It seems that you already have a first guess as a Kadota. If else fails, next summer, post some pictures of your ripen fig fruit, showing the skin & pulp colors, and leaf shape. Some fig expert will have some good say on its id. Here is a link that might be useful: Kadota

I've tried all those flashy things, and although they work for the first few days, the birds quickly become used to it. Food is a strong encouragement to ignore their fear. How are you using the wire mesh? If it's put right on the ground, then the birds can get right through and the plants can get stunted. But if it is elevated a bit, with say, wood planks, the birds won't get through and the plants will be free to grow. Once the plants fill in enough, the mesh can be removed and the plants are too big to be damaged much. I planted millet sprays from the petstore one year to see if I could grow the food for our parakeets. The birds would eat all the seeds within a day of planting them. I tried putting mesh down, but it didn't do a thing. I was young and could not convince my parents to buy more materials, so I took some scraps of wood, stones, etc and elevated the mesh several inches off the ground. The birds couldn't reach the seeds, they sprouted thickly, and when they started coming through the mesh, I removed it. The plants by that time were too big for the birds and when they made seed heads I covered them with paper bags. I got a nice little harvest! The feral cats around my current house LOVE to dig in my soil. They kept digging up a small shrub I planted from the nursery. I finally got them to stop digging when I put rocks around the trunk. Rocks also protected my basil transplants from getting dug up. Plus, rocks are nice to look at. I have lots of rocks in my soil because of the glaciers of the past.

Image by: Cecilia "While we always look with pleasure at the petals of a rose, frequently they are of the least importance in deciding where we are to classify our plant." -- Mrs. Frederick L. Keays, from the 1938 American Rose Society Annual Identifying roses isn't always easy. Some are very distinctive and a photo of the bloom alone will do. Others require more information, and some may never be reunited with their original names. It is helpful in such cases to assign a study name to your rose. The list below suggests some of the information that might be helpful with the identification. In describing your rose, please include as much detail as possible and do include any distinctive characteristics the rose may have that aren't covered here. Do what you can with the photo suggestions that appear directly beneath the respective plant parts, given your photographic resources and access. Combine elements where convenient, and include a recognizable object for scale - a coin, ruler, etc. STUDY NAME: These are always placed in double quotes, i.e. "Grandma's Pink Rose."BUDS: shape (round, elongated), texture (smooth, mossy. If mossy, how fragrant is the moss?), shape of sepals (pointed, leaf-like) *Photo: Side view, mature enough to show some color. BLOOM: color (incl. reverse of petal), size, shape, petal count, petal shape, stamen and pistil color, fading or darkening of aging bloom *Photo: Top view, side view, cluster view (if applicable) FRAGRANCE: none, slight, medium, moderately strong, strong; describe the fragrance BLOOM DISTRIBUTION: are blooms single or clustered REPEAT BLOOM: none, one, a few, frequent HIPS: shape, color, diameter, quantity *Photo: Side view, ripe or unripe as the season permits LEAVES: color (light, dark, med, matte or glossy), size, texture (smooth, leathery, rough, fuzzy). How many leaflets, any fragrance, any needle-like spines underneath, well or sparsely foliated? *Photo: 2 leaves carefully pulled from stem with stipule intact, one face up, the other face down. LEAFLETS: Shape, size. Are they fairly uniform in size? If not, describe how they vary. Are they closely or widely spaced along the midrib? STIPULE: please describe using as much detail as possible - shape, size, color, any red striping, describe edges (plain, toothed, ragged, fringed, feathery) THORNS: shape, size, color, many/few, straight/hooked, bristles, all the same or different sizes on the same cane, do they break off easily or are they strong? CANES: color, slender and pliable, arching, stout and upright *Photo: include a few thorns GROWTH HABIT & FORM: height of plant, bush, shrub, climber, ground cover *Photo: entire plant VIGOR & HEALTH: slow or fast grower, any diseases? HISTORY: Approximate age of plant - try to date the rose based on the age of objects in the surrounding environment, i.e., a cemetery headstone date, approximate age of any structure or development near which it was found, or developmental level of roadside (country backroad, freeway bypass, etc.) by which it was found. What is known about the history othis rose? A lot of these old roses have stories behind them - ask around! CONDITION OF PLANT: Has the rose been well-cared-for, neglected, or abused? What type of soil was it growing in, was it in full sun, part (or full) shade? USDA zoneFAQ compiled by AndreaRose, Cecilia_MD7a, Wendy_in_SD, Sylvia, and Mosaic.

Looks like a native species, Clematis virginiana. In addition to the particular leaf shape confirming ID, this is the only clematis species I am aware of that spreads by suckering as well as seeding. It blooms in late summer and early fall. If digging it out (and you need to get ALL the roots) didn't work, then maybe it's time to head for the herbicide. Don't spray. Cut back the vines to just a couple of inches above ground and either paint the cut stems or spritz with a squirt bottle. Use glyphosate (RoundUp) full strength. If this technique can work on Himalayan blackberries and English ivy, it should certainly work on a clematis.