as close as possible to that same meaty flavor, but with increased tolerance to heat, disease and better production. Exactly what Brandy Boy was bred for. However, don't disregard any variety based on one poor season. High heat and high humidity is something many of us have to deal with every year. Most any variety will still do well with those conditions IF it is planted out early enough. That often means much earlier than you may think. Use a fungicide to prevent disease and then baby it through the worst of the 100 degree/90% humidity days until it can kick back into production when the weather breaks. So who has grown Better Boy? Search it by name here for many comments on it. Personally I find it to be just an average hybrid when it comes to flavor, especially when compared to so many others. Beefmaster is much better and Brandy Boy is much better than either. Dave

You said: "I moisten the soil daily" But you also said that the tomatoes are in self-watering containers. Self-watering containers water themselves if the reservoir is filled according to manufacturer's directions. So, why do you water daily? And what did you fill the pot with? Ground soil? Potting soil? A special recipe of your own? Or ...? Then, too, do you check the moisture content of the growing medium? Some potting ixes don't wick up water bery well.

When you delay going to the doctor (to find out if that pain in your right side is really your appendix) two hours while you water the baby (mostly tomato) seedlings, move them to the basement, and set up the timer and the last shoplights so they'll stay alive in your (possibly extended) absence. When you spend hours of your recovery time writing and printing labels with not only the variety names, but detailed descriptions for the several dozen extra seedlings you're giving to the scholarship plant sale. [It wasn't ever very painful, but the CT-scan impressed the radiologist, the appendix impressed the surgeon, and I didn't get home for 3 1/2 days, which is ... not normal. (I'm convinced it would have been a day or two less if only they'd ever let me sleep.) The seedlings did quite well in my absence.]

The two major fungal foliage pathogens are Early Blight ( A. solani) and Septoria Leaf Spot, and it looks like the latter to me. For sure it isn't A. solani and it isn't either Bacterial Speck or Spot. Please go to Google, select images, enter Septoria Leaf Spot and see if it resembles what you have. You can also go to the Tomato Pest and Disease Forum, link at the top of thios page, look for the thread titled Problem Solver #2 and in the following posts find the link to TAMU for pictures and other links and resources. My suggestion is to ASAP get Ortho Disease Control and spray with that. It's Daconil which is very effective against tomato fungal foliage pathogens. But it's best used as a preventative, not a cure, but at least you can protect the new foliage. Carolyn