To all you 30" DCS owners, can you please help me determine the interior oven dimensions of this range??? I can't find the specs anywhere online and am totally stressed tonight about finalizing my range choice!! Today, I received the news from my local appliance store that they are having a special 2-day offer for the 30" all gas, sealed burner Viking...$2999.00!!!!! With my VERY tight budget constraints, this seems like an impossible one to pass up. However, the last thing I want to do is make a mistake and decision I'll later regret. I truly don't know what I should do! The Viking has 4 15,000 BTU burners - is this enough power for most anything I'll want to do??? I'm also scared off my so many unfavorable reviews. Are there any happy Viking owners out there? Here is a link that might be useful: viking range with special promo

kharamarie - Your kitchen choices so far sound beautiful. I have been quite enamored with gray these days. I am curious, do you like more of a single tone from counter to cabinet (say white cabinet and danby marble counter) or a little contrast (say gray cabinet with the danby marble counter?) But don't think I am lobbying for marble, you can get the same looks with the quartzite and swapping the counters. Personally, I appreciate both but lean toward contrast - where are you? Full disclosure, I have a white quartzite island but LOVE marble (didn't think it was a good fit for our family) so I guess I am not really biased. You are choosing between two lovely stones. The surprising part of the quartzite is it isn't as 'loud' once on your counter horizontal and it looks amazing with soft white cabinets (my island is BM Dove Wing which is white with a slight gray/almost green to it.) It provides a some contrast to the white without being as dark as a soapstone (which I also love with white.) I did hone mine, which was a fantastic surprise (soft with small areas of quartz that shine slightly in certain angles.) Here are a couple of photos to get the big picture and see if it is the look you are going for (we have gray pietra del cardosa counters in the perimeter.) One of the first things that everyone comments on about the kitchen is the island - everyone (non-GW :) thinks it is marble. Shot of kitchen with super white quartzite A higher angle, just of the counter Another thing to consider for counters are your "views." My perimeter counters are viewed from a distance, it is a more softer subtle look - like a gray soapstone - with tone on tone lines, some white and black veining - I call it calm and relaxing. It is a great 'backdrop' for the kitchen but when you are working on it or looking up close (which most people don't) is has a lot of interesting detail. I view my super white at both a distance and up close when you are sitting at it. You see the 'whole enchilada' were the perimeter is more bits and pieces and on an angle because you never sit at it. If you were to use superwhite on a perimeter you would even soften it more because it was viewed at a distance and in bits and pieces. So the three questions I see are: (1) Do you prefer more single tone to contrast(this hinges on your cabinet color) (2) do you prefer white with gray (marble) or gray with white (SW) and (2) do you prefer the clunking of SW (my husband said it reminded him seeing glaciers from an airplane) or the linear look of the marble. Last question - is there an island in the kitchen? Would you consider quartzite on the island and the marble on the perimeter (or vice versa?) Not sure if that would be too busy for you. It is another play on the traditional soapstone/marble kitchen. I love soapstone and understand there are different varities that have different colors (gray, black, greenish) as well as durability (my friend has soapstone and I love it but there tons of chips in the sink which would bother me, must have been a softer one.) I think you can't loose here - just what speaks to you. I have included a link to my nearly finished kitchen album. I could not get enough of photos of counter and cabinet combos when I was in the process. I would also recommend searching google images for "marble island" "gray cabinets." You may find some real inspiration. Good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: My kitchen with Superwhite island

New Heat Pump System Here is my general min spec sheet for new system. both outside and inside units should be replaced to have a properly matched system. 15 SEER, 12.5+ EER, 9 HSPF best matching VS air handler full BTUs in both cooling and heating for your rated size R-410a refrigerant(same as Puron) scroll compressor preferred electronic demand defrost preferred thermostat with "dehumidify on demand" feature staged backup heat strips new and correctly sized refrigerant lineset 10 yr warranty on parts and compressor you want a thorough inspection of your ductwork system. size, overall condition, supply and return lines, insulation qualities, leak test, etc. any hot/cold spot issues in your home should be addressed. My personal recommendation is Trane/AmStd and Carrier/Bryant. Depending on your location, I would not purchase a new system that did not have electronic demand defrost. Your complaint about cold downstairs and hot upstairs is very typical about trilevels and usually is indication of poor ductwork sizing/design. Do you have returns in each level? If not, that would be my starting point along with correct sizing. You need a minimum of 1200-1300 CFMs of return.strategically located. One return is not adequate for good airflow. for your location/climate and a 2-3 ton sized system, I would think no more than 7-10 KW of backup heat strip would be fine. What size do you have now? 10 KW yields about 35 KBTUs. i prefer Trane/AmStd HPs over Carrier. Don't know about your budget. 2 stage condensers are nice but come with a price. Correct sizing of condenser is most important. As far as var speed air handlers, they are not necessary if summertime humidity is not a concern. But you do want a high eff model like the GAM5 that will get your higher efficiencies. have a load calculation performed in writing for correct sizing and a thorough look at your ductwork system particularly the returns. IMO

The assessment of trades above by @User is correct. You’ll need a HVAC person, an electrician, and someone to do drywall. You’ll also need a new dedicated electrical outlet for where you moved your MW. I’m not sure why there isn’t an outlet above the range, where you moved it from, but it wouldn’t be in the right place for a chimney hood if it were. That’s why you have to decide on the hood, and design everything around the exact hood’s specs. The location and shape of the duct and the electrical location is NOT universal. It’s normal to have to move or adjust everything, or do new. You need the specs and the hood on hand when talking to contractors. Don’t forget an exterior damper to keep cold air from infiltrating your home! You will get a better job, done faster, if you hire a General Contractor, rather than trying to hire the trades individually. They have their subs that they give lots of work to, and who will return phone calls and show up. And pull the permits that this will require. A homeowner doesn’t get the same price or response from the trades, and it takes weeks longer. I’d suggest posting on your local NextDoor or Facebook neighborhood or city group to look for a licensed and insured (check this!) contractor who can do a small job. But, it isn’t as small as you think!