Fertilizer provides much of the raw material (nutrients) that allows plants to keep their systems in order, to manufacture their own food, and to grow. Without the essential nutrients present in the soil and available to the plant, plants will rob them from other tissues and exhibit symptoms of a nutrient shortage. In containers, you'll often see older leaves yellow & fall from a lack of nitrogen. The plant is actually extracting the mobile N from older leaves, sacrificing them in effect, to supply it to newly emerging leaves. Nutrients that are not mobile, will often manifest symptoms that indicate a shortage in new leaves. As long as a plant is actively growing, it will utilize the nutrients in fertilizer. As temperatures drop below 50* F, the plant slows growth & thus its use of N. When plants are not using N, it is better to keep its concentration lower. It can feed the bacteria that causes root rot and it also feeds the bacteria that breaks down the structure of the soil. For containerized trees & shrubs I usually alternate feedings about every 2 weeks with 5-1-1 fish emulsion then 20-20-20 MG, Peter's, or a similar product. As temperatures begin to cool (in Sep in my zone) I eliminate the N from my fertilizer program and change to a 0-10-10 blend of either fish emulsion or a chemical mix. Because I use an organic 5-1-1 in my summer program, there is ample residual N in the soil as winter approaches & the plants fare very well on the altered diet. I can see no difference between chemical fertilizers and organics. Both work well in containers. In spring, if you are looking for maximum growth, fertilize as leaf buds are opening or for conifers, as candles begin elongating. If you wish your plants to remain more compact, hold spring applications until leaves have formed & matured or candles have stopped elongating & are open. This will keep internodes short, leaves smaller, and provide nutrients when the tree is concentrating on cambial (girth) and root growth. I am seeing frequent advice to use grass clippings only, as fertilizer in containers. I'm sorry, but if it was an effective method of nutrient delivery, because the supply is unlimited and free, every greenhouse or nursery operation in the world would be stuffing their containers with grass. One of the main attributes of a sound fertilizer program is the growers control over delivery timing and quantity/type of nutrients. Obviously this is lacking in the grass clipping suggestion. There are additional issues that would be associated with the practice as well. Good luck. Al

Mine look a bit like this, too. I bought them from the local organic farm, and didn't get them into the ground right away. Then a few days went past. They wilted, and all of that. I just got them in the ground, and watered them last night and this morning. I only have marigolds in the bed with them, as I haven't decided what else to plant there, yet. I am thinking dill and lettuce. Would mixing this:Mix 3 tablespoons of cider vinegar (5% acidity) with one gallon water and spray in the morning on infested plants. Good for black spot on roses and aspen trees too.---is that enough to help this?

Do it. You pass the test in flying colours. Best of luck. ARIF

Yeah, I started my broccoli from seed too late this winter, and it bloomed last week on that warm day, so it's pretty much out of the question this late. Like 'mams' said, I just planted seeds for carrots, potatoes, and radishes. Some baby lettuce and spinach, but I'm not sure they'll produce much before it warms up... Your summer plants (tomatoes, beans, cucumber, peppers) can be started from seed inside, but not put out until it stays reliably over 50-55 at night, usually late April or early May (especially peppers, they need that warmth). Being very lazy, I will not start inside, I'll just put seed in the ground in April or buy seedlings in April. For seeds, that shortens the length of production and harvest, but as I said, lazy. Nurseries and hardware stores are starting to stock pepper/tomato/bean seedlings now, but it's pretty early. They will mostly survive, but waiting a bit will get you healthier, more productive plants. As for zuchs, you can plant seeds directly outside as early as now. They are a bit more cold tolerant than the other summer standards. If buying zuch seedlings, maybe not now, but sooner than the others (early april?) On a side note, I'm trying brussels sprouts here in Sunnyvale for the first time. I planted in fall, and they've been sort of overwintering (not growing much, but staying alive). Does anyone know if I they will still grow into summer? I've always thought of them as not very heat tolerant, and If they're gonna end up not producing anything, I could use the space for the afore mentioned zucchini seed planting...