differ. 5. Take off the cover layers gradually, and completely only after all danger of frost is over. By then the canes are likely to bear some yourg leaves and side shoots, but this is ok. Raise them carefully as the canes of come varieties are brittle, and tie to the trellis. 5. Winer frosts may not be a problem for blackberries, but summers need to be warm or hot. The shorter and milder/cooler the summers, the earlier fruiting varieties should be chosen. 6. Floricane varieties like PA Freedom in cooler and shorter summer climates may very sucessfully fruit if treated in the same way as other primocanes, i.e. as above, in a two-year culture. They would be one of the earliest to perform. If you have any questions do feel free to write me, I will try to help with more information. cathpetro at gmail dot com.

Low chill is only a good thing in low chill areas. In an area where chill hours accumulate rapidly, a low chill tree will break dormancy long before it is safe for the tree to do so.

Bartram's Gardens is amazing, especially considering that it's located in one of the worst areas of the city.