Is it really okay to just bury the peat pots?
cdprop
12 years ago
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terrybull
12 years agodigdirt2
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Earthworms in bottomless 15 gal pots okay?
Comments (9)Thanks for the comments, folks. I do want to point out that these 15 gal containers would be buried in the ground up to the rim. So we are talking about a cylinder space about 17" ht and 14" diameter, though open at the bottom. My concern is that once the earthworms enter from the bottom, they don't get constrained in this space and can find a way out back from the bottom. Do earthworms have vertical range or just mostly horizontal range? Also, the soil around the pots is hard clay. I don't think earthworms like such a soil and are likely to get attracted to the softer fir bark based medium in the buried pots, possibly causing overpopulation. Any, ill effects on plants from such an overpopulation? Thanks....See Morepaper pots vs peat pots
Comments (4)I used the paper pots I made out of newspaper for starting all my annuals this year. It worked okay. The only problem I found is that they had a tendency to dry out quickly. Next year I will not keep them out in the sun as long each day as I did this year....See MoreRoot-pruning/pot size for 'buried' container figs?
Comments (14)Quick return to this thread (I'm trying to get in a flurry of replies, been short on time): Al, you said As far as root-pruning goes, you will likely only undertake it every 3-4 years. Those plants that you have buried will be easy. Depot, saw the bottom 1/3 - 1/2 of the roots off, clean the roots & prune the fat ones. Then - right back in same container. You will likely see a diminished crop in years that you root-prune, but subsequent crops should be greater as a result of improved vitality. Does this mean, though, that as Herman had mentioned, whenever I root-prune yearly to unclog the bottom of the container, that I'll have a diminished crop from the pruning? it didn't sound like that was everyone's experience necessarily, so I want to understand the relationship between the degree of pruning and the lack of productivity, when it sounds like it might be the inverse from some of Herman's recommends. Also, with my figs being so young, I'll just mention that I don't need a saw, only a scissors to prune them at this point! (on a tangential note, I ended up pruning more than roots last night, when de-potting one of my figs: I found a rather large, slightly-slumbering arachnid of a copper-red shade lurking in the roots as I untangled them with my fingers - ICK! the scissors came in handy, rapidly, and now shredded spider parts are a component of that last batch of soil 8-p ) Again, from Al: With regard to your soil choice: A plant that is grown in a container that is not in contact with the soil will benefit more from the gritty mix than those you sink, container & all, in the ground. The reason is simple: there will be no perched water table in the containers that are in the ground. The surrounding soil will act as a giant wick & drain the water. So are you saying that ones being sunk into the dirt will have more wicking action and need a *more* moisture-retentive soil mix used? and that the ones above ground will need the better aeration qualities to avoid a PWC making the bottom portion of the container too soggy for roots to colonize effectively? just trying to clarify my understanding (I do appreciate having grasped the entire PWC concept, that's helped me strategize how I re-pot and mix my soil combos). And a flag to Herman, I don't know if you saw my query? (see above in the thread): Herman, do you trim your container figs to any particular size or shape? (Some of mine were pruned to single stem by the nursery; some seem to grow upright with less branching as a natural habit, others want to branch a *lot*.) I have quite a few single-stem cuttings that are little (24" or less) and have hardly any branchings - I don't want to pinch out the top growing tip on these this spring to make them branch, do I? this is an area I'm not familiar with, is how to prune and *when*, to encourage the fruit. I checked the archives in this forum and saw things about pinching back growing tips, but how big do you let the figs get first before touching them? Thanks for help, everyone! (still looking for Leon to chime back in about his grandfather's fig and any pruning that might've been done when unearthing it in the spring) Sherry (counting down with 15+ figs to re-pot)...See MorePeat Pots for Tomatoes
Comments (57)Josh, you should see what clear-cut logging has done to our creeks! When I was a kid, they ran clear and full of fish. Now they're just torrents of mud when it rains. But, tree farming is just like any other crop - plant it and harvest it. The tree huggers don't understand that there's nothing special about woodlands - it's just another crop. it just takes 30 years longer to harvest than cotton. As for organic - my grandparents rotated the kitchen garden between three hog pens. Each year, hogs were in one, the garden was in another and one was left fallow. The following year, Pa-Pa put the hogs where the garden had been and they ate everything - insect larvae, weed seeds, nothing left but stinky mud full of hog s... which also fertilized the plot. And he planted the garden in the fallow pen, etc etc. It was 100% organic - by economic necessity. It produced enough vegetables for the table, but the hog poop really din't provide sufficient nutrient for good yields. The corn was always sort of yellowish and kinda spindly and squash leaves were small with fewer squash than we get now. My chemically-fertilized vegetables are 100 times better looking and higher yielding than any of his ever were - but they may not taste as good, being forced with nitrogen, and maybe not as healthy either. But who cares - that's what spices and vitamin pills are for! :-) Jack...See Moredirtguy50 SW MO z6a
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