Hi Cassidi, Your money tree is quite impressive, especially with you living in a dry climate like Colorado. Drooping leaves can sometimes be attributed to a root bound plant, meaning that the roots are choking each other and making it hard for the plant to get the air and water it needs. When was the last time you repotted your money tree? Misting will help with the browning on the tips. The average home is dryer than the sahara desert, mostly because of AC and frequent cool air movement. In the garden shop I work at we had a money tree doing the same browning and dropping of leaves as you described. Misting helped quite a bit. The black spots could be a bacterial problem. Did they show up after the plant started looking sad or before? If after, then they came because the plant was in a weakened state. If before, then the bacteria might be the source of the problems. Do the black spots turn into the little holes in your plant? If its bacteria then the only way you can control it is to pull all the leaves infected and throw them away. Also the cleaning mentioned above might help. I recommend letting the soil dry out between waterings. This allows the roots to breathe and would be a good recovery tactic if your plant is root bound. Also be sure to fertilize your plant with a slow release (preferably organic) fertilizer. This will allow the plant to take the nutrition it needs and not burn the plant like some liquid fertilizers can. Well, I hope I helped. Good luck on your Pachira's recovery. Sincerely, Roselyn Small

I think you'll find the answer posted in your duplicate post just a bit further down the page. Happy Gardening. Dave

I would guess that you are fighting Septoria. Early Blight, Bacterial Speck, and Bacterial Spot would all cause spots on the fruit. Septoria hardly ever affects the fruit. Also, Septoria spots have the yellowing around them and they do start small but then grow larger as well as melding together as more spots appear. And Septoria will eventually defoliate the plant if not brought under control, which can be difficult to do once it gets a good start. As far as what to do, it sounds very much like you are already doing as much as you can. The two most effective treatments are to remove infected leaves as soon as you see them, even leaves that only have a couple of small spots, and spray with Daconil. When spraying, make sure that you get the undersides of the leaves thoroughly covered with the spray. Septoria grows and spreads most rapidly in damp conditions, so anything you can do to keep the foliage dry and avoid handling the plants when they are wet will help too. Cleaning up all the aboveground plant parts at the end of the season and disposing of them in the trash (landfill) will help to keep the Septoria from carrying over to next year's plants. It won't be a 100% guarantee by any means but it will help keep the disease from getting a running start.

Try unplugging and replugging in the connector for it a couple of times. Also check the end of the connector where is plugs into the ice maker. Are there actually ice cubes in the ice maker itself, (IE, not the tray)? If so, try removing the ice, let it refill and see if it drops the ice. The ice maker in my Jenn-air fridge died after about 5 years. It uses a heater to heat the cubes slightly, just before it drops the cubes, if the heater is burned out, (mine was), it can't drop the cubes as the motor that runs the gizmo that actually removes the cubes is not strong enough to remove them unless they are "slightly softened" by that heater. I just replaced the whole ice maker, it was about $135 on the Jenn-air website, also I did see some on Ebay for about $90, but decided best to spend the extra money to be sure I got the correct one and a good one. Good luck with yours! Gary