It's unlikely the test kits were even reasonably accurate, so I wouldn't assume you have a high P potting mix. Even if it were, it would be temporary as potting mixes just don't hold onto nutrients very long. In other words I wouldn't worry about the readings. The 14-14-14 will be fine as will the 15-30-15. Between the 2 I would prefer the 14-14-14 and would return the 15-30-15 to the store if that's an option. On these forums we sometimes spend a lot of time talking about what the ideal is and how to get as close to it as possible. This doesn't mean that things won't do well with something less than the ideal. I think the 14-14-14 will do fine for your plants. Maybe exchange the 15-30-15 for a MG 24-8-16 and you can use that if the time release stuff isn't providing enough nutrients for the veggies. You are likely fine for a season on the calcium because the potting mixes you are using are limed already. If you really want more calcium you could simply scratch in some gypsum and it will release calcium over time. This wouldn't change the pH.

I would definitely advise filling it NOW. I have two rather large raised beds for growing vegetables and I filled them with Dynodirt from Denton county and donkey manure (of which I have an endless supply)!! I did add a small amount of sand to the Dynodirt and each fall I add more donkey manure to turn under. I cannot offer any advice on bagged soil, and I should think that would be pretty pricey.

> Probably the most important rule about fertilizing is to never feed a tree that is under stress. The causes of stress are many, ranging from over watering or under watering to newly pruned roots or disease. > Once again, it is so very important to know what type of tree your bonsai is. Different types have specific needs as to the type and frequency of fertilization. > Many enthusiasts who have some experience think the safest method, with no fuss, is 4 month type of 14-14-14 time release fertilizer, such as Osmocote. This is incorporated right into the potting mix or sprinkled on the surface and worked down into the mix. > Most broadleaf trees and tropicals can be fed with any general houseplant or garden fertilizer. > Conifers, azaleas and certain others can benefit from a monthly application of an acidic fertilizer, such as MirAcid. > Some growers include hormones such as Superthrive in their regimen to stimulate root production. > Trees should only be fertilized when in periods of active growth. This is generally from midspring through early summer and from late summer to early fall. > If your summers are extremely hot and your trees are outdoors, do not fertilize until temperatures have moderated and growth has resumed. > Likewise, do not feed trees in winter when they are either dormant or growth has slowed down. > Some growers prefer organic fertilizers over chemicals. This is an ongoing debate and much too lengthy to go into detail here.

What kind of soil do you have? Most of what I saw on my short visit to Cape Cod was sand and raised beds on sand tend to drain too quickly. Start with a good reliable soil test (a basic soil test from UMASS is $15.00) for soil pH and major nutrient levels. These simple soil tests may also be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Once you know more about the soil you have then you can make a more intelligent decision about whether raised beds might be needed. kimmq is kimmsr