You could have more than one option in regard to "making the zerk accessible". Certainly, swapping an angled fitting for the straight fitting would "seem" to be the least difficult way to go, but even in that, there could be a problem!!! Lots of OEMs have begun using "threadless, press in" zerk fittings in recent years. This type of grease fitting is almost useless in any configuration other than "short & straight". Long or angle versions of these "press in" zerks are guaranteed to loosen and come out of their hole, either from vibration in use, or from pushing the grease gun onto them when you lube, or from the "back pressure" of the grease if the component "doesn't want" the grease. Look at the zerk. If it has a "hex nut" design (6 "wrench flats" for a wrench or socket") it is probably threaded (though I've seen some "press in" zerks that had "wrench flats" but no threads) and you can just substitute a 45 degree or 90 degree zerk for the straight one. If the zerk is simply "round" at the base, it is a "press in". A second option might be for you to remove the mounting bolts that secure the spindle assembly to the deck, and rotate the entire spindle assembly 90 degrees so that the OEM zerk is oriented for better access by your grease gun. That option will only work if the spindle casting has an "equally centered" mounting footprint. If it uses an "off center" mounting pattern, the spindle can only be mounted in a single orientation. Another option would be for you to install a "remote grease zerk" by threading an adapter fitting into the spindle and running a steel "grease line" to an accessible location. Use caution and care in implementing the remote grease line option as the fittings and steel lines (automotive brake pipes) must be compatible and seal tightly AND the steel lines must be routed out of reach of any belts or tensioner pulleys. The steel lines must also be fastened down or anchored securely against vibration or they will eventually break. Remote grease zerks are commonly used in lots of industrial applications where a plain zerk would be inaccessible, or where the machinery must be "greased while in use" (machinery that you wouldn't want to, or were unable to, shut down for routine greasing). Another option that might be available would be to "make an access hole" in the cover, aligning with the OEM grease zerk, to allow your grease gun tip to reach the zerk by going through the access hole. This option would depend on a few conditions being present. The shape and dimensions of the cover would have to be such that you could create the access hole in the cover using a hole saw, and that the distance from the hole to the zerk be only a few inches max (unless you fabricate an "extension tip" for your grease gun). Getting back to the possibility of "press in" zerks being used by the OEM. I have "replaced" press ins with threaded zerks.......but it required drilling the OEM hole larger to allow "threading" with a 1/8" NPT tap and using zerks with 1/8" NPT threads. Drilling and tapping into the body of a spindle (or other component) without dismantling the spindle presents some issues in itself (cuttings and shavings in the interior cavity). When I have no other choice but to "drill and tap" in these situations, I first try to pump the cavity as full as I can get it, with grease using an "adapted grease pipe" made from "nylon spaghetti tubing". The thin tubing connects to metal fittings which are then fitted with a zerk. The zerk connects to the grease gun and I then insert the end of the tubing deep into the cavity through the former OEM zerk hole. I pump the cavity full of grease until it is "oozing out of" the zerk hole. Then I withdraw the tubing. The cavity is now "packed full" of grease. The grease will serve as a "barrier" to keep cuttings from falling into the cavity. Using a "drill stop" on the correct size drill bit (you only want the drill bit to go about 1/2" deep, or just the thickness of the "wall" you are drilling into), drill the OEM hole to the new diameter. Next you will tap the hole using a 1/8" NPT tap. Tap only deep enough for the new zerk to thread into the hole. This might require you to tap a little, back out the tap, and "try" the zerk to see if it threads in. Once you get the new zerk to thread in, stop tapping. NPT threads are "tapered" and you don't want to tap the full extent of the tap into the hole or the fit of the zerk will be too loose. After you have tapped the hole to satisfaction, insert the spaghetti grease line into the cavity again (go as deep as you can) and pump a "significant quantity" of grease into the cavity. The grease being expelled from the zerk hole will carry all the cutting debris out through the zerk hole. At this time you can install your angled zerk or your remote zerk line (whichever you have chosen to do).

Do you have House wrens around, they can and will remove eggs and or hatchlings from Blues nest and throw them out. Since your adults are both feeding the babies I wouldn't worry about the females behaviour. She may just be watching out for the bird that took her other eggs. As far as the egg that is left, I wouldn't worry about it. It happens sometime and it won't cause any harm to leave it in there. Oh, do you have a sparrow spooker on the box to prevent HOSP from harming the babies or adults? Check out sialis.org for more info on them. Donna

Yes, bird feeders are a big attraction to bears and they will get more and more invasive. You essentially can feed the wildlife and have all the wildlife around or stop feeding them and get rid of them eventually. You cannot pick and choose which ones you want around unless you want to kill the bears. When the bears don't get enough food from your feeders they'll start tearing into other things and they'll get more and more bold. If you have garbage cans out, they'll be ripped open. Leave groceries in the car and it'll likely be opened. And if they're in a shed or garage, don't be surprised if eventually they try getting in there. Bears have also been known to become so desperate for food they actually go into houses and grocery stores. Once they have found a source of food and they'll keep coming back. Unless you want to kill the bear you need to dissuade it from coming around. As long as there's food, they'll keep coming back regularly. This has other impacts too. They probably aren't going to get the nutrition they need just from the bird food - it's not formulated for bears and they won't forage as much for natural foods. Worse yet it starts to essentially tame the bears and that's not good. The impact from that can be quite dangerous to people and animals, including their own cubs. We talked about this in the thread about the bear place taming bears so I won't duplicate it here. Suffice to say that it's cute to hand feed wild animals and put ribbons on them but that doesn't domesticate them like a dog or cat. As for woodpeckers, here they make perfectly round holes. I'd go with the wrap with plastic and see if that works. Could be a smell in it that is attracting them. Maybe try hanging some mothballs or wipe it with ammonia, vinegar or bleach. Not sure if that would help or not. Test it though for any affect to the container.

1) do something about the bugs that the woodpeckers are going after. They don't make holes for the sake of making holes, there are critters in there that look like breakfast to Mr. Woodpecker. They don't make a hole if they are just drumming to announce their presence. 2) On my barn, which has been infested with winter moths under the shingles, I discourage the woodpeckers by sliding a piece of aluminum between the shingles to cover the hole, tacking it in place with a small SS nail. Hit it with a dab of red paint and it is not very noticeable. Getting the building weather tight and re-painting seems to have made it less hospitable to the moths. In one area I discovered a serious carpenter ant farm thanks to the woodpecker's attention, so it's not all bad.