Here is one potential problem that jumps at at me: "it doesn't get that hot in it as it is still cool out. I come home and they are shriveling up and dying." You need a couple of thermometers in there and closer monitoring plus some sort of vents and fans. On average with the sun out it will be 25-35 degrees hotter inside the greenhouse than the air temps is outside. That is why all greenhouse type set ups have to have auto ventilation systems with good, moving air circulation inside. So if it is 60 degrees outside it can easily be 85-90 or more inside and that is lethal for seedlings. Plus it is dry stagnant air. That alone quickly dries mix and shrivels up seedlings. Second thing: "I used a mix of half soilless/seeds starting mix. They germinated inconsistently because once I took them off the mat (as the first couple started germinating), I can never seem to get the balance right with the soil moisture, and things start dying, and the rest don't germinate. I refuse to use the only soil-less mix, as many articles tell you is so perfect for seedlings." The flip side of over-watering is soil mix that doesn't drain well. That is why using a soil-less mix is recommended. Because it DOES drain well. Mix it up with other stuff and it can create a 'cook the roots' situation. But honestly I thin - based on the info so far - the real problem is the environment in your GH. It needs to be modified for better air circulation and cooling if you can't be there to monitor the plants. Post some pictures of your greenhouse and I can help you with specific suggestions. Dave

I start seedlings under cool fluorescents, which I keep ideally no more than 1-2" above the leaves. Since the tubes are cool, leaves which touch them do not burn, so it's fine that sometimes the leaves are up there with the tubes. I have no experience with other lighting, so I can't help you there. If there's too much distance between the lighting and the leaves, the seedlings will stretch to be closer to the light. That's not a good thing. The only problem I've had with that has been when the seeds have sprouted and the stems are already stretched before I get them under the lights. I don't know why your tomato seedlings would be growing sideways ... unless perhaps the root systems aren't strong. Since tomatoes will root anywhere on the stem, I'd think it's not a problem -- as long as the stem begins growing upright at some point. As far as legginess goes: what is the distance between the base of the stem (i.e. where it comes out of the ground) and the dicotyledons (the first two leaves that come out of the seed)?

I grew San Marzanos the past few years and found that many died before planting, only to have MOST die at planting. Perhaps start more to end up with an adult. Two years ago, I grew San Marzano and although the flavor was unreal, the fruit size was tiny and the overall yield was saddening. Last year, I had 2 plants in my garden (San Marzano 2 died but I had SM Redorte) and the BER was bad, although Redorte flavor was good. I'm still taking blame since I crammed my tomatoes together and failed to add calcium to the soil. This year, I'm trying SM 3. I haven't killed any seedlings - yet - knock on wood.

Tomato leaf roll as you are seeing is a physical response of the plant to some sort of stress, usually moisture related. It is possible that this particular plant has more underdeveloped roots so needs watering more frequently rather than "dry significantly between watering". Providing consistent soil moisture levels is the goal, not taking the plant from one extreme to the other. Another possibility, but impossible to diagnose without actually examining the plant, is the presence of pests. Specially look for aphids, fungus gnats, or spider mites. Dave