Raven, I have no experience with blueberries or low ph soil. My experience in the fertilizer business has been that dry sulfer is the cheapest. If I remember right dry sulfer comes in a 90% formulation. Ammonium sulfate adds some, but you would have to use a LOT of product compared to just using dry sulfer. You can not dissolve Dry sulfer into a slurry though I don't think. If you want to go liquid it comes that way, but it costs a lot more. Here are a couple links for you. http://www.algreatlakes.com/PDF/factsheets/ALGLFS28_Reducing_Soil_pH_Field_Crops.PDF http://www.tigersul.com/products/agriculture/bentonite-sulphur/tiger-90-cr-sulphur.html To truly amend an 1/2 acre of 6 ph down to 4.5 you would need 855 pounds of a 90% dry sulfer, with a cost of $300-400. It would take 5900 pounds of ammonium sulfate ($1200-2000) to do the same thing, and adding that much AMS would add a lot of nitrogen and Im not sure if you would need that or not. Around here you could find a dry fertilizer outfit to bring a spreader out if it was a big enough job. 1/2 acre not so much. But I bet it could be done as an experiment even with a yard spreader, or some kind of pull behind a 4-wheeler spreader. It would just take some math to make sure you got it spread right. It would need incorporated, either with rain or mechanically. If my calculations are right it would take 296 gallons of a 26% liquid sulfer product to amend 1/2 acre from 6 down to 4.5ph.

Thank you both for your replies. Attached a couple more pictures. The first picture was from June last year and the second picture is from today. Both are of the same location. During the summer I was watering every 3 days when temps were above 90, sometimes they reached 110. I spread Scott’s disease ex around October of last year thinking it was fungus but it did not seem to help and got worse slowly since. I’ve since installed a separate zone for just the kurapia and right now I’m watering once every 20 days for 25 min using above ground mp rotator sprinklers. I have clay soil and recently installed a soil moisture meter 15 inches below the surface which is hopefully deep enough but it was really hard to dig through the clay soil. Also I noticed most of the kurapia roots seemed to be near the surface, in the small section where I dug the dirt I didn’t notice roots at 15 inches deep. My plan is in early March, I will hire someone to aerate the soil, then I will add osmocote 15-9-12 slow release fertilizer at a rate of 1 lb per 150sqft. Then on top I will add worm castings at depth of 1/4 inch, then water really well. Let me know what you think of this plan and if you have any other advice. I’ve had kurapia for 3 years and it did not get this bad during previous winters. It looked great during the summer and I’m hoping it can look like that again. Just to add the temp has been mid 60s during the day and mid 40s at night and very sunny and almost 0 rain this winter. A few days reach 70 and sometimes the temp is high 50s.

I meant to share this earlier- it's just a super handy dandy thingy that I found at the Dollar Tree ( so it is now $1.25) I keep my charging cables in here and can always find them easily. I keep it in my purse on a daily basis and when we traveled it was just so handy. All patterns and a few different shapes. Mine is about 2 1/2 or 3 inches square. and open- (it also has a net pocket inside. Gotta love it.

Your are not missing anything. I think they look great in theory but not good in reality. I live in NC with lots of trees. There would be very few times we would be able to leave anything open around here. March through June we deal with nasty pollen. Then it gets hot and humid. Then add in all sorts of bugs and critters. My brother and his wife installed them in their home in Reno NV. They don't have the bugs like we have here but since it is so dry they get lots of dust inside the house leaving them open. Almost forgot. September through December we get stink bugs and Asian lady beetles. I’d have a house full of those digusting insects.