Mine are doing about the same. However I have 2 small still green tomatoes. One is Cherokee Purple, and the other is Black Cherry.

Sophie's Choice has done well, the others are all struggling to set fruit. The plants themselves look great because they were in a low tunnel until a couple of weeks ago, but once they outgrew that I had to take the plastic away, and now I don't think I've got anything approaching decent fruit set on most of the vines.

Sophie's Choice has really done well, if the fruit tastes good I will probably make it my workhorse variety in the future.

I'm happy to report that mine are doing great. Early Girl and Roma have good size fruits with Early Girl starting turning lighter green. Multiply clusters of fruits. Most plants have 3 flowering trusses so far. I'm at 500' outside of Black Diamond in a clearing in the woods, so not really prime tomato location in these cool woods.

I spent extra time hardening them off this year and was almost ready to plant when it turned cooler again mid-May. Instead of planting I put them in my car parked in the sunshine. That gave them a chance to bask a bit and put on more growth before they were planted out.

We planted deeply at an angle just after Memorial Day in prepped soil covered with perforated red plastic mulch and cages all set up. Watered in with warm water. Covered each plant with a bottomless milk or vinegar plastic jug. Surrounded cages with plastic, but open at the top. Also set jugs of warm water all around the plants.

Watered again with warm water the 2nd evening with some the morning of the 3rd day. Temps weren't as warm as I'd had hoped since then, but even with our overnight lows around 48 they're doing fine. I've since removed the milk jug covers. I've also pulled back some of the plastic surrounds where plants were touching it. My source of the clearish bags were from starbucks used coffee ground pick up and I cut the bottoms off.

Quite a stash out there to clean up when I'm all done, but it's worked!

More details on the thread below.

Here is a link that might be useful: planting tomatoes thread on Northwestern Gardening forum

We live SE of Seattle and about 600' elevation. Trees to the East and West shade all of our garden until mid May when the sun gets higher. Then shade moves across it as the sun moves east to west.
We decided to try grafted tomatoes in tubs in an area that has full sun at this time. I made PVC frames that supply support and are mini green houses. We filled tubs with potting soil and placed children's swim rings, filled with water, on top and planted the tomatoes in the center hole. That will help hold heat until after dark. We bought large clear plastic bags and put them over the frame with vents in the top that can be opened during the day and closed at night.
This was the first year we have tried this. We had the plants inside and should have been outside a couple of weeks earlier but the frames weren't ready. They were root bond when we transplanted them a couple of week ago which probably slowed them a little. They have doubled in size. Some will need the frames extended soon. It is 3' now from the soil to the frame with the vents.
Grafted tomatoes can be planted in the same soil. No three year rotation. At the end of the year we will put the lids on the tubs and stack them aside for next year. The frames are not glued. They come apart like tinker toys and will be stored for next year.
The frames

Bob & Berne,

This is a really great set up! I do have one concern, you need at least 25 gallons of soil for grafted tomatoes to do the best. Are the containers large enough?

Ron

Here is a link that might be useful: Ezra's organics planting for best performance

I'm in the Greater Seattle area and mine seem to be doing fine. I started them in trays in my greenhouse about April 1st, and moved them up to 4" pots, and then to gallons. By June 1st they were about 3' tall. I planted them out in trenches in raised beds, so they ended up about 2' above the soil line. Right now they have all gotten bushy and are about 4' high. I have fruit growing on at least a third of them...good progress for the Pacific NW. It looks like the rest will set fruit any day now. I'm hoping for a bumper crop for the first time in a couple of years.

Just transplanted mine into a bigger container today. It was overdue, but I had them under lights until today. My strongest Tomato, which is an Heirloom sauce tomato, has its first flower on it. I might pinch it because I heard you should do that.

I have 15 plants/15 varieties. No tomatoes and half have no blossoms as well. The Yamal tomato is the lone exception with several tomatoes and a hundred+ flowers. Anyone out there in tomatoland grown the Yamal?

I hadn't heard of Yamal. But I looked it up. The information from Tatianas is below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Yamal from Tatiana's Tomato Base

Thanks Difigart
Sounds like a nice early/smaller tomato. Got the seeds as a bonus,I believe, from Remy of Sample seeds. She is great about tossing in a few surprises.

Jim

My plants are all strong, but little in the way of flowering for many of them, much less fruiting.

I've got a couple of tiny (pea-sized) fruits on... I think it was my stupice plant (I stupidly forgot to note down which plant was which -- whoops). I've got a couple of golf ball-sized fruits on my black price plant.

All in all, I'd say my tomatoes are doing slightly better than last year. This year, I've got the whole bed with potatoes and squash covered with black bio plastic.

I am picking ripe ones. (Sun Gold, Glacier and Willamette) I have 2-4 foot plants among the other plants and a lot of fruit set on every one of them including my Brandywine.

I think we have great conditions here with a little work. The one thing in our favor is that we can get fruit through most of the summer since temps don't generally exceed the limit for tomatoes. You just have to baby them earlier, protect from frost and gather as much heat to them in the spring as you can.

I do the trifecta in the spring with 1. early planting (mid April), 2. early tomatoes mixed in the with rest and 3. cover until about the first of July. I just do PVC hoops stuck in the ground or extended with a little rebar and plastic clipped on with huge office clips. I plant tomatoes in a block so I can use one large plastic on all of them. I open the ends of the "hoophouse" in the daytime so they get some air. It is usually about 10+ degrees warmer for my tomatoes through spring with this method.

I also have some tomatoes that I planted out mid May or so with no cover. These guys are sticks! I bought a grafted Cherokee Purple and put it among them. The plant is the best looking one of the bunch, twice as large, green and leafy with some flowers. I had to see how it would do. If I get a grafted plant another year I'll have to protect my investment.

On the bright side, my lettuce, peas, broccoli, radishes and beet greens have been awesome!

Mine are also terrible. I even bought a 6th plant just to see if it would do better but it also is spindly looking. I've thought it was due to too much water, too little water, the soil, the cool temperatures but other things are doing well. Any suggestions?
Markey
Bremerton

amy - great going to be picking ripe ones already!

turned on soakers last Friday as the sun has come to western WA (yes, this late)
counted 15 tomatoes this morning with Oregon Spring light green & going to be 1st tomatoes to ripen

markey - So many variables to what creates spindly tomatoes I'm not sure what to suggest. Perhaps, post a new thread with pics & details about size of containers or in ground, watering, fertilizing, soil conditioning, etc. In our climate though we can't compare growth with the hotter locations.

Are tomatoes are doing well, my wife ate a few sungolds last week and more of them are coming soon. Jet Stars have a lot of fruit and more coming, they may actually have ripe fruit before Stupices this summer. The largest fruit on the Jet Stars are probably 3 1/2 - 4" right now. We tried a Moskavich this year it has a couple of small fruit maybe 1 1/4".

I have one spot that is ideal for tomatoes with lots of thermal mass and southern exposure so that sure helps. We set the plants out May 22nd and covered them with growguard on the chillier nights - anything less than 45 degrees.

I got a late start and didn't start my seeds until April 22nd. I now have 25 plants/17 varieties planted in the ground, and they're all currently between 18-24" tall and flowering. I added a few inches of compost to the mix in the planting beds in early May and covered them with black plastic to warm the soil. (Next year I'll probably do this in March or April since our spring was a bit warmer.) On June 3rd I transplanted 6-9" tall seedlings into the beds, adding Hendrikus Organics Start Right in the planting holes and spreading Dr. Earth fertilizer around each plant. The beds were covered with hoop houses with small openings on each end for air flow, and I kept the white plastic on until July 5th. Two Sungolds and one Kimberley have several fruit set, and the other tomatoes have lots of open blooms that will, hopefully, set fruit in the next week or two.

I even had one fruit set on a 15" tall Kimberley seedling in a 2" cell because I have about 20 seedlings left in my trays on the back porch, and I can't bring myself to throw them away as long as they still look healthy. I ended up squeezing in the last three Kimberleys in a few sunny spots in the yard, and I'm looking for space to plant another Gogosha, White Queen, and Porkchop. I already gave away dozens of plants, even forcing some friends to take even more New Big Dwarf and Vorlon plants, so I don't keep planting. I may take the remaining plants to a P-Patch.

The Sungolds are only a week behind compared to last year even though I transplanted about two weeks later than last year. This year definitely looks more promising than last year.

I picked the 1st ripe Early Girl tomato & Sun Gold yesterday.

This is a pic from 7/19 of the Early Girls. Two fruits had been on since early May, so took a long time to ripen until the end, a result of our slow warm up to summer.

I'm inland, so it's hot here. I've had fruit on most plants for months, but they have only sulked and stayed green, except on the Sungold. The plants themselves are monsters and huge, except my Brandywine. Some plants were direct planted in May, but my Celebrities and Romas are all volunteers that are full grown at this point.

Sungold has been producing for all of July, and I've had hundreds of ripe ones from one plant.

I have really poor fruit set on my Brandywine, but somehow had one ripe tomato yesterday.

I had my first Green Zebra tomato ripen today. Dozens more on the plant ready to go any day.

Celebrity and Romas are lightening up... Assuming the weather cooperates, they should start ripening up soon!

The PNW has lots of micro climates. Even a couple of miles can make a big difference. Here in Bellingham, north of Seattle, my tomatoes are just sad. While they have nice dark green leaves, and the determinates are bushy, they are all about 1/2 size, and only a few yellow blossoms. Just too cold and wet! A friend of mine between Lynden and Sumas has wonderful tomatoes; some are the same types as mine. I tried a number of cool and short season tomatoes, but they just aren't happy this year.

I'm still eating just the early ones. On a bright note my Brandywine is just loaded this year. If I get any ripe fruit and they are true to taste I will save the seeds. I rarely plant Brandywine since I have never had more than 3-6 tomatoes per plant. There must be a couple dozen or more on this plant, amazing.

Speaking of micro climates I have two garden plots. My house is at 800 feet elevation and everything there is always later. I have a community garden plot in the valley with what seems a much faster kick start every season. I grow most of my tomatoes there.