It's possible I guess but given all the other stress and environmental factors your plants have had to deal with - in your other posts - I wouldn't jump to that conclusion just yet. The odds simply don't favor a disease when so many stress factors are in play. Especially not in container plants in potting mix as it is a soil fungi.

Why not do the test for it? Cut off those stems and slice them open. If it is FW all the signs will be there. And they don't need to remain on the plant for any reason anyway. ;)

Dave

Dave,
Sorry this is a newbie question, but how will I know when I cut it open.
My plants are in a raised bed with a organic dirt blend that I had brought in last year, and ammended this year with some compost blend

Picture of my 4 tomato plants

Sorry - thought you had already read all about FW since you had decided that's what it is. ;) The test for it is described in most articles about it.

A lengthwise cut on the stem will show numerous brown and black lines running in all directions, and it emits a strong nasty smell.

Dave

ltog:
They are definetly stressed, Can't get a good look at the soil...... looks real clumpy which won't drain well.
could be looking at a dark colored mulch that I hope is covering the plant.
Holding water in the soil will result in the lower branches to drown..first .......then a pathway to the upper reaches via the main stem..not good.

As Dave mentions wilt is possible for various reasons, stress leads to weakness in the cell structure I might venture.

I had this exact same trouble 2-3 years ago.......
i doubt it is Fusarium Wilt, even tho I thinnk you are in one of the only zones it is really bad.

I almost convinced myself it was FW, but I had tilled down and into the native soil the year previous.

I believe the pathogens and nastys need air and light to be active and I suppose that a wound of some type to the roots would also be an avenue.

Next season I really would look for a quality compost in bulk. I know,it's pricy at 30.00 for two big "bobcat" scoops at the recycle center- brush drop offs, fits in a half ton pickup, .....worth it.

Turn it in to all of the stuff you laid down, so the whole area is slightly mounded so the water runs through and off.

Either that or excavate down.... but in iether case don't disturb the native soil,..... and fill it with a couple of loads.. In effect a large raised bed.

I am a newbie this year but this does not look like FW to me the branch in the photo looks broken.......is that possible. Have you used any fertilizer lately?

Dusty

Here is a link that might be useful: my pool container garden

I cut the lower branches off and cut them open, they were green, no lines, and no strong smell...so maybe it's not Fusarium wilt.

What should I do now?
Fertilize? Did this about a month ago with a 4-5-3 fertilizer
Soil Drench?
Foliar Feed? Did this about a week ago
Up the water?
Epsom Salt?

I trimmed off all the lower branches around the tomatoes, washing my trimmers in between each plant.

We have been having some funky weather with the averages the last 2-3 weeks about 78degrees.

I called the company that I ordered my soil from and they said I got 80% compost 20%sand

This is what I amended my soil with before planting out this year;
"blend of composted fir bark and forest humus fortified with
15% chicken manure, worm castings, bat guano and kelp
meal. pH balanced with dolomite and oyster shell lime. An all
purpose pre-fertilized planting and garden soil amendment.
Excels as a nutrient rich top dressing and mulch"

I know I am probably over thinking and worrying, about this, but I just want this years crop to be as good as last years.

ltog:
I would guess a certified organic entrepenuer could be trusted that the calculations to arrive at ph balancing and correct ratio of NPK are correct and will remain that way after being sealed up and shipped around in varying temps.

My point is why would you use it. You could probably build your soil cheaper using the same properties. Correctly composted browns and greens are truly organic in Nature and do not need additions............but I digress.

I would do nothing more, let them grow on thier own for right now......

Once the soil has dried out totally----- to where you poke the soil w/ your finger down two knuckles.........drench w/ fish emulsion and seaweed extract.. at least a gallon of combined, diluted medicen per plant............

Find a source of compost containing ONLY heat treated greens and browns...........buy a soil test kit for PH and NPK.

The soil in your garden and the compost you add to it should be between 6-7 PH and off the charts in NPK......

Cover the soil around your plants (4 ft diameter) with as much of the compost as you can obtain,..... right up around the stems of the tomatoes as far as you like. Preferrably before the drench.

Mulch with anything you can that will cool the root zone, keep out weeds and prevent the plant from any contact with the soil, including splash back.

Compost is not the same nor does it afford the benefits of a good mulch.

There you Go ;) Hope I helped,

Tom

I think you have an iron deficiency. Yellow leaves with green veins sure point in that direction. Reducing the soil pH will help. And, sticking a few plain nails into the soil close to the plants may help too. There are some fertilizers with 3-4% water soluble iron in them, but you don't want to over-fertilize your tomatoes, so be careful.

Sorry, but I think all the above guesses are wrong, and since we garden in the same city, I'm willing to bet on it. Any takers? :)
I used to think my tomatoes got verticillium wilt (not fusarium) a lot, but as the seasons have passed I think most of it has been nematodes and only a few really had verticillium. I'm willing to bet when you pull up your plant the roots will have knots all over them.

There's nothing you can do to cure the problem for either V or N, your tomato will either power through it, or not. I would just leave it alone, unless there's something you want to grow instead right now in that space.

My tomato list over the years has been culled by plants which can't deal with nematodes (i.e. almost none of the paste tomatoes can, Opalka, etc.) Hopefully Goose Creek is one that just keeps producing despite knotted roots.

The only thing that DOES seem to help is a thick layer of mulch (straw, grass, etc.) to keep the soil cooler. Cool soil seems to slow the little buggers down.

Below is the UC Davis website so you can look at photos of all 3 problems, and compare.

Carla in Sac

Here is a link that might be useful: UC Davis tomato problems