As a general rule Nitrogen rich fertilizers are good for leaf and stem growth. For fruit growth, use a low nitrogen fertilizer that has a good phosphorus content. This is a general statement though and some plants might prefer slightly different mixes. My tomatoes have always done well with high phosphorus fertilizers in the fruit stage.

Phosphorus (the second number in the N-P-K ratio) encourages flowering, and therefore fruiting. Once a tomato plant starts flowering, it needs a higher ratio of potassium (the third number in the N-P-K ratio). (Good organic sources of potassium are granite dust and wood ash.)

Two fertilizers specially formulated for tomatoes are Miracle Grow for Tomatoes (18-18-21) and Tomato Tone (4-7-10), a granular fertilizer that is worked into the soil. Tomato Tone is organic and contains calcium, magnesium, sulfur and trace nutrients.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kinds of tomato fertilizer: what nutrients tomatoes need

MG is NOT formulated for tomatoes, regardless of the marketing hype. I have yet to see any Calcium as one of the ingredients.

Mike

Tomatoes Alive! (sold by Gardens Alive) is another really good one. I've had great results with it this year.

Mike
Just because it doesn't have calcium on the list doesn't mean it's not good for tomatoes. If growing tomatoes in the ground there's probably enough calcium already there. Container plants are a different story.

Taz,

True! But because I write a bunch about gardening, lots of people ask questions. One of the most common ones (this is a very urban area and a majority of people grow in containers) is what is causing black spots on the bottom of my tomatoes. I'm guessing about 95 percent, when asked, say they use MG. So I'm on Crusade.

Besides, I have a (never mind) for the company. Was in a pinch one day this winter, needed some potting mix and found some MG. Bought the small bag, found a 3.2 ounce rock in it. Contacted Scott's (not far away - Marysville, OH), sent them the picture and they said they would refund my money. Never did!

IM(not so)HO, Scott's/Miracle Grow and Reimers are two peas in a pod - advertise a bunch, let your name help you attract customers and don't really care if you lose a few thousand each year. There will be more than enough to replace them the following season!

Mike

This reminds me of an age old discussion. "Which oil to put in yer Harley" lol. Ask 7 different people you will get 7 different answers. My two cents on this...... start off with an organically rich soil, maters love the peat moss and sphagnum moss mixed in if ya dont got yer own compost brewin. If ya want the plant to have a growth spurt go ahead and use that MG. after ya got that plant where ya want it as far as size and foliage and such stop ferting it. After a week or two and ya dont see any progress kick in some low nitrogen ratio stuff.

I buy crushed oyster shells from our local feed store for
calcium. I add it to my planting medium and am assuming that
it is good for the entire growing season, but don't know that
as a fact. I also have used crushed egg shells, bu the
oyster is easier. LOL

If you live in an area with hard water coming out of the tap and use that to water your garden then it is already getting more than enough calcium.

Last year I used Tomato tone with very good results. In the past I have used 12-24-12 at flowering time. It works quite well also, but TT is organic.
JMO,
Tom

I use Gardener's Supply tomato food. It's a 5-6-5 and I use it when I first plant the tomatoes and in mid-season.

When they are just seedlings, I use PHC Seedling Care and the babies are happy little campers.

I am composting this year for the first time. Does anyone know the best way of checking the NPK ratio of compost? Any soil test recommendations? Obviously, everyone's compost will be different as everyone has slightly different ingredients. Also, do compost teas have the same ratio as the compost they are made from or are they more/less concentrated?
Don

To test soil or compost: Get a little home soil-test packet. Test it yourself. The truth is it is cheapest to add the component individually. It is not true that well-cultivated soil needs fertilizer every season. And it's not true that soils all need the same nutriments. And it's not true that all plants want the same nutriments. Go to any gardening website or book, especially look at organic gardening. And avoid the expense of prepackaged one-size-fits-all additives to your soil.

Another vintage thread with always burning question.

Tomato plants need all major elements (N, P, K) and Ca, Mg, ...etc. all the time.

In early growth stage higher percentage of N can be more beneficial. In later stages ( flowering, setting fruits ..) P an K might be more useful.

Keep in mind that in a good established garden there should be plenty of nutrients, especially if the soil has a lot of organic matter. So then it is not just what you add as fertilizer during the season.

Right now (flowering and fruiting stage) I am using something with 3 - 3.5 - 4.5 ratio.

MG blue water soluble has 3-1-2 ratio , perhaps too high on N and too low on P and K for tomatoes.

Sey

The unsolved mystery of N...P...K

Sey

Winter Reading :

I don't like reading books anymore. Nowadays I read internet. hehe

So lets explore the subject :

Question: Best Fertilizer For Tomatoes?

For years I have used all purpose granular like 10-10-10,, 12-12-12, 16-16-6 and also MG blue water soluble 24-8 -16 (3-1-2). We are now told that 3-1-2 ratio is actually a better "All-Purpose" fertilizer than 1-1-1 ratio. The logic behind it is that N is used more plus being readily water soluble it will leach out and down, away from the reach of most garden veggies . P sticks around linger by attaching to the soil and plus plants don't need as much of it. K is something in between, in stability in soil and use by the plants. So that is why a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer is really a good all-purpose fertilizer around the garden.Or That is what they say.

BUT most tomato growers/expert think otherwise. Tomato plants need more N early in the season to develop healthy and strong foliage but then it should get on with its mission, that it, flowering and growing fruits. Hah !

So then the 3-1-2 ratio becomes excessively rich in N and weak in P and K. So what do you do now ? The answer could be : SWITCH TO A DIFFERENT FERTILIZER !

Let us look at some tomato fertilizers : How about Tomato Tone : It has like 3-4-7 analysis. or close to 1-1-2 ratio.

How about Texas Tomato Food ? It has a listed 3.8 - 3.1- 7 analysis, which is pretty close to 1-1-2 ratio. BINGO. But that is good for container and hydroponic growing.

What if your garden soil already has some P and K ? That is most often is the case with most established garden soils and raised beds. This is why it is a good practice to get a soil test, once a couple of years to determine what is lacking and what is in abundant.

So then there is no clear answer and solution here. No wonder even some university extensions are not unanimous on this issue.

Sey

Everybody has his own preference and choices when it comes to tomato fertilizer. There are organic purist, Synthetic believers and a hybrid of those.

I consider myself a hybrid. The reasons I don't use organic fertilizer are 2:

1- they are tooo costly.

2- As far as the plants are concerned , it make no or little difference where that NPK comes from, JMO.

MY BREW:

I get the following :

1- MG liquid 12 - 4 - 8

2- Alaska MoreBloom 0-10-10

I mixed them 50/50. So the mix becomes 6- 7 - 9. If I mix them 35/65 I will get : 4 - 8 - 12 ; That is a 1-2-3 ratio. This ratio is more desirable (me thinks) during the fruiting period that we don't want to grow too much foliage.

Conversely, very early in the season I might just use MG 12-4-8 to promote a good foliage structure.

It is your garden and you are the boss and decision maker.

Sey

I like the Miracle Grow Shake and Feed for tomatoes with micronutrients and calcium .. It's a 9-4-12 ratio and I've had great results with it especially in container gardening. The other thing about organic, is that with a soiless mix, organic is not the best option from what I know. There are a couple of other brands that I use in conjunction such as McInnes and another one that is made in Canada. For a water soluble, again I tend to use the MG for tomatoes which is 18-18-21.

Thanks Sharon

One thing I have noticed about the fertilizers targeted for tomato growing is that they have Calcium and Magnesium beside NPK. Otherwise they all have different NPK ratios. That is very relevant when you are growing in soil less medium and/or hydroponically. In most established garden soil chances are that there is enough Calcium and Magnesium.

SOIL TEST.

Having said the above, a soil test can be very useful. Then you apply what is lacking instead of shooting in the dark. Most soil tests results, that I have read here over the years, indicated that there is enough P . The reason appears to be due to the fact that plants uptake much less of it than N and K. The second reason is that P is attached to the soil and won't leach out as N and K.

There are other crucial trace elements that plant need and can benefit from, such as Boron, Zinc , Manganese, Sulfur and Iron. Only a soil test can show a good picture.

BTW: Next week I am going to take samples for analysis.

Sey

You are right, Ed.

I have nothing against organic gardening in general and the use of organic fertilizers in particular. To me their number one draw back is high cost.

But I do use a lot of organic matter like: manures, composts, pine bark fine.

Sey

As sey says...organics are expensive but there is another factor too. Since organic ferts have to break down before the plant can use the nutrients...it takes time. Sometimes it takes quite a bit of time. I do use Tomato tone on occasion. It seems to be a quality product.

Ed, n that case , as you mention, then you have to apply organic ferts like now or very early in the season. Sounds like adding lime to acid soil.

Sey

WELL GENTLEMEN I use rabbit manure, put down in fall with my crushed leaves ,coffee grounds, let worms all winter eat and poop, by spring,ready to plant,this summer had 11 ft tall tom plants loaded to top one had 81 toms weight for all was a little over 83 lbs, oh i do use rabbit tea mixed with molasses,2 table spoons of fish fert 2 4 1 RABBIT MANURE I THINK NUMBER ONE TOM FERT OF ALL BY FAR

I would agree it is good stuff assuming proper handling and composting. But that is only if you can get it. Rabbit manure is hardly readily available to all so other options are required that are more available. Count your blessings.

Dave

molasses, for garden ? That sound too fancy to me. LOL

But I'll take rabbit manure, if available. Not very many rabbit farms around here.

Sey