Mine don't seem to realize winter is here either this year. It has got to freezing a few times this year so I made something I call my "ghetto greenhouse". I got a 10'x14'x8' screen tent and secured the side poles with heavy steel posts and put stronger tie-downs on it. I put all the tropicals that are still in pots in there. It has two flap windows at the top that air can get through as well as the screen sides. It doesn't really keep it real warm but is excellent to keep the frost off the tops of the plants, perfect for areas like mine in zone 9. If it gets below say freezing I go out and add a layer of lightwieght flannel sheets over the tops of the plants in the 'screenhouse'. All the plants look really good and have continued to grow this winter.

Sylvia, I just ordered two Marcoun Apple trees, I'm not sure if they will fruit here in my zone but those apples are well worth a try. They said it will be 2 to 3 years before they will fruit. I searched everywhere for larger Marcoun Apple trees but these trees were the only ones I could find online. I might have to overwinter them in a refrigerated Plexiglas dome to set fruit. LOL I keep looking at my original northern apple trees I planted here a few years ago and they are staying dormant from all the cold this year. I removed the leaves on them last November's first frost so they would go dormant early. This spring I will hand pollinate the flowers as the bees here are very scarce. I also planted two crab apple trees which are very good apple pollinators. Lou

Keeping a tree very healthy can help reduce or slow the inevitable, but is not a cure. Yes, there are some very promising research studies going on in Florida that are working on both a cure and a containment option. Two studies showing extreme promise are the development of resistant trees using gene-spicing (splicing in a Spinach gene that will make the cultivar resistant). That is slow, tedious work, and considering the number of citrus cultivars, you can expect to see the focus to be on commercial cultivars first, and who knows if it will ever expand to the lesser known, "hobby" cultivars (Dr. Steven Mirkov at Texas A&M). The other very promising research study is using a drug given for Gout in humans. That actually seems to kill the bacteria, and so far, appears to be safe for the trees, as well as for humans consuming the fruit. More research is ongoing with this study. I have posted links to both of those studies in the past on our forum. And lastly, the newest research study that is also showing extreme promise (I think the one you're referring to) is Dr. Sankra's study (U. of S. Florida) with nontechnolgy and product he has termed, "Zincide": http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2015/04/22/citrus-greening-treatment_n_7103984.html This is as exciting to me as the gout medication, as it is something us hobbyists could use to treat our existing and precious (and some rare) citrus trees. Amazing stuff going on, with enough monies finally being tossed in the ring to come up with some honest to goodness treatments. The bottom line for those folks in FL - you're going to still need to treat your treat several times a year with systemic Imidacloprid to protect against the ACP until some of these ideas come to fruition for the public. I would contact your local ag agency and follow their recommendations if you want to keep growing citrus in Fl for now. Patty S.

Landmark- An electric heater might work fine, too. Just remember that most small electric heaters use about 1500 watts. Since the standard, home electrical circuit is 14 ga wire, with a 15 amp breaker, it can only handle about 1800 watts without tripping. That means you shouldn't be having anything much else on that particular circuit in order to insure you maintain power to the greenhouse heater. A compromise is to get a dual circuit heater, with switching that lets you use the low power circuit (750 watts), or both circuits (1500 watts total). You could use it on low and also have a heating mat (or two or three), and stay well below the wattage limit for the home wiring. Also, it's good to have an electric heater with a built-in thermostat. You can get a nice, oil-filled, dual circuit, radiant electric heater, with thermostat for about $50-$70: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TGDGLU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481050429&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=delonghi+heater&dpPl=1&dpID=41DId9GtDuL&ref=plSrch) Just remember that using heating mats with domes will be cheaper and more efficient for seedlings because you are only putting heat where you need it. Of course, when the seedling height exceeds the dome height (my high domes are 6" tall), you have to remove the domes, and deal with how warm or cold the air is at that time of year inside the greenhouse.