I'll add another possibility. My Calvert (not a weeper) has done this a couple of years now. The problem is that I had it too wet (I believe) and the growth was long, thin and weak. Does your plant show a lot of signs of mosaic stress as well? Water availability seems to be indicated by the distance between growth nodes on fig branches (at least that's what I'm going on) and thin nodeless branches are more likely to act as you've described than thicker, noded branches. Try potting in a more airy planting mix next year and trim off most (or all if you're brave) of the thin weak growth. Leave at least 1/4th of the current growth points as you do this (and choose strong buds or ones closest to the main stem). My Calvert is doing better this year (after doing much of what I described above) but I plan on cutting off the rest of the weak growth before new growth next year. ~Chills

First off, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask. And this one is far from stupid, because lots of people are confused by it. The reason you haven't found a clear-cut answer is that there isn't one. Generally speaking, days-to-maturity are counted from the time of transplant. But don't take those numbers too seriously as anything but a relative indicator. There are an incredible number of variables than affect maturation dates. What you really want to use them for is comparisons. If one variety is, say, 65 days and another is 90 you know that the first will come in earlier. And the second may or may not have enough time under your conditions. But don't count on mature fruits from the first in exactly 65 days, as they could mature earlier or later.

Not a stupid question, just a newbie question - don't forget that we have all been newbies. There is a big difference between ignorance (which can be cured) and stupidity (which is to the bone). When you make up the jars to put in the BWB, it is best to make a count before hand of how jars many will fit. If you are making pints of pickles, for example, fill only the x number of jars that will fit into your BWB pot. Don't fill any more jars. Leave the rest on low in the brine pot if the veggies are heated with the brine, or leave the brine on low and don't add the veggies if you are doing veggies that will get covered with the hot brine until you are ready for more jars to be filled, then bring back to the boiling point. If you go only a little over, say with pickles, then you can NOT put them in the BWB but just put lids on and let them cool and then put them in refrig to be used soon. After you have made up a few batches of whatever you are canning, make a note on your recipe for how many pounds, cups, or whatever, you started up with to fill how many jars and of what size you ended up with. That way, next batch or next year, you can better judge how much fruit or veggies you need to process for each batch. There are lots of variables of course, like some years tomatoes are juicy and some not so for the same weight, so making tomato juice one year may not make as many jars as last year, or more jars, but close anyway. Nancy

Hi Maria...no questions are stupid!...I thought it was an excellent question and learned more myself by your asking it....Maybe your friend can give you a piece of the root from her Peony if its large enough?...I have been wondering if a peony must be completely dug up and the entire root "divided", or if a piece of the root can simply be cut off from the mother plant, and the rest left in place undisturbed?...I am still learning how the main root/rhizome of peonies grow and spread and how deep they go, etc...I am assuming they tend to crawl along just under the surface of the soil(is this correct?..or do they dive deep?)....Take care all!...GardenLove