Thanks! I got Annies Salsa done. And its are so pretty in the jars! I made some 1/2 pints for gifts. I wish I had more tomatoes ready. BWB 25 minutes. So the first batch I got 6 1/2 pints and the 2nd batch I got 7 pints. The 2nd batch had 1 oz. more tomato sauce. Is that normal? Is it safe? Thanks for your help! Annie your the best!!!! Thanks for your recipe! Its my favorite salsa. I grew all the veggies for it. Dave, you are right, it tastes good out of the pot and I made it following the recipe as written, using 1/2 ACV and 1/2 lemon juice. I wouldn't change a thing, no need to. Sherri

There is a fairly easy way round all of these problems,even if you discover you have used the wrong mix already , I have done it myself this year too and used a MG potting mix with a wetting agent in it, same results as you ??, however this can be cured and perhaps save any remaining plants that have not shown any signs of the disease as yet -if it is not too late already. All you have to do ia obtian a block of Coir fibre, or even loose finely ground Coir fibre and sprinkle it on the existing suraface of the container the young plants are in, to about a depth of half an inch, this then wicks away any surplus moisture and prevents any form of damping off disease, naturally it is of course always best to buy compost with the coir fibre already incorperated in the mix all the way through-you get no problems with damping off after that, Coir fibre is ground up Coconut fibre that surrounds the nut, the best source of coir fibre bricks or blocks is a company called (Fertile Fibre)-it's on the internet. After treatment you just water the trays as normal, as the coir fibre will take care of the rest.you may notice one or two little plants still keel over with it later on-these are the plants that were already just infected with the disease before you treated them,but not yet showing.

I don't think it's necessary to buy the source book at first. With over 3,000 varieties listed in the Yearbook, which comes out not always in Feb, although that's a target date, there's plenty to chose from. And as a long time Life member of SSE I don't think SSE membership is for everyone. Don't get me wrong here, being a member helps very much to further the goal of SSE which is preservation of OP varieties . But I'd prefer to see folks join who have had some experience in growing tomatoes and that's b'c a certain percentage of seeds you request may not be pure and you need to know how to rogue out plants and you also need to know how to save seeds in terms of reoffering varieties that you might request. And while reoffering is desired, not everyone does it, unfortunately. And I agree with what jackbenny said above, in that the Yearbook should never be seen as a seed catalog. After a person has grown lots of the more common varieties offered commercially, then I think it's fine to go searching for the more rare varieties that are offered there. The other fact to note is that there are listed SSE members and non listed members and as mentioned above, listed members list their varieties in the Yearbook and those seeds are available to both listed and unlisted members but the cost/pack is higher for unlisted members. Currently, for US members the cost of a pack of tomato seeds is $2 for listed members and $3 for unlisted members. A few folks like myself ask the same price for both listed and unlisted members. So by all means if a person is interested in preserving genetic diversity I would urge anyone to join SSE if not for obtaining seed, then just for helping SSE with your membership monies. SSE has been an important part of my tomato life, as it were, LOL, and I've made many good friends through the years. I joined I think in 1989, and it's been a great experience for me. There's also a PUBLIC catalog with about 40 or so varieties that anyone can order from and the online version can be found at seedsavers.org Carolyn

For tomato varieties, try Tiny Tim and Bitonto. They are very small. It's hard to produce much fruit with flourescents. A small hps light would work better, but they make more heat, and you have to ventilate more. Tomatoes are day-length neutral, so I don't think it matters much how long you make your days. You could turn the lights off for a few hours in the hot part of the day if you have heat problems.