greetings! There are different schools of thought on fertilizers. But most agree to NOT fertilize when they are going dormant, or anytime during dormancy. I don't usually fertilize until plants are growing well. That's usually sometime in June for me. And there doesn't seem to be any real evidence that a high middle number (P) helps with blooming. Plumerias will bloom when the branch growths are mature enough and when the plant has enough resources (good root system, beefy limbs, etc.) to expend energy on inflos. Also, you don't really want a super-high Nitrogen fert either as the plant may grow too much soft leafy growth instead of blooming. Now, some do advocate using a source of Magnesium (like Epsom salts) to give the plant a boost in preparation for dormancy and then again in Spring? I may have that wrong so hopefully Bill with comment.

Here is a picture of some of the die-off. What looks like a dead stem on the left hand side is actually a stick I've used for staking. On second thought, maybe that's not a good idea in the future as they are likely to carry diseases?

Like MTO, I am not a container expert by any means, but I have grown some plants in containers, so here is some additoinal information: Container plants will need watering more often than tomatoes in the ground, probably daily or more often in times of high temperatures. Dig down with your finger about 3-4", is the growing medium wet, dry, or just right? If it is wet, don't water, if dry then water. If it is just right, check again the next day. If the medium is very dry, normal watering may have no effect on it, the water will just run off the top and down the sides of the container then out the drainage hole(s). In that case a slower delivery method is needed to allow the growing medium to absorb the water. That is the principle behind those glass watering globes you see advertised. You can slow the delivery down by taking a large plastic container (a gallon milk jug, or even a 2-liter bottle, you'd just have to repeat more with a smaller container) and make a very small hole in the bottom so that it just drips and place it in your planter and fill it up. Repeat as needed until the growing medium is thoroughly moistened throughout the container. Mulching the top of your container with compost, straw, hay, rotted leaves, grass clippings, even shredded paper or sheets of paper or cardboard helps maintain a consistent moisture level. Plants that are grown in any kind of container will need feeding more often than plants that are grown in the ground because each time they are watered, the water run off carries away vital nutrients. Many container growers will use a dilute solution of a liquid fertilizer every week or two depending on the condition of the plant. You can get more information on growing in containers over in the container forum. Betsy Here is a link that might be useful: Container Gardening Forum

ajsmama - I know right! I have to break out the ladder if I want to do anything with them. Drew51 - Wow! All of that looks good, so what you are doing works! I doubt I will ever get that ambitious, but that is a spread to aspire to. Daniel_NY - I trimmed branches and leaves near the bottom but I doubt it is 18" from the soil. They are also mulched to stop some of the soil splashing up. It is cypress mulch and I have heard the lecture, so you can save the keystrokes. : ) I read where someone here rotated between copper fungicide, neem oil, and serenade on a weekly basis. I couldn't find the serenade, so I started rotating the copper and neem when I transplanted. Once the plants got so big and was going through the copper and neem, I stopped. I haven't used either in 6+ weeks. The plant in the pic is the Mortgage Lifter that I have not cut out the yellow so I could post the problem here. The Lemon Boy was the one where I cut the yellow out and sprayed with copper and about a week after that with neem, but it steadily yellowed and died. I believe I was still spraying weekly at that point. I just watered for the first month since the potting mix had compost (and peat and coir-peat), then in May I fertilized with a full dose of MG 10-10-10 weekly. When fruit started to set in late May I switched to MG Tomato Food 27-27-27 weekly. I used MG since I had the 10-10-10 on hand and it was something that I was familiar with. I may use organics next season. I didn't weigh any of the fruit so I do not know how many pounds per plant, but I have ate myself silly, have about 12 pints frozen and have given lots away to several family, friends, and neighbors.