What do you mean by you planted some? Did you have plants in bloom, bulbs, or seeds? The seeds need oak leaf mold to germinate. I am zone 3/4 and have no trouble, they proliferate for me.

I have grown them from seed in a soiless mixture, so they don't seem to need oak leaves. You are supposed to clean the seeds, but I usually don't, and they germinate anyway. However, they can take two years that way. And, they often just send up one leaf the first time. Look for that one leaf.

I'm in Zone 7, and mine always appear later than I expect. They're not there one day, then suddenly, there they are. You're a couple of zones cooler, so maybe they just need a little more time ... hopefully?

I'm in zone 7 too, and that's what I was thinking- just wait. Mine are 'blooming' now. But just emerged what seemed like a few days ago. I started mine originally from seed (also in a soilless potting mix), but the ones I started last year haven't germinated yet. I will keep them in their pots outside all summer, and hopefully will see signs of life next spring (if not before).

Can anyone tell me what JITP looks like when it first comes up? I took a pic of the red berries last fall and then found out what it was. I am just learning our native flowers and can't remember the exact spot I saw the berries.

Never mind. I just found three plants today growing on my path through the woods. I think they are suffering because of the drought. I couldn't find any others anywhere.

Has anyone had a rust on their jacks called uromyces ari-tryphylli? I have native jacks and green dragons interspersed throughout my garden and many have this. I have heard that if you cut the leaves off you can get rid of it. Tony Avent says the entire bulb must be removed and thrown away. I plan to start doing that this year, but am wondering if that will keep it from spreading or if it is a battle that will continue. I have sooo many.
Kay

I have only seen this a few times in wild populations. There are two types of infection that can occur, foliar and systemic. Spores overwinter on the foliage, so removing the leaves should help prevent foliar infection the following year. Foliar infections show up on the leaves during the summer. The only way to eliminate the disease in systemically infected plants is to destroy the entire plant including the corm.

Systemically infected plants will have deformed leaves when they emerge in the spring. In these plants the fungal mycelia get into the tissues and infect the corm, allow the fungus to overwinter on the plant. In wild populations the rate of systemic infection can be about 25%. The remainder seem to have some resistance to the disease. The disease does not infect the seeds.

Thanks for the info.
I think I'm going to have to dig the infected ones and get rid of them. I haven't had much luck just cutting back, although it's hard to get every one, they are kind of invasive in my garden.
Kay

kay: I am on the new side of all these forums and trading and hope you still read them. Do you have any jacks to traded, what are thre green ones? I will try to find an email for you. thank you.

what does this rust look like, I just planted my corms last fall and they are coming up for the first time this year, the first one up has orangish dots on the leaves and on the hood of the flower is this what it looks like? if so I need to dig up this corm I don't want it to infect the other ones. Thanks

I had rust on some of my non-natives. I just cut them off, clean knife with each cut, and they are back this year with no rust. We disposed of the infected material, of course, in the trash.

I am not sure if you need to dig it up and dispose of it. I think I would give it another year, as I did.