I've noticed with mine that on some baby off shoots it will produce a long shoot with a baby on the end, then another long shoot with another baby and so on. It has a neat cascading effect. Most of these babies have their own roots and I've thought about separating and planting them on their own but the effect is really cool. On the same plant there's also 2 flower spikes. Maybe this one will turn into a flower spike?

Wow! That's a lot of work. It does look normal for bermuda sod this time of year in the DFW area. That's about the end of the good news. I wish you had asked a LOT more questions before you went to all this trouble. For example the chances that you have any clay in your soil are almost nil, and that impacted a lot of what you did. You might have hard soil, but not because there's clay in it. An imbalance of salts in the soil act just like clay. In either case, though, it can be fixed so you can enjoy digging in it. The hard soil can be corrected by spraying it with shampoo at a rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. What you have done with the rototilling will do nothing to fix the hard soil. Once the soil settles (in 3 years), it will be hard soil again unless you restore the soil biology. Shampoo helps with that. Rototilling was a mistake. As the tilled soil settles it will become bumpier and bumpier. It can take 3 years for the settling to stop. Since bermuda is mowed at a very low mower setting, you're going to see scalping marks as you bounce your way through mowing it. What I would have suggested would have been to spray out the existing grass/weeds with RoundUp (during the growing season, not the dormancy season), chopping the dead stuff out with a verticutter/powerrake, or similar tool. Both of these steps are easy, quick and don't affect your soil structure. That would have left your soil ready for sod without the ramifications of a full rototill job. Keep doing what you're doing. You do NOT need to saturate the soil. All you need to do is moisten the underlying soil so the roots will knit into it. Every weekend try lifting a corner of a piece of sod to see if the roots are connecting. Once you're happy that they are you can back way off on the watering. Bermuda is VERY forgiving with this transition step. Set out some cat food or tuna cans and time how long it takes your sprinklers to fill the cans. That will be your watering time from now on. My sprinkler takes 8 hours but some take only 20 minutes. You need to do this test for your system. What you will have done for this test is to apply 1 inch of water all at one time. Then, since this is bermuda, let it sit for a week and evaluate it. The roots will continue to grow in because the soil is moist several inches deep. Check the soil after a week. If it is still moist on top, let it go another week. If the surface is not moist, then water it another full inch. In either case, the next time you water try letting it go dry for 2 more weeks. Again, this is bermuda. Once the roots are in the ground, you're going to have bermuda come hell or high water. Letting it dry out is beneficial for several reasons, so get the grass trained. You do not need to fertilize a new bermuda lawn until you have mowed new grass for the second time. Fertilizing before that is a waste of time and money. The grass needs to have working roots or the fertilizer doesn't do anything. Bermuda loves a monthly dose of high N (low to zero P and K) fertilizer. Along with frequent chemical fertilizer apps, at least once a year I would suggest using an organic fertilizer like corn meal, alfalfa pellets, or Milorganite. The application rate is 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet. This will ensure your soil biology does not get depleted. You'll use less chemicals with the occasional dose of organics. Hope this helps. Sorry I don't have better news about the rototilling. If you want to get a soil test, please resist the urge to get one at TAMU. The best soil test facility in the US is at Logan Labs in Ohio. Their basic $25 test would cost you upwards of $65 at TAMU for the same battery of tests.

They both look great with the exception of the couple of brown leaves.The repotting is a possible reason or perhaps those leaves get a spot of sun that’s too intense? I cheat and usually cut those few leaves off. :-)

what mike said ... just understand.. a light bulb is not the sun ... few million degrees of intensity different.... so you have to harden things off .. as noted above .... where are you???? ..... it should go outside.. in full bright shade ... and then planted in mother earth in the fall ... and winter over outdoors ... if its not zone appropriate for your location .... well.. we'll deal with that when you tell us that ... on some level.. you are loving it to death .. lets free it.. to be the tree it is ... its going to be very hard to grow it as a houseplant.. in the long run .... ken