Cucumber beetles and squash bugs are two of the worst pests in any garden. As a certified organic grower, the strongest "control" in our arsenal is 1% Rotenone--which will kill most anything except adult squash bugs and cucumber beetles (and ants--I've actually had ants live in 1% Rotenone powder). The best method of control of any pest is a "trap" crop. Sometimes you have to forfeit growing most cucurbits for a season if you're so infected with cucumber beetles or squash bugs that you simply can't continue. Of course a trap crop is a small crop of the type preferred by the insect you're trying to eradicate. Anney mentioned the squash that cuke beetles seem to be most attractive in her area, so she should use that. Do a small planting to attract the beetles to that area--it need only be 4 feet by 4 feet, or 10 feet by 10 feet, whatever suits you. When all the cuke beetles in the world are feeding on the trap crop, do them in with whatever suits you and you feel won't destroy the universe. I use pure ethanol. Do a succession of these small trap crop plantings, and at the end of the season, you'l have made a horrific dent in their population. (Unless your next door neighbor is working against you with his crop of cuke beetles allowed to run amuck.) It hurts to have to sacrifice crops you love to eat while your eradication process is ongoing--but it's sometimes necessary, and I've had to do it in the past. If you research both insects I mentioned, you'll find they overwinter in trash and debris and litter--and of course in all this stuff which is in the woods nearby, which makes it difficult--but garden cleanly and don't have junk lying around to give them instant access--leaves, old bales of hay and straw, old mulch, etc., all the things they love to hide in over winter. Good work Anney, and others, who are trying to solve the problem. I'm an organic market grower, and some years I have to leave a 10' by 10' growth of cantaloupes or watermelons to herd up all the squash bugs and cucumber beetles that were on 5 acres of cataloupes and/or watermelons, then kill the thousands of those insects that congregate on the small planting. That's the beauty of a "trap" crop. I can either spray 5 acres--or I can wait until the planting is over and leave a small trap planting where I can kill them all as they flock to it. It makes a big difference in time, energy, and money spent.

Great to know it's not so prone to black spot..thanks so much for the responses!! I haven't seen any yet. I do not know much about canker so I will have to educate myself and watch carefully. I will wait and see about the canes breaking off....I will try to post a picture of the larger bush as it's really full of blooms right now and so far nothing seems to be eating it. It IS an octopus like someone said though....I could use advice on how to train it to the arbor however. Should I start now tying the canes to the right where the arbor is? Seems my Scent From Above since I tied the laterals horizontally hasn't had any blooms on those yet..the main cane is blooming well though. Keep thinking I've done something wrong! The pics are lovely and my roses aren't quite that yellow tint yet but there does seem to be some. In a way I think I will love this rose...yellow seems to be attracting the beetles. So far I've only seen a beetle on the Scent F A and I watch daily. Course they are on the Wisteria....that stuff is a feast to them so I'm thankful for it. It's almost impossible to kill!!! Anyway...thanks so much for your pics...it's so good to know yours are large and thriving and gives me hope!! I also need to know exactly what a "first flush" is. If you have only one bud that opens and there are no others is that considered a first flush? Should you then fertilize that bush after cutting the bud off? Also..if there are many buds I take it you wait until those open before fertilizing? Some have many and others of course don't. I should have fertilized my miniatures last week but I waited as the heat was sooo intense. I cut a few blooms off them that were spent and one off my Iceburg but haven't fertilized as was waiting for this break in the weather. I didn't want to burn anything. Best to fertilize late in the afternoon I take it? After I fertilize...when should I then use epsom salts, fish emulsion, and bone meal along the way? I have to write down these schedules per bush as I have 14!!! Wow...I may have bitten off more than I can chew!! THANKS in advance....everyone here has "saved the day" for me!!! :))))

Tom Cox's statement is ambiguous, I think he means "in Georgia below 1500 ft.". Because surely Taxus baccata would do well there at elevation, as they grow very well at sea level at least as far south as Maryland. Come to think of it there are also a couple big ones in "Colonial Williamsburg". The picture of a mature Larch in the Dendropress book is stunning. I hope that it will get published soon...the delay seems like a couple years now?

I am not organic so I don't have those limitations. I will use pesticides usually Carbaryl , Malathion, or Bt. I rarely use use carbaryl or malathion because beetles are relatively rare here. I only have to fight an occasional invasion if I am careful with planting windows. Cucumbers I have to plant early and complete harvest by July 4 th When the pickle worms arrive. Once they arrive, few insecticides are effective, Don't often get cuke beetles in that window either, but Carbaryl ( SEVIN) is effective when they do. Note that I do monitor closely and only attack the beetles when they are in place. I do use a copper based fungicide on them as mildews (PM & DM) are frequent problems