love pulmonarias and sea holly,have agaves,century plants,cannas with spikey red bloom,some other tropicals for inside. Thanks

Factors like how well your soil drains and what the potential for further settlement is, probably need to be factored into your decision, but, without further info that you have provided so far, my gut feeling is to leave them. An inch isn't all that much with reasonable well draining soil. And, moving them now means significant root loss and set-back for your hollies. If they've started adapting well to their conditions and you don't see further sinkage as likely, just leave them alone.

I can't answer all the questions about the holly, but I'd be really cautious about pulling any rootballs out with a vehicle. If the chain slips or breaks the results can be catastrophic to the vehicle and more importantly to any humans, pets, etc in the area. How large and difficult the removal will be depends on the size and age of the holly as well as what your soil is like. You haven't given us a lot of info about the why of this project. Before removing the holly, be aware that they won't be replaced quickly (to my mind established plants have value even if they wouldn't have been one's original choice, often because they work well to block unsightly views.) You may also want to think about your choice of replacement. Are there deer in your area? If so, Thuja occidentalis is deer candy. I don't have deer bothering plants at my house, but my neighbor's row of 3 year old T. occidentalis is bare branches as high as the deer can reach with just a tuft of greenery at the top. Quite unattractive, but IME what they look like when planted en mass in most places I've been that have appreciable deer populations.

I may be repeating myself, but keep in mind that we're not working with an ideal situation. The windows are too close together to squeeze a tree in front of and between them without it seeming as if it was a wedge pounded into a crack. Nevertheless, the scene can be improved by improving the maintenance (trimming.) I would definitely remove the end shrubs. Having them exceed the wall length looks like someone didn't "cut the trim the right length." It is as if a baseboard were longer than the wall it was attached to. You don't need to cut the hollies lower so long as you have them a little lower than the finished product, and it looks like they are. Keep in mind, since they are a plant that will grow substantially larger than the space allotted for them (the space below the windows), the only practical way to finish them is with continued shearing. Basically, you will be sculpting a hedge with hedge-trimmers and then sculpting it again every time it puts out a few inches of new growth. There are too many conditions working against you to maintain it as a natural finish hedge with a looser look. You have the option to cut the shoulders of the hedge crispy "square" or rounded. Either way looks good though each creates its distinct flavor. You'd want to coordinate this flavor throughout the foundation planting and not mix it up. Another feature of properly trimmed shrubs/hedges is that their side will slope outward so that they are widest at the bottom. They can be straight, but this neither looks as good or lets the bottom of them receive as much light. They can never be trimmed so that the bottom is narrower than the top (which is how almost everyone does it!!!) because they will lose their bottom foliage, due to it being shaded, and become bare at the bottom, as if a hedge or shrub on stilts, which is very ugly. Without question, you must clean up the canopy of the crape myrtle by cutting off all branches and foliage which hang down below a certain line. Usually, this would be over one's head. If the foliage is hanging down below the windows (including a few inches of clearance) then the arbitrary line at which it was cut is too low. I'm not talking about cutting the crape at the top, but removing what hangs down below the red dashed line. It would look a bunch tidier and more organized to clean this up. If you are pollarding the crapes every year, a good height above grade at which to cut their tops prior to early spring, is 9'. A given situation might call for a different measurement, but 9' is a good average. After the new top grows it will hang down a little below this, leaving and 8' ceiling, which will work for most situations. If you want to add more interest with a flowering or colored foliage perennial that is lower than the hedge, place it at the ends of the hedges/shrubs, not in front of them. Let it protrude forward of the hedges. Then fill in the foreground solid with a lower groundcover. You already have the Liriope. I'd just split that up and redistribute it over the whole area ... solid, not as a cute edging.