Will Brought in an expert and he verified the triv plague. It has horizontal growth and when it gets tall, it falls over showing brown under-growth. Actually pretty in the early spring when its short (beware) It grew unbelievably fast and the expert said if I didn't act quickly and decidedly I would have to contact a golf course to use one of their greens mowers. So it was 2 rounds of Roundup at least 18" past the known edge of the triv. Used my power rake to pull up the dead turf. That was almost a mistake because the viney triv kept wrapping around the spindle. It worked out OK because I had a perfectly contoured base for replanting. I live by Michigan State University and they have a wealth of "Green" info. We prefer to use "Spartan Grade A". Its a Kentucky Blue mix with some drought resistant/ winter resistant strains. Works for us Yankees here. Good luck Mark

Even if you had a top of the line digital camera, you probably aren't going to get a positive ID from an birds-eye-view photo. Pretty much all the grassy weeds look alike from a distance - especially when mowed. The distinguishing characteristics are in the fine leaf details, root structure and seed heads. Any, the generic answer is going to be pretty much the same.... you have a grassy weed and you probably won't find an herbicide to selective kill it in rye. You can try one of the products labeled "crabgrass killer" - just be sure to check that it is safe on rye - but I wouldn't get your hopes up. In general, most grass weeds are pretty tough to get our of a cool season turf. You will probably end up having to dig them out or roundup the spots at the end of the season and reseed.

>>Regarding Iron: As so many blenders use inexpensive iron oxide or oxysulfate as their iron source, typically granular iron is a waste of money Unfortunately many fertilizer products have these ineffective iron sources added so we pay for it and move on! If you're looking for color from Iron, consider the foliar applied liquids or look for granular products containing iron sulfate, iron sucrate, or iron humate. The sources of nutrients including Fe are always on the label, so check it out and see what's being added. Tru dat. Although iron oxide can be useful if you're looking at the very long-term, you're not going to get much immediate green-up. If any. Iron oxide is most available in very acidic conditions, which shouldn't describe our lawns. I do like Milorganite. The source is iron sulfate and iron chloride (one of the few times I don't mind a chloride, although I can't say I'm completely happy with it). It even seems to work on moderately alkaline lawns, and at 4% it's a pretty good hit of iron (which is, after all, a trace element). There isn't a thing wrong with foliar iron applications, and I keep iron sulfate and ammonium sulfate on-hand for just that purpose. With my slightly gimpy shoulder (ah, advancing age), it really only gets done once per year at this point, at the end of the growth season. It keeps the lawn dark green all winter. I don't generally recommend most chelated sources of iron unless pH is in an appropriate range for them--generally 7.0 to 7.7, depending on the chelate. Above that, they're much less effective. Below that, they're really spendy when a standard source would do just as well.

Thanks for commenting Dchall - You're not far off... especially from where i was when i laid the sod 5 years ago and installed the sprinklers. Nowadays in winter and spring i water once a week for 20 mins per zone. Last year (prior to finding this forum) i was watering in the hotter/dryer season 4 days a week for 15. As far as feeding and etc. get ready to throw up, i've been using scotts weed and feed, the yellow bag and the all purpose scotts grass insecticide in the orange bag. Go easy on me, i really had no idea that i didn't know how to take care of a lawn until i started reading this forum.