I can't spray in strong winds either. I bet you don't have any PC scars yet and they won't show up until the wind subsides. Den, my point is that during periods where spraying is not tenible, insect activity tends to be low. The message was intended to give hope (not to brag at your expense) because I know how crazy it can make you trying to get spray down in difficult conditions. I don't sleep a lot in early spring- believe me, but if I only had a couple hours of spraying to do it wouldn't be too difficult. RW, nearby flowering shrubs can be covered with tarps.

Harryshoe's image is an adult Cooper's. You are correct, kathy9norcal. Note the tubular chest, thick legs, squared head, "Roman" nose, and eyes that are set back from the bill. Tail tip is an unreliable markon a perched bird (so I have learned through experience) due to feather position/wear. Also, on your Cooper's, second pic down- this adult bird has a pale nape to the neck. That is a good mark for a Cooper's. An adult Sharp-shinned has a dark nape of the neck that makes the Sharpies appear "hooded" rather than "capped". Cooper's appear capped.

It looks from here to be a juvenile Cooper's Hawk, as already stated. The tail on Accipiters is long with wide bands, and this bird has that. As for the differences between Accipiters, juvenile Cooper's Hawks have fine brown chest streaks that usually come short of the belly, and this bird has that. So, good call.

I wouldn't worry about starting any seed earlier than the winter solstice that specifically needs cold stratification to break dormancy, example: shrubs and several natives most of which commonly specify instructions to sow in fall. When in doubt I usually refer to one of the germination charts you can easily find online. From experience both I and a friend of mine have had some types of seeds rot if winter sown in containers in our warmer & inconsistently cold/warm winters, especially the smaller seeds that lack harder outer coverings. Its not warm enough (70 degrees average) for them to germinate but sitting in that long period of damp soil certainly doesn't do them any good. These same seeds came easily when sowed at the proper temp and tested as having high germination rates in a damp paper towel test. It was not the end of the world since we had extra seeds but we both decided we'd wasted time and had some empty containers that never sprouted anything at all treated that way. We knew it wasn't bad seed, just bad timing for us here in the south. Most hardy annuals and perennials do best sown in early fall here since they germinate well in those milder temperatures, they have time to put out good root growth, can be planted in the ground and spend winter as a healthy green rosette ready to take off early spring with a huge head start over those sown in winter or spring. I believe different rules apply south of the Mason Dixon line and what works well up north doesn't necessarily work the same further south.