"Plants need to be fed" Boy, I wish I had a dime for every time I've heard that statement! And it is not particularly accurate :-) Plants manufacture their own food - that's what the process of photosynthesis does. What they DO need is access to basic nutrients to facilitate this process and depending on current soil conditions, those nutrients may very likely already be present. Remember that no one is out there in the wilds and natural areas applying fertilizer and the plants grow just fine! It is never a good idea to apply fertilizer without at least a basic soil test to determine what, if anything, may be missing or deficient. The application of fertilizer unnecessarily may cause more problems than it it solves. Gratuitous applications of fertilizer just "because" or in the mistaken belief that plants must be "fed" are fabrications of the fertilizer industry. In most cases, other than containerized plants, harvested edibles and annuals, woody plants seldom need additional fertilizer. And often the application of a good organic mulch will adequately supplement what might be required. Plants will generally tell you if they require nutrient supplementation - growth will be slow or stunted, foliage discolored or small and flowering or fruiting light. If that is the case, have a professional soil test done to determine what may be amiss. And if new to the area or gardening in general, a baseline soil test is a good idea to get you on the right track. Once you've determined that any nutrient deficiency exists, THEN you can fertilize to address that need. But fertilizing just for the belief that it is the proper thing to do is not an acceptable horticultural practice and can lead to problems. Plants that are over fertilized tend to be less cold and drought tolerant, more disease prone and overly susceptible to insect predation. btw, lots of lawn fertilizers contain phosphorus, but in relatively low percentages. Phosphorus is still an essential plant nutrient and may not be present in adequate levels in all soils, especially those with recent construction or other disturbance or removal of native topsoil. Here is a link that might be useful: the perils of over-fertilization

If you are going to mock organic lawn care, at least get the treatment right. Borax is what is use on creeping charlie. If you are going to use herbicides to control this weed, the most effective time is in fall when it is storing energy. In spring or summer, it is likely going to take multiple applications. A good strategy this time of year is 2 applications 2 weeks apart. Then, follow up with some hand weeding to take out the stragglers. You still may end up spot spraying to control it all summer.

I saw your pix on the lawn forum. I tried something this year that worked for some of my weeds. It is a three part process so it might not work for a large lawn, but here it is. I had oxalis in full shade. 1. Sprayed with soapy sugary water as a sticking agent. 1 tsp of dish soap and 2 ounces of molasses to a quart of water. 2. Dusted the wet leaves with baking soda and allowed it to dry. Load a sock with baking soda and tap the side to let the dust fall out onto the weed. It does no damage to the sock so you can use any sock. 3. Sprayed with strong vinegar. Even in full shade the oxalis melted away. Here are the pictures. My apologies for the picture quality. I set up the tripod and did not realize how bad they would look until it was done. The target weed is on the left side of the tree trunk. In the first one I had done steps 1 and 2 the previous day with no ill effect. Second one was taken immediately after spraying with vinegar. You can see the foaming on the leaves. Third was taken after 5 minutes. You can see the yellow flower petals wilting a little. The rest of the leaves were doing the same but you can't really tell. Fourth was taken at 30 minutes. Wilt is evident. This one was taken an hour later. The plant has wilted away just like I would expect on a hot, sunny day. Here's the first one again for direct before and after comparison. Again, this was in full shade (north side of tree) on a day in the high 60s.

A lot is going to depend on the actual site conditions. All we know is citrus at this point. A typical side yard these days in places where citrus grows is often about 12 feet between houses with a drainage depression in the middle. Yes your plantings can be exposed to any neighbors chemical use depending on countless factors including who is spraying or spreading what. These chemicals can drift on the wind, move through the soil and on the surface with water. Human and pet traffic can spread chemicals from where they were put. There is no magnetic force that glues them in place. The good news is, any contamination to what you grow isn't likely to be any worse than the industrial food supply we already consume.