Karyn, I have some cuttings rooting now. I will put 1 aside for you. Linda

lay a piece on the ground from the live plant and use a "U" pin (I cut them from hangers) to secure it in the soil and let it root. Can take a long time, maybe a season. To get it rooting a bit faster you can try carefully knicking the back of the vine, adding the smallest touch of rooting hormone and then pinning it. The key is not to cover the vine you pinned to the ground with soil, just let it sit there but it can't move around. Likes to be medium moist - not soggy, not bone dry. We do this at our church garden and it takes about 3-4 months to get some good transplanting roots, from there it takes another 6 months to get a "plant". GGG

I'm no expert, but perhaps you can use a technique I used to propagate a climbing rose that was a favorite of my dearly departed mother. If you can find a branch(es) low and near the ground, find a leaf node or bud several inches back from the tip. Pinch the leaves off or slightly "injure" the area at the leaf node by gently scraping away some of the outer bark tissue on one side of the stem(be careful not to sever the stem)(perhaps you could apply some rooting hormone to the injured area as well). Then simply make a trough in the soil near the node and bury that section of the stem in the ground (perhaps around 2 inches deep or so), cover with good soil, water, and then place something heavy (like a brick or medium stone) over the buried stem to hold it in place under the surface. Put a marker of some kind or a ribbon on the exposed upper portion of the stem so you don't mow it or hit it with the weedwhacker. Hopefully, the tip will continue to grow and roots will form around the injured part of the plant that is buried. At some point (I'm not sure now long it will take), lightly and carefully excavate around the area that is buried to inspect for roots and if there are enough there, cut the stem below the roots and transplant into a pot with good soil or directly into it's new permanent location.

Patriotizm, I scanned this from one of my gardening books. I've never done this on any coral honeysuckles because I've always had something in front of them. I do it to Passionflower all of the time. Hope this helps jolana Vine-Pruning Primer If you've purchased a container-grown vineÂstandard nursery fare these daysÂno pruning is mandatory at planting time, especially with evergreen vines. But heading back, which will encourage new growth, may be a good idea if your plant has long, spindly shoots with few leaves or only a single stem. Bare-root plants should be headed back by no more than a quarter before they are planted to allow the vine to balance its growth below and above ground. Be sure to cut out any damaged or dead roots and stems, or stems that have minds of their own and appear determined to grow into the neighbor's yard rather than up your trellis. The guidelines for pruning mature vines are similar to those for pruning deciduous shrubs. Species grown for their foliage can be pruned throughout the garden season, but early spring before leaves appear puts the least stress on the plant. Vines that flower in summer and fall on the current year's growth, such as honeysuckles (Lonicera), should be pruned in late winter or early spring. That schedule gives the plant time to produce new shoots and flowers. Prune vines that flower early in the garden season on shoots produced the previous yearÂjasmines (Jasminum) and Wisteria are twoÂimmediately after their flowers fade. Most hardy vines fall into this category. Except...like all general rules, there are exceptions, the most important of which concerns vines that produce ornamental or edible fruits. Even if postflowering pruning is called for, wait until spring, or the fruit crop will be lost. When you prune, be sure to do the following: Cut to healthy wood if removing dead, diseased, or damaged growth. Cut back to a lateral shoot or bud. Cut to a bud or stem that is pointing in the direction you want the vine to go. Cut cleanly and don't leave a stub, which is an invitation to bugs and diseases. Pruning mature vines can be difficult, because their long stems become tangled. Don't be tempted to yank. Instead, prune one stem section at a time until you've cut out all you want to remove. Lonicera, honeysuckle. Prune Henry's honeysuckle (Lonicera henryi), trumpet honeysuckle (L. sempervirens), woodbine (L. periclymenum), and trumpet honeysuckle cultivars (L. x brownii) in late winter to early spring to control growth; remove weak shoots; head back long stems. Renew old vines by cutting a third of oldest stems to the ground. Japanese honeysuckle (L. japonica) and its cultivars are extremely invasive and not recommended.