Safe, organic treatment for Septoria?
nygardener
13 years ago
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korney19
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agonygardener
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Safe termite control for organic garden
Comments (24)I know I'm late to the discussion. Fipronil trench is a perfect solution to preventing termites from getting into your walls. It is a very labor intensive job, and a homeowner can accomplish this if dedicated to the job. In conjunction to this, exercise the bait stations in and around the perimeter of your house. You can also create your own termite killing bait stations. Get some pine garden stakes, a 5 gallon bucket. Mix a super concentrated solution of fipronil in some water, soak the garden stakes in the solution for several weeks, occasionally stir the solution with the stakes about every 2-3 days. Hammer stakes in the ground around your house. Termites cannot detect the fipronil, will eat on the stakes, bring the poison back to the colony and destroy the hive. Use the old solution of fipronil around dark damp areas surrounding your home to amend your barrier. Agee with other post; the chemical deterrent barriers simply don't work and the termites will find the area that is deficient in treatment, whereas the undetectable barrier is the Trojan horse. You can find this stuff on domyownpestcontrol.com or Amazon Love that website. BTW, I use Taurus SC as opposed the more expensive Termidor SC. Now, back to the question. How do I keep the termites out of my garden, and to stop eating away at the planter box. Here is my intentions. On the bottom of the planter, spread a grip load of diatomaceous earth down nice and even with special attention around the wood areas, lay a weed block barrier down. Apply a plastic barrier between the planter box and the garden dirt (stapled). Wet the planter box boards and rub diatomaceous earth (DE) on the boards (use rubber gloves), and as you work your way to the top of keep pouring DE between the plastic sheet and boards. Cover the top of the boards with the plastic sheet to the other side and down about an inch. The diatomaceous earth (if ingested by any bug, will rip their intestines apart and keep grub and termites from coming from the bottom of your planter). Not sure if this is going to work, but it is plausible in my mind. In one growing season, the termites have eaten about halfway through my pine 2x10's! Nasty critters....See MoreAre Lawn Treatments Safe?
Comments (21)Some comments from above: "These chemicals have been around for a long time, and I have never heard of anyone, or any pets getting sick from them. They were tested in labs for toxicity and carcinogenicity, and wouldn't be for sale if they were truly dangerous. The lawn care company should have giving you a pamphlet on when it will be ok for your dog to go in the yard. In reality the amount of chemical they use is very small, a few ounces per thousand square feet. As another example, golf courses routinely spray fungicides, herbicides and fertilizers much more frequently than any home lawn. If these chemicals were dangerous then you would see pro golfers suffering from the effects as they are exposed almost every day of their adult lives." --a "common sense" perspective that reflects almost no real knowledge of the subject, zero understanding of how longterm low exposure to toxins can't be traced to the source, and particularly, blind faith in chemical "regulation." " Anything that is sprayed on your lawn has been tested and shown to not statistically be an issue to human health. That doesn't mean 100% safe. It means 99.99.." --More BS, fake reassurance from abusing statistics. "It just occured to me that sometimes my dog eats grass. Will that be a problem?" You should read: http://realestate.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=21618627 "If you love your dog stop the lawn chemicals immediately. I do not want to start a turf war here but as an example of how unsafe they are, they have been completely banned in Canada." --That's simply a fact, and it should tell you something. " If it was a significant issue it would have been on Sixty Minutes already." --Only if the TV show, station owners, and their sponsors have no connection to the petroleum, chemical, or drug industries. Little chance of that, at least in the USA. "Golf Course Superintendents Face Higher Cancer Rates" --Excellent article from the American Journal of Industrial Medicine, though the cohort worked in a contaminated environment in the years before 1992. I can just imagine what kind of dangerous chemicals are being used now. I posted a question on Yahoo Answers asking how safe it is to use these chemicals, and if it's unclear (but clear in some cases) whether it's harmful to humans, pets, and the environment how could they keep using them? The only answer I got was someone basically saying, Because landscapers have jobs. Welcome to the USA. Number one priority: PROFIT. Here is a link that might be useful: Read about Lawn-care chemicals This post was edited by peterk312 on Thu, Aug 29, 13 at 7:36...See Moresafe/organic prevention for japanese beetles
Comments (16)"Natural Controls Many kinds of birds such as bobwhites, eastern kingbirds, crows, European starlings, redwinged blackbirds, catbirds, songsparrows, robins and grackles eat Japanese beetles. European starlings, common grackles and crows eat large numbers of grubs in heavily infested areas. When grubs are close to the surface, flocks of starlings may be seen on lawns and pastures digging up grubs with their long, pointed bills. Crows frequently pull up small pieces of turf and scatter them over a lawn as they dig. Moles, shrews and skunks also feed on white grubs. These animals can damage lawns as they search for grubs. Predaceous insects such as wheel bugs, robber flies and praying mantids occasionally feed on adult beetles. A few native wasps and flies also feed on beetle adults or grubs, but they appear to play only a minor part in beetle control. Several parasitic wasps, flies and beetles have been imported from the Orient in an attempt to control the beetle in the United States with only limited success. Milky Spore Disease Milky spore disease is a bacterial disease that kills Japanese beetle grubs. Spores of this bacterium are produced commercially and sold under the names of Doom,, Japidemic, and Milky Spore. The application of milky spore may reduce the numbers of Japanese beetle grubs in lawns but beetles will fly in from other areas to damage plants and crops. Research trials using this approach to reduce grub numbers in turf have given very erratic results. The disease does not kill other types of grubs that damage turf. See ENT-10, Controlling White Grubs for additional information. Collecting Beetles Hand collecting obviously is not the most effective method of control, but can be used to protect valuable plants when beetle activity is relatively low. The presence of beetles on a plant attracts more beetles. When you remove beetles daily by hand from a plant, only about half as many are attracted to that plant compared to those on which beetles are allowed to accumulate. One of the easiest ways to remove beetles from small plants is to shake the plants early in the morning (about 7 a.m.) when temperatures are low and the beetles sluggish. The beetles may be killed by shaking them into a bucket of soapy water. Trapping Beetles In recent years commercial or homemade traps have become a popular means of trying to reduce beetle numbers. Commercially available traps attract the beetles with two types of baits. One mimics the scent of virgin female beetles and is highly attractive to males. The other bait is a sweet-smelling food-type lure that attracts both males and females. This combination is such a powerful and effective attractant that traps can draw in thousands of beetles in a day. Only a portion of the beetles attracted to traps are caught in them. Small number of traps in a home landscape can actually increase Japanese beetle problems rather than reduce them." "Traps may be effective in reducing Japanese beetle problems if used throughout a neighborhood or in open areas well away from valuable plantings or vulnerable crops. In most home landscape situations, using 1 or 2 traps probably will do more harm than good." http://www2.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/entfactpdf/ef409.pdf H.Kuska comment: I grew about 1000 roses in a no spray garden. I used milkey spore, beneficial nematodes, and birdhouses / bird feeders. I did not eliminate Japanese beetles, but the population did reach an equilibrium that I could live with. Here is a link that might be useful: link to above information...See Moreseptoria leaf spot, bacterial leaf spot, neither?
Comments (7)From the research I've just been doing on my early blight, which is what I see on yours (not the dreaded late blight), you need to get ALL of the affected leaves off there, because the spores are easily transferred from leaf to leaf, and yes, continue spraying. Serenade is an organic spray that's often recommended, and Daconil is also very popular (I don't know if it's organic though). And when you pluck off all those leaves (very carefully, so as not to spread the spores even more), you should bag them up very carefully and tightly, or burn them. Don't compost them, because you'll just be incubating the spores into your compost, which will cause further trouble. Good luck! We're in NJ and were nailed by the same rainy weather you probably had, so it's been quite the uphill battle for us too....See Moremulio
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