Hi Msgirl: I love your honesty .. I looked up El Catala on HMF, and I broke out laughing when I saw 3' in height .. translate to a slow & wimpy rose. Heirloom Roses is notorious for small root & slow start. Now they raise the price to $27 per band !! If the root is big & solid, then it flowers sooner (roses from Weeks & star are grafted on Dr. Huey, see below). http://scvrs.homestead.com/Rootstock.html I got roses from Heirloom Roses as own-roots and their roots were like alfalfa-sprout, instead of big & long & woody like Dr. Huey. High Country Roses in Colorado sells BIGGER own-roots at $14 per band (they ship to Hawaii). I got Austin roses from them with blooms on !! About Dr. Huey rootstock: They are native to alkaline region, thus most healthy in alkaline clay. Dr. Huey itself tends to mildew, so high potassium helps. If your soil is acidic, then raise the pH with lime to above neutral. Lime will supply calcium besides raising soil pH. Decades ago my neighbor bought a bunch of grafted-roses-on-Dr.Huey, he planted in our rock-hard clay at 7.7, and they were blooming like mad & zero diseases. I was jealous since I had just moved from an ACIDIC clay region, and gave up on roses due to black spots. Since Dr. Huey is a woody-root, calcium should be supplied at 1/2 of potassium. Calcium is what makes plant tissue firm, thus more resistant to pests like thrips, mites, and aphids. When nitrogen is supplied via chemical, the quick burst of growth makes plant tissue softer, more susceptible to pests. I have been growing tomato for 30 years, and the only 2 years with big-fat tomato worms, plus blossom-end-rot were the years I used chemical fertilizer 10-10-10. Other years with ORGANIC slow-released nitrogen like manure, cocoa mulch, alfalfa .. no worms, no blossom-end-rot, since those ORGANIC sources supply low-nitrogen, decent potassium & calcium & trace elements.

Hello I just came across this thread and decided to sign up to leave a comment. If the original poster is still around... I'm pretty sure that the Manga Blanca of Cuba is the Turpentine mango. So you may want to check into that. ...Edit... I just did a little research and saw that The Manga Amarilla is actually the Turpentine and that Manga Blanca may be known as Apple Mango or Bombay. Here's the link... https://books.google.com/books?id=UmkPAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA35&lpg=PA35&dq=manga+blanca+turpentine&source=bl&ots=qlpDrGvzA6&sig=AU4MYTojK048RPHozPBnG7sr3F0&hl=en&sa=X&ei=pTedVdzbGsuwyAS37KvoCA&ved=0CB8Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=manga%20blanca%20turpentine&f=false

From those photos of the leaves I'd say there was a Magnesium and Potassium deficiency. It's usually better to get your soil tested to find out what's needed. A general fertiliser won't fix the problem if there's an imbalance of minerals in the soil. Also the pH of soil can affect the uptake of minerals. With a lot of rain Potassium can be leached from the soil quite rapidly so often there is a shortage of it.

Thanks greatly appreciate all the help. Also, I added more pictures with the imgur link and more details about the situation. The tree was already there when I bought the house. The tree is full grown and The house is 70 years old. I assume tree was planted when the house was built. Also, I was using citrus avocado and mango fertilizer, bayer advanced disease control, and neem oil extract. The reason I use this products on the tree because a worker at home-depot recommend me to use them. Lastly Someone from a different forum inform me my mango tree has Colletotrichum gleosporioides (anthracnose) to contact your County extension for help. I think he right about the Colletotrichum gleosporioides (anthracnose) after looking the pictures on the report. Check links below for pictures and reports. https://imgur.com/gallery/GcGtrHA https://www.mango.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Anthracnose_Mangos_Final_Report_Eng.pdf https://ufdcimages.uflib.ufl.edu/IR/00/00/28/58/00001/VH04800.pdf